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Old 02-16-2018, 06:39 PM   #41
svauto-erotic855
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^^^ If you have a poor or intermittent ground you will have the same problem with the new alternator and you can kill your brand new one. If you do the checks I mentioned you will be able to isolate the cause of failure.

If you are sick of fucking with it I will be back in town Tuesday and can take a look at your car that afternoon.
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #42
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You're welcome to come check out my garbage. You might dig it. See where that sanden 709 ended up.

The engine is thoroughly grounded, though I will test it to be sure.
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Old 02-18-2018, 04:55 PM   #43
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I tested the engine and alternator ground to the chassis and it seemed normal.

I'll try slapping in a autozone 3g.

Was there a high amp small case 3g offered by ford on anything or is 95amp the most I can get for a factory offering with the 7 inch mount?
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:01 PM   #44
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130amp I believe is the largest
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:29 PM   #45
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Which model has 130 amp with the 7 inch mount spacing? I know the E350 had 130 amp version but with 8.25 spacing.
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:53 PM   #46
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I was running a 95 contour 130 amp 3g on my fox, i think it was the one with a 3.5L. Had to index the mounting holes differently and grind the mounting bracket a bit to get it to fit.
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:47 PM   #47
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Contour isn't right.

After lots of digging, mid 90s taurus with the 3.0 ohv v6 or 1995 mustang 5.0 should work. Both have 130 amp 3g with 7 inch mount spacing.
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:40 AM   #48
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So I installed the 3g and it makes 14-15v but it still bounces around just like the previous alternator.

If I disconnect the alternator and run the engine, I am seeing 12v but it still bounces around.

I can run the engine with key off as the ignition is on a dedicated switch and it still bounces around. Ive checked the box setup and it looks correct.

What else should I be looking for? I'm stumped
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:06 PM   #49
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Could a faulty ignition box or coil be creating these weird voltage readings?
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Old 03-04-2018, 10:19 PM   #50
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Quote:
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Could a faulty ignition box or coil be creating these weird voltage readings?
No. You may have ground loop issues. Try going with a single ground from the battery to the block and a single one from the battery to the body. It sounds like your voltage regulator is having trouble finding a consistent ground.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:09 AM   #51
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Quote:
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No. You may have ground loop issues. Try going with a single ground from the battery to the block and a single one from the battery to the body. It sounds like your voltage regulator is having trouble finding a consistent ground.
Battery is in the trunk. Battery is grounded to the body. With the engine running the battery sees a constant 14v.

Engine is grounded at 2 different places. I added a third from the alternator to the body with no changes. Still seeing weird voltage jumps at the starter solenoid positive junction while running.

I swapped to a 3g that is hooked to a key on/off setup. Weird voltage readings have continued with the alternator key OFF with the engine running. I think I can rule out the alternator at this point since the weird readings continue when i don't have it on.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:45 AM   #52
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Battery is in the trunk. Battery is grounded to the body. With the engine running the battery sees a constant 14v.

Engine is grounded at 2 different places. I added a third from the alternator to the body with no changes. Still seeing weird voltage jumps at the starter solenoid positive junction while running.

I swapped to a 3g that is hooked to a key on/off setup. Weird voltage readings have continued with the alternator key OFF with the engine running. I think I can rule out the alternator at this point since the weird readings continue when i don't have it on.
That is your problem right there. The body is the worst place for the ground to be. Your voltage regulator is having a hard time finding the zero baseline and you have multiple ground loops. You can run the yellow wire to the junction and it will dampen most of the swings but you still need to ground the battery directly to the block if you want to eliminate them.
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:56 AM   #53
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Don't most trunk relocations ground to the body? I should mention, 1971 Torino is unibody, not body on frame if that makes a difference.

You mention the voltage regulator not getting a good ground, but the voltage jumps around with the alternator disconnected while the engine is running.
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:46 PM   #54
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Don't most trunk relocations ground to the body? I should mention, 1971 Torino is unibody, not body on frame if that makes a difference.

You mention the voltage regulator not getting a good ground, but the voltage jumps around with the alternator disconnected while the engine is running.
They do but that doesn't mean that it is ideal.

Switch your meter to AC voltage and with the alternator turned off check for AC voltage feedback from your fuel pump and ignition box. You may also want to put a fresh battery in your meter to make sure it is reading correctly.

Can you tell me what components are on your car that draw power from the electrical system?
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:47 AM   #55
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Quote:
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They do but that doesn't mean that it is ideal.

Switch your meter to AC voltage and with the alternator turned off check for AC voltage feedback from your fuel pump and ignition box. You may also want to put a fresh battery in your meter to make sure it is reading correctly.

Can you tell me what components are on your car that draw power from the electrical system?
What do you mean by check AC voltage feedback? Just switch the meter to AC and measure accross what exactly?

I can run the engine with the ignition as the only current draw. I've disconnected the fans and the power to the factory wiring. The fuel pump is mechanical.

The ignition is a crane fireball box with matching coil. The distributor is a ford duraspark.
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:10 PM   #56
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Quote:
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What do you mean by check AC voltage feedback? Just switch the meter to AC and measure accross what exactly?

I can run the engine with the ignition as the only current draw. I've disconnected the fans and the power to the factory wiring. The fuel pump is mechanical.

The ignition is a crane fireball box with matching coil. The distributor is a ford duraspark.
Normally there is zero AC voltage that can be seen in a DC system unless something is amiss. Check the power wires coming from your ignition box to see if you can get a reading of any AC voltage.

It is completely impossible for your batteries voltage to jump higher if there is nothing charging it; it can only get lower from the draw on it when you are running total loss.
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Old 03-07-2018, 06:35 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svauto-erotic855 View Post
Normally there is zero AC voltage that can be seen in a DC system unless something is amiss. Check the power wires coming from your ignition box to see if you can get a reading of any AC voltage.

It is completely impossible for your batteries voltage to jump higher if there is nothing charging it; it can only get lower from the draw on it when you are running total loss.
12 is about the highest I see when testing with alternator off. But it drops to 2 then 8 then 4 then 12 then 1 then 9 then 2 etc etc etc.

With the alternator on, its behaves similar but peaks around 17 sometimes.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:02 AM   #58
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Have you considered having your battery tested? You may also want to test your meter against another one.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:44 AM   #59
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I've tried this with 2 different meters and got the same results.

Also, the voltage at the battery doesn't fluctuate when running.
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