steeda X2 balljoints....?

[aggie97]

So, my new shocks are too short to use my Racecraft drop spindles and I am having to go back to the stock spindles. I'd like to install the Steeda X2 ball joints to help level the LCA in the front, however, at $189....I say fuck steeda.


I remember reading 6 or 7 years ago that there was a Dodge D150 joint that worked....or another Ball joint that was nearly identical to the Steeda unit...and cost like $10. Steeda mentions that the X2 has been proven in Crown Vic platforms for years.....might it be a Crown Vic part?

I have searched the web, including corner-carvers for the answer and found nothing. Anyone else have any input?

Thanks!

[Grape]

they are getting them from these guys. www.howeracing.com not to mention you can change the pin length in .100" increments.

[aggie97]

How was next on my list. This is a bandaid till I can build new lower arms

[slowyellow]

I've been looking at some of these to correct my front suspension geometry. But I just read somewhere that installing them lowers the car 1/2 inch. I can't afford that, is that true?? OP, sorry for hi-jacking.

Oh, and the car is an 04 cobra with cut stock springs.

[aggie97]

I've been looking at some of these to correct my front suspension geometry. But I just read somewhere that installing them lowers the car 1/2 inch. I can't afford that, is that true?? OP, sorry for hi-jacking.

Oh, and the car is an 04 cobra with cut stock springs.

They will lower the car...however, they come with "spacers" to put under the coil spring in the "cup" of the a-arm. If you have coilovers, there is no change.

[CYAZ06]

They will lower the car...however, they come with "spacers" to put under the coil spring in the "cup" of the a-arm. If you have coilovers, there is no change.

Sounds like he has stock springs...that are cut. So no dice.

[slowyellow]

Sounds like he has stock springs...that are cut. So no dice.

Yes, they are cut stockers. Car rides great, and the stance is awesome. Mainly a street car, just wanted to correct the suspension geometry if it wasn't going to be too big of a deal.

[Long Stroke]

Hey guys, let me clear up a couple things in this thread.

First off to the OP, the ball joints are not 189.95, they are $136.45.

Second www.howeracing.com does NOT manufacture Steeda's X2 ball joints or any of our ball joints/parts for that matter. We have them made by an OEM supplier that supplies a ton of ball joints to the OEM's.

Scott

[big_tiger]

Hey guys, let me clear up a couple things in this thread.

First off to the OP, the ball joints are not 189.95, they are $136.45.

Second www.howeracing.com does NOT manufacture Steeda's X2 ball joints or any of our ball joints/parts for that matter. We have them made by an OEM supplier that supplies a ton of ball joints to the OEM's.

Scott

I really don't know where the suspension geometry gets off by lowering. So I dont understand why using the ball joints corrects it?

[Long Stroke]

No sense in typing it up twice, Big Tiger here is your answer.

When a Mustang is lowered, the front roll center changes due to the new position of the suspension pivot points. Lower the car too much and the front roll center drops to well below ground level, and worse than that, the roll center moves side to side as the body rolls, resulting in lost grip and erratic handling. The lower roll center causes the body to roll more easily. Countering this tendency usually requires a significant increase in front spring rate to simply control the added roll due to the lowered the roll center. This higher spring rate not only hurts ride quality, but it also reduces grip on rough surfaces, as the stiffer springs cause the tire to skip over bumps instead of following the contours of the road. The X2 balljoint was designed to eliminate these problems by correcting the front roll center geometry. The X2 balljoint has a longer shaft, to raise the spindle relative to the balljoint pivot point. Spacers for the springs are included in the X2 kit to maintain the same ride height as a stock balljoint, but with a much improved roll center height. With the roll center restored to the proper height, smaller front swaybars and softer springs can be used. The result is a suspension that works for you to accommodate the small and large imperfections that are in any road or track, allowing the tires to stay planted on the ground where they belong.

[aggie97]

Hey guys, let me clear up a couple things in this thread.

First off to the OP, the ball joints are not 189.95, they are $136.45.

Second www.howeracing.com does NOT manufacture Steeda's X2 ball joints or any of our ball joints/parts for that matter. We have them made by an OEM supplier that supplies a ton of ball joints to the OEM's.

Scott

Still too much. obviously you work for steeda so do they sell them without the spacers for less? I have coilovers and don't need the spacers. $70 for a ball joint is stupid. shouldn't be more than $25 ea.

Maybe I'll find some dirt track parts at smiley's for $9?

[Long Stroke]

Sorry to hear your disapointment. We only run 1000 ball joints at time verse an OEM ball joint that has much larger runs. They supply 50K to a couple 100K worth of cars. The more you make the deeper the deal. We can't compete with that, but we do offer a ball joint that will correct front roll center and has proven itself time and time again.

Best of luck to you.

[Snatch Napkin]

When I was trying to fix my bumpsteer issues several years ago, I had read that the Cobra ball joint was a band aid fix for lowered fox bodies. They did look a little different, but it has been too long to recall exactly what was different. It helped, but my bumpsteer kit was far better.

I can't seem to find anything to corroborate what I've said, but I do recall reading it, getting them from my parts house, and putting them on. LOL!

The bumpsteer kit was simply 2 heim joints, spacers, washers, shouldered grade 8 bolts, and lock nuts. I had to drill my spindles to accept the shouldered bolt, getting rid of the taper.

[Lone Sailor]

After I lowered my LX for better corner handling it actually handled worse than it was in stock form. Then I did ball joints, bump steer, and CC plates all in one swing. Not only was I finally able to get the car aligned within acceptable camber degree that I wanted, but it also quit tramilining and handled awesome. Granted, this wasn't a track car, but I put in through the ringer pretty good and it held it's own. I used Moog ball joints, Steeda bump steer, and MM CC plates.

[aggie97]

Trust me, I have more than paid my share to play. this car is arguably one of the fastest American Iron cars in the country. Just tired of spending money on it to fix little issues due to parts incompatibility.

anyway, beware of the bumpsteer kits. while they help with the tramlining on the street, they are really unstable under hard cornering and certainly under braking. If the bump steer stack is longer than about 2", the bolt and steering knuckle/spindle flex so much you get a heavy vibration in the steering wheel. I ended up shortening my stack which was over 4" long, and saying the hell with bumpsteer as it actually creates ackerman while cornering and effectively turns the inside wheel more. Sucks on really bumpy tracks sometimes but you get over it. for most street uses they should be fine....but on a dedicated road course/track car I would keep it to a minimum.