Battle Box Install

[Mach1]

CMC Mustang Battle box install to finish the torque boxes for the poor mans 3 link, PM3L.

This kit is the ebay special SMR branded one, it may have been worth the money for the real deal because the angled spacers for the upper plates were too big, with a helping hand it would have been a non issue.

This was a huge pain in the ass without having another person, I would have prob saved 3 hrs with some help (someone in the car while I was under it, etc).

The sound deadener wasn't too bad with the heat gun and scraper, it just came right up for the most part.

I Installed the lower plates tight and drilled 3 holes up, and the last hole down from inside the car after test fitting the top plate, the copperweld was awesome but quite expensive and overkill for the inside of the car. Welding all of the plates was also a bitch because of the gap between the plate and some of the contours of the car, I used a sheet metal screw to tighten up the gap if it was too big.

[Mach1]

[Mach1]

[Mach1]

[KBScobravert]

Having done this now, how easy would it be to cut OUT the upper control arm boxes? I think I want the extra room to snake my exhaust over the axle.

MM Torque arm and lower control arms plus PHB.

[Mach1]

Having done this now, how easy would it be to cut OUT the upper control arm boxes? I think I want the extra room to snake my exhaust over the axle.

MM Torque arm and lower control arms plus PHB.

drill the spot welds and you are ready to rock

[KBScobravert]

drill the spot welds and you are ready to rock

That is what I am thinking. I figure I will pick up a handful of those bits since I heard the cheap ones that a hobbyist like me would buy don't last too long and the pro ones are very expensive.

What kind of welder did you use? Is there a inexpensive 110v mig out there that would handle that job?

I need to have a car party at the house this trip home and divide up the labor. I have tons to do and only 2 days to work on it.

I really want to get the undercarriage stripped from the transmission back and clean, then paint it a light gray like POR15 Hardnose. I want a slick gloss finish that is easy to clean, resists chemicals, and won't scratch chip easily.

[Mach1]

That is what I am thinking. I figure I will pick up a handful of those bits since I heard the cheap ones that a hobbyist like me would buy don't last too long and the pro ones are very expensive.

What kind of welder did you use? Is there a inexpensive 110v mig out there that would handle that job?

I need to have a car party at the house this trip home and divide up the labor. I have tons to do and only 2 days to work on it.

I really want to get the undercarriage stripped from the transmission back and clean, then paint it a light gray like POR15 Hardnose. I want a slick gloss finish that is easy to clean, resists chemicals, and won't scratch chip easily.

I am using a miller 180 with .023 wire and gas. A hobart 140 should work just fine, I would use gas vs flux core wire.

[Chas_svo]

I am using a miller 180 with .023 wire and gas. A hobart 140 should work just fine, I would use gas vs flux core wire.

Generally Keith the 110v welders don't make enough heat to weld a lot of things. 220v is the way to go. I've never been able to get a nice weld out of the flux core welder I have, but you are more than welcome to take it and try, if you don't feel you can get the 220v outlet and welder. I also have a new helmet. I can weld, but hate welding on other people's stuff because I never think the welds are good enough, and I damn sure am not Brooks or a real welder.

You are right in the spot weld bits. Buy the good ones. Nothing saved on the cheap ones I've tried.

[Pokulski-Blatz]

Subscribing.

[Mach1]

Generally Keith the 110v welders don't make enough heat to weld a lot of things. 220v is the way to go. I've never been able to get a nice weld out of the flux core welder I have, but you are more than welcome to take it and try, if you don't feel you can get the 220v outlet and welder. I also have a new helmet. I can weld, but hate welding on other people's stuff because I never think the welds are good enough, and I damn sure am not Brooks or a real welder.

You are right in the spot weld bits. Buy the good ones. Nothing saved on the cheap ones I've tried.

Agreed, a 110v machine should be fine for the thin stuff, tq boxes, etc. But it's not much more coin for a 220 machine, I would go with a 220.

[Chas_svo]

Agreed, a 110v machine should be fine for the thin stuff, tq boxes, etc. But it's not much more coin for a 220 machine, I would go with a 220.

Oh, and your stuff looks good. I've never used that coppershield, but DuPont used to make some pre-weld spray that was the stuff. It was about $17 a can though.

[aggie97]

It is about time they allowed this mod in CMC. it has been illegal for years.