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Old 11-17-2019, 08:12 AM   #1
inline 6
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Default Best way to get a line out on modern sound systems?

I just picked up a new truck (2019 Silverado) and its the first vehicle I have ever owned that I DO NOT want to remove the factory head unit. Its far too integrated with the rest of the truck to even flirt with removing. It has the factory BOSE stereo which is blah but whatever. I can deal with that but I need more bass. SO.... I was considering building a box for a pair of slim subs for under the rear seat, I already have a good amp I would like to use but I don't have a way to get a good line out for it. The internet is all over the place on what to do. Its obvious that I need some sort of signal processor to get a good clean line out but what?

Is anyone here still fooling around with this stuff and in the loop?
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:49 AM   #2
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Get a line out converter and hook it into an existing speaker. It’s what I did on my mustang, way easier than pulling the headunit.
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Old 11-17-2019, 10:44 AM   #3
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Get a line out converter and hook it into an existing speaker. Itís what I did on my mustang, way easier than pulling the headunit.
Those produce terrible quality line outs in my experience. I'm looking for the quality of signal that one could expect from a higher end head unit.

I've been looking at JL audio FIX 86 but I'm not sure how to integrate it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:27 PM   #4
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https://pac-audio.com/2018/09/21/adv...s-with-most50/

It's not cheap, but far less expensive than yanking the factory stuff and replacing it with all new components.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:57 AM   #5
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https://pac-audio.com/2018/09/21/adv...s-with-most50/

It's not cheap, but far less expensive than yanking the factory stuff and replacing it with all new components.
I don't think you can really do that anymore. Well you can but the replacement head unit needs to be able to communicate with the network, meaning it needs the calibration codes from the factory one and meet the exact same electrical load.

For newer Harleys there are aftermarket tuners that update the firmware and give you the ability to adjust the equalization. I'd imagine someone is working on the same thing for GM if HP Tuners doesn't already have something.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:38 PM   #6
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Curious to see how the aftermarket head unit industry adapts. To being pretty much cut out.
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:46 AM   #7
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I've been looking at JL audio FIX 86 but I'm not sure how to integrate it.

The JL stuff is top notch. I run the TWK 88 in my system (with aftermarket head unit). The TUN software is really detailed/complicated at first, but it allows a ton of capability once you get to playing with it.

It looks like the FIX 86 takes the speaker wire output from the factory head unit and then converts it to RCA. I'm not sure if there's a good place to grab those wires, or if you'd have to pull the head unit to get to them (most likely). There might be some kind of vehicle-specific adapter that could keep everything clean, so you're not just cutting wires. Times like these, I really wish EW was still in the business. You could always call JL directly and have them give you good info.

I know that if I were upgrading stuff and keeping a factory head unit, I would absolutely go with the JL offerings to make that happen.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:10 AM   #8
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I am. I picked up the FIX 86, the dual knob for it I'm looking for any cyber monday coupons I can before I order a JL HD 1200/1 amp and a pair of JL Tw5v2 subs.


I found a place online that sells a T harness to get the fix 86 plugged in.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:15 AM   #9
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Whatever you do, don't just slap those subs in any ol' box just because it fits behind/under the seat in your truck. Make sure the air space matches the specs on the subs. Better yet, see if you can find a Stealthbox for your truck. It will fit perfectly and be built exactly to spec. I used to run a Stealthbox with a 13tw5 in my truck, and it sounded great, but I still needed more, so now I run a pair of 12w7s in a custom center console.
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Old 12-02-2019, 07:00 PM   #10
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Whatever you do, don't just slap those subs in any ol' box just because it fits behind/under the seat in your truck. Make sure the air space matches the specs on the subs. Better yet, see if you can find a Stealthbox for your truck. It will fit perfectly and be built exactly to spec. I used to run a Stealthbox with a 13tw5 in my truck, and it sounded great, but I still needed more, so now I run a pair of 12w7s in a custom center console.
I will not, I build my own boxes. I enjoy it too much to let someone else do it.

With a pair of the 13 Tw5v2 subs do you think that's enough? I don't want competition level bass but I do want plenty of it. This shit aint cheap so what do you think a reasonable level of expectation is for a pair of those with a 1200w amp is in a good box? Mind you they are only to be installed in a sealed box and this would be down firing.

I don't want to drop another 2k for the subs and amp only to be "meh" when I get it done.
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Old 12-03-2019, 07:19 AM   #11
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I will not, I build my own boxes. I enjoy it too much to let someone else do it.

With a pair of the 13 Tw5v2 subs do you think that's enough? I don't want competition level bass but I do want plenty of it. This shit aint cheap so what do you think a reasonable level of expectation is for a pair of those with a 1200w amp is in a good box? Mind you they are only to be installed in a sealed box and this would be down firing.

I don't want to drop another 2k for the subs and amp only to be "meh" when I get it done.
Those are great subs and thatís plenty of power. If you build the box to JLís specs, I know youíll get great sound quality, and the output should be more than enough for most sane people. Far better than ďmehĒ. Even with the one I had in the Stealth box on 600 watts, the output was good, but Iím a recovering bass head whose previous system had two Type R 15s ported, so I wanted more. Iím definitely way more into SQ now, and two sealed 12w7s on 750 watts each is my happy medium. If youíre looking for something that fits under or behind the seats, I donít think you can beat what you have planned.
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Old 12-08-2019, 09:32 AM   #12
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Those are great subs and thatís plenty of power. If you build the box to JLís specs, I know youíll get great sound quality, and the output should be more than enough for most sane people. Far better than ďmehĒ. Even with the one I had in the Stealth box on 600 watts, the output was good, but Iím a recovering bass head whose previous system had two Type R 15s ported, so I wanted more. Iím definitely way more into SQ now, and two sealed 12w7s on 750 watts each is my happy medium. If youíre looking for something that fits under or behind the seats, I donít think you can beat what you have planned.
Newb question. Why do they offer the same sub in 2 ohm, and 4 ohm? Why would you want to double the resistance? Seems the obvious choice would be the 2 ohm. I probably knew this once, but since I go 5 years at a time without even considering car audio, I must have forgotten. Every once in awhile I'll research a half decent system for the car I'm driving, and have it installed somewhere. Then I don't look at car audio again until I get another car.
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Old 12-08-2019, 10:00 AM   #13
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do people not use Crutchfield anymore? it's the easiest solution
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Old 12-08-2019, 01:42 PM   #14
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So who here is good at building quality, integrated sub enclosures versus a lot of stereo stores universal "box" thats just strapped down in the trunk? I've been planning for several years to have a well designed enclosure built that integrates into the upper portion of the trunk in my Grand National but I haven't found anyone yet. I don't want the universal ghetto box tossed into the trunk..I want something that looks good and sounds GOOD...not boomy. My plan was to use 2 matching 10" subs along with my Linear 2202IQ. Already have separate Alpine amps running Boston Acoustics separates up front and a good set of Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck..just need some good low end to finish it out.
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:25 PM   #15
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Newb question. Why do they offer the same sub in 2 ohm, and 4 ohm? Why would you want to double the resistance? Seems the obvious choice would be the 2 ohm. I probably knew this once, but since I go 5 years at a time without even considering car audio, I must have forgotten. Every once in awhile I'll research a half decent system for the car I'm driving, and have it installed somewhere. Then I don't look at car audio again until I get another car.
With a lot of amps, the amount of output depends on the final resistance/load, and that can change depending on the number of subs and how itís wired. Offering subs with different resistance allows flexibility. With some amps, it doesnít matter, as they will put out the same amount of power regardless. Thatís how mine are. My subs are 3 ohm, but my amps will put out the same power if I put them on a 4 ohm, 2 oh, 8 ohm sub, etc.
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:38 PM   #16
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So who here is good at building quality, integrated sub enclosures versus a lot of stereo stores universal "box" thats just strapped down in the trunk? I've been planning for several years to have a well designed enclosure built that integrates into the upper portion of the trunk in my Grand National but I haven't found anyone yet. I don't want the universal ghetto box tossed into the trunk..I want something that looks good and sounds GOOD...not boomy. My plan was to use 2 matching 10" subs along with my Linear 2202IQ. Already have separate Alpine amps running Boston Acoustics separates up front and a good set of Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck..just need some good low end to finish it out.
I designed my own center console box using JLís air space specs published on their website and carefully measuring the room i had and how i wanted it to look and sit. Then I drew it up, checked things, drew it up a few different times, remeasured, triple checked, and then took the final draft to Eric (EW) at Autosound, and he had a cabinet maker build the box. It came out perfect. Autosound isnít around anymore, and Eric has moved on, but Iím sure if you designed the box and have a good drawing with exact measurements to a good carpenter, they could make it for you pretty easily.

I did pretty much the same thing on the previous system in my Explorer that had a huge ported box for two 15s. Eric actually did more of the design work on that one. I donít have experience with building ports so that theyíre tuned to a particular frequency, but he did. I basically told him where i wanted it and he did the rest. Heís a wealth of knowledge and the industry was better when he was in it.

Obviously, itís easier to build a sealed enclosure to spec than it is to get a ported enclosure just right.

Most prefab boxes are junk, and if they arenít matched to the specs for the sub, they wonít sound as good as they are meant to. JL sells the Stealthboxes and also regular sub boxes preloaded with their subs and obviously those are matched perfectly.
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:56 AM   #17
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I designed my own center console box using JLís air space specs published on their website and carefully measuring the room i had and how i wanted it to look and sit. Then I drew it up, checked things, drew it up a few different times, remeasured, triple checked, and then took the final draft to Eric (EW) at Autosound, and he had a cabinet maker build the box. It came out perfect. Autosound isnít around anymore, and Eric has moved on, but Iím sure if you designed the box and have a good drawing with exact measurements to a good carpenter, they could make it for you pretty easily.

I did pretty much the same thing on the previous system in my Explorer that had a huge ported box for two 15s. Eric actually did more of the design work on that one. I donít have experience with building ports so that theyíre tuned to a particular frequency, but he did. I basically told him where i wanted it and he did the rest. Heís a wealth of knowledge and the industry was better when he was in it.

Obviously, itís easier to build a sealed enclosure to spec than it is to get a ported enclosure just right.

Most prefab boxes are junk, and if they arenít matched to the specs for the sub, they wonít sound as good as they are meant to. JL sells the Stealthboxes and also regular sub boxes preloaded with their subs and obviously those are matched perfectly.
JL doesn't make a stealthbox for the 80's G-body or I would consider one. I had a single 10 stealthbox in my old 98 GMC Sierra and I found a used center console stealthbox for my 08 Sierra I have now...and it sounds fantastic.
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Old 12-17-2019, 04:15 PM   #18
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I know they may 6x9 adapters for that car. Back in the day when I daily drove a Cuda, I had two infinity reference 6x9's on my deck and a Orion HCCA 225 running them. They based just like 10's back there and really just sounded great overall.

And I feel your pain I just dropped an 8 between the seats on my Z3. I was trying to keep the head unit in this thing but the reception is just meh. Sounds much better though now. Some of the speakers were completely missing the surround.
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Old 12-18-2019, 08:42 PM   #19
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I know they may 6x9 adapters for that car. Back in the day when I daily drove a Cuda, I had two infinity reference 6x9's on my deck and a Orion HCCA 225 running them. They based just like 10's back there and really just sounded great overall.

And I feel your pain I just dropped an 8 between the seats on my Z3. I was trying to keep the head unit in this thing but the reception is just meh. Sounds much better though now. Some of the speakers were completely missing the surround.
I have a good set of 6x9's in the rear deck powered by a 60wpc Alpine amp already, they just cannot produce the clean deep bass that I want at any volume..I'm going to need real subs to get the sound I want. My 08 GMC that I got from my dad had 1 working speaker in it out of the 6 that it was equipped with..seems to be a common problem on the 08-13 Silverado/Sierra. Installing components in the front, new rear speakers, a new head unit and a true sub (JL center console Stealthbox with 1 10" and a Linear Power 952iq) made a dramatic difference.
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Old 12-19-2019, 03:23 AM   #20
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Oh I here ya. The Z3 had the top notch HK system with crossovers, and two amps running components in the front and the doors,4inchs behind the seat, and a 6.5 sub between the seats. The fronts had no surround, the rears looked new, doors were fair, and the sub was just the frame. I dropped in a tiny kicker 200.1, and a top loading 8 inch Pioneer between the seats in a custom box, some JBL companents in front, and Fosgates behind the seat. The original head was decent in these but the sub amp was not up to the task. The other amp is like 6 channels with built in crossovers and it is hanging in there for now. Sounds a whole lot better. That 8 in that small of a car puts out some base. The funny thing is these head units bring 400 on ebay, and the box for the 6.5 is rare, amps bring some coin. If I do finish out the swap, the stock stuff will pay out more than the upgrades. It is a M series though, I didn't buy it for the stereo. Got tired of building Miatas and figured I would try something that was built fairly well from the factory.
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