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First time on a lathe this weekend.

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  • First time on a lathe this weekend.

    Nothing too cool here, just spent some time on my FIL's lathe. Convinced I need one now

    First I took some AN fittings and converted them to o-ring (milled off the flare and added a radius to the front. I also bored all the -6 to -8 fittings out to the -8 size (there is no -6 in my system, but the end of the fuel logs and the regulator take -6 fittings.


    Next I tackled the fuel rails for my ls-coupe. The way the stock rails work has the fuel coming in on one side of the crossover, then it goes to each rail and is dead-headed there. I took the ends off of each rail and tapped them for -6 fittings, then I took the crossover off and made plugs to cap it off.
    Stock rails:

    Stock rail with ends removed (it is .9" diameter)

    Drilled/tapped rail ends (setup for my bored out -6 fittings above)

    Here are the plugs for where the crossover used to enter the rails:

    Here is what the plugs look like installed in the rails with the factory hold down.

    Next I needed a plug to go where the factory egr valve was

    Here you can see it lined up with the factory egr valve:

    Here it is installed in the manifold

  • #2
    Last thing was taking the factory oil pressure sending unit, sawing off the electronics (then breaking the rest out with a screw-driver), then drilling/tapping the fitting for 1/8NPT fitting for my autometer gauge:

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    • #3
      Nice work man but you only get a 8/10 for no picture of the mill or machinery.
      Fuck you. We're going to Costco.

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      • #4
        it's an OLD lathe and let me just say, tolerances??? HHAAA! I stopped using the dials pretty soon in as they were useless, I'd just put the caliper on everything after each cut.

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        • #5
          Good job, that's exactly what I was talking about.

          Tolerances? Psssht.. you just have to know the machinery.

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          • #6
            I cant believe you didnt just get a fitting instead of breaking up the op sender lol, however, the way you improvised is cool.
            Ring and pinion specialist

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            • #7
              Originally posted by turbostang View Post
              Good job, that's exactly what I was talking about.

              Tolerances? Psssht.. you just have to know the machinery.
              must be, cause this thing was crazy, i'd do the math, dial it up, make the cut, and it was nowhere even close. it's crazy that there is enough meat there to make the i.d. of a -6 equal to a -8. in retrospect i might have been able to just tap the ends of my rails for -8, but im not 100% sure and i'd have to modify the end caps.

              Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
              I cant believe you didnt just get a fitting instead of breaking up the op sender lol, however, the way you improvised is cool.
              , trying to save money and learn some skills at the same time, i think they want like $17 for that metric fitting. the factory sender has no use in my application so I figured I'd hack it up and see if I could use it. Gotta decide if I am going to buy a fitting for the water temperature fitting in the passenger head or if I am going to try to machine something.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                must be, cause this thing was crazy, i'd do the math, dial it up, make the cut, and it was nowhere even close.
                Insert prolly needs a little bigger edge radius. Looks good, and I'm sure it will work.

                +1 on pics of machinery.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by redfiveohconv View Post
                  Insert prolly needs a little bigger edge radius. Looks good, and I'm sure it will work.

                  +1 on pics of machinery.
                  I'll get some pics of machinery soon. I am not sure if you are being sarcastic about the radius, I tried to radius them as much as possible, any more and I'd have shortened the fittings. Sometimes my internet sarcasm meter is broken though.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                    I'll get some pics of machinery soon. I am not sure if you are being sarcastic about the radius, I tried to radius them as much as possible, any more and I'd have shortened the fittings. Sometimes my internet sarcasm meter is broken though.
                    No, by edge radius he means the edge of the insert/cutter you are using.

                    Personaly, I dont' agree with that statement (we all do stuff different)...but a bigger edge radius on the cutter means more tool deflection and makes it harder to hold tolerances.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                      No, by edge radius he means the edge of the insert/cutter you are using.

                      Personaly, I dont' agree with that statement (we all do stuff different)...but a bigger edge radius on the cutter means more tool deflection and makes it harder to hold tolerances.
                      He was just making a fitting work, so no tolerances is what I assumed. I was talking about a little bigger radius on the insert yes, but for the finish. I like shiny smooth finish, lol. Just my .02

                      U a machinist turbo?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by redfiveohconv View Post
                        He was just making a fitting work, so no tolerances is what I assumed. I was talking about a little bigger radius on the insert yes, but for the finish. I like shiny smooth finish, lol. Just my .02

                        U a machinist turbo?
                        Not any more, but I did it for 12 years. Now, I just do it for whatever my fab job calls for. Some lathe work, some mill work - soon to be CNC lathe work and mill work.

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