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Harbor Freight - Too good to be true?

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  • #16
    I wouldn't use mine (it's a cheapo HF clicker) to build an engine or something else that had to be dead on, but it is fine for other less-critical things.
    "It is in truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that we are fighting, but for freedom - for that alone, which no honest man gives up but with life itself."

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    • #17
      Pass/fail thread


      The problem with HF is that some of their stuff is decent, and some of it is horrid. But you never know which is which, till you buy it and try it. So what if we made a thread where we posted our HF purchases with a PASS or FAIL grade? After awhile we could check this thread and see what's...
      07 f250-family truckster
      08 Denali -baby hauler
      52 f1-rust bucket
      05 Jeep tj. Buggy
      livin the double-wide dream

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      • #18
        Originally posted by whitetrash View Post
        great thread

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        • #19
          I used an SK one for years, several times a day. No clue how accurate it was but I didn't have any comebacks. Half the price of the Snap On version. The same wrench is $280 at Grainger now though!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Cooter View Post
            get a "Precision Instruments" brand wrench or a "CDI" brand wrench

            You should be able to get a brand new one in your $150 price rance.

            CDI has made Snap-On's torque wrenches for decades. I toured their facility in CA and took their factory training out there. Precision Instruments is usually easier to find than an actual CDI labeled wrench.

            The ONLY difference is the ratchet head, but it's really a cosmetic difference.

            I used to sell and calibrate mechanical and hydraulic torque equipment
            Good info! Thanks...

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            • #21
              I've never had problems with HF tools.
              "Yeeeeehhhhhaaaaawwwww that's my jam"

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              • #22
                one key thing to remember is don't leave it set on a torque when not in use. I always return mine to zero before putting it away. Mine isn't a HF, I use a Snap-on one but I have had craftsman and others as well. Tools will last longer if taken care of and stored properly.
                same one I have but mine is the older model without the rubber on the grip.

                I recondition headlights on most cars for $50.00. If interested shoot me a pm.

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                • #23
                  That is good to know, thanks.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Country cracker View Post
                    I've never had problems with HF tools.
                    As long as you don't drill with it (bit) or hit it (chisels) my experience everything else will do the job.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by HECDOGGIE View Post
                      I also purchased a $199.99 ( original cost ) Compressor, 1.8 HP / 150 PSI / 17 Gallon OPEN BOX for $ 75.00 !!
                      I could not pass it up .. Hopefully it works well with an Impact and DA -
                      Not likely to work well. DA's take a lot of air volume, you just don't have that with that small of a tank. Impact will be good for a short burst, very short.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Thehead View Post
                        one key thing to remember is don't leave it set on a torque when not in use. I always return mine to zero before putting it away. Mine isn't a HF, I use a Snap-on one but I have had craftsman and others as well. Tools will last longer if taken care of and stored properly.
                        same one I have but mine is the older model without the rubber on the grip.
                        http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
                        Snap-On recommends leaving them set at 20% of max torque. If you completely decompress the spring and the wrench gets bumped/dropped/etc. it can cause problems.

                        The TQR style with the thumb dial can be stored at any percentage of torque value with zero issue. They are also the best at holding accuracy vs. the handle screw style.
                        http://www.truthcontest.com/entries/...iversal-truth/

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                        • #27
                          also, the best thing to do with a cheap torque wrench is to click it out 5-10 times before you start relying on its accuracy.

                          accuracy jumps up big time after you do this... the first few cold clicks are pretty erratic on cheap wrenches
                          http://www.truthcontest.com/entries/...iversal-truth/

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                          • #28
                            I got a CDI wrench for around $150 on Amazon. It's awesome and great for setting proper torque on my wheels for track events. It even came with a calibration testing sheet.
                            Ford
                            GM
                            Toyota
                            VAG

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                            • #29
                              I bought an agle grinder from HF, and It broke the first use. It doesn't stop spinning even when im off the trigger.
                              sigpic

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Cooter View Post
                                Snap-On recommends leaving them set at 20% of max torque. If you completely decompress the spring and the wrench gets bumped/dropped/etc. it can cause problems.

                                The TQR style with the thumb dial can be stored at any percentage of torque value with zero issue. They are also the best at holding accuracy vs. the handle screw style.
                                Mine is the dial style

                                I recondition headlights on most cars for $50.00. If interested shoot me a pm.

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