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Utility/Garden shed - ATTN: juiceweezl

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  • #16
    It'll just increase the bearing, but not really necessary since you're putting it centered on a cap block. Considering it's only 2 boards though, go for it just to make it easier to attach wall framing. Oh, and I'd screw the subfloor, especially since you're going into PTW.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by juiceweezl View Post
      It'll just increase the bearing, but not really necessary since you're putting it centered on a cap block. Considering it's only 2 boards though, go for it just to make it easier to attach wall framing. Oh, and I'd screw the subfloor, especially since you're going into PTW.
      Should I center on the cap block? I have it turned length wise (along 12' side), the Header catches the long edge and the rim joist catches the short edge, my second floor joist catches the opposite edge of the block.

      For the floor I am going to use Tetra Grip's. This nifty nail/screw hybrid we have started using for our sub floors. It shoots from a special nail gun and actually twists as it is driven into the lumber. Think a ring shank on steroids. Any future repairs will require cutting the head off, but the floor will not be moving a bit!

      I am hoping to get the majority of the remaining floor joists put in tonight, leaving hangers and brackets for Wednesday. We are going out of town Thursday morning and wont be back until Saturday. Hopefully the following weekend I can pick up the 3/4 plywood for the floor and the studs for the wall framing.
      Originally posted by Leah
      Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
        Should I center on the cap block? I have it turned length wise (along 12' side), the Header catches the long edge and the rim joist catches the short edge, my second floor joist catches the opposite edge of the block.

        For the floor I am going to use Tetra Grip's. This nifty nail/screw hybrid we have started using for our sub floors. It shoots from a special nail gun and actually twists as it is driven into the lumber. Think a ring shank on steroids. Any future repairs will require cutting the head off, but the floor will not be moving a bit!

        I am hoping to get the majority of the remaining floor joists put in tonight, leaving hangers and brackets for Wednesday. We are going out of town Thursday morning and wont be back until Saturday. Hopefully the following weekend I can pick up the 3/4 plywood for the floor and the studs for the wall framing.
        If you're supporting the end of each joist, it won't really matter. If you're primarily supporting the header/true rim (the one that all the joist ends attach to), then you want as much bearing on it as you can have because it's carrying the load for all the joists. I would have the long direction on the rims/headers and you should be fine.

        Oh, and I'm familiar with scrails. Faster than a true screw but stronger than a smooth shank nail. It's an in between of the two and performs accordingly. Screwing (and gluing) subfloor is the stiffest, best option, but it's a bit slower, even with our collated screw system, than a pneumatic driven fastener.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by juiceweezl View Post
          If you're supporting the end of each joist, it won't really matter. If you're primarily supporting the header/true rim (the one that all the joist ends attach to), then you want as much bearing on it as you can have because it's carrying the load for all the joists. I would have the long direction on the rims/headers and you should be fine.

          Oh, and I'm familiar with scrails. Faster than a true screw but stronger than a smooth shank nail. It's an in between of the two and performs accordingly. Screwing (and gluing) subfloor is the stiffest, best option, but it's a bit slower, even with our collated screw system, than a pneumatic driven fastener.
          We've seen fewer floor squeaks since using the tetra grips. However, previously we were nailing and gluing. Coming back after drywall and screwing the subfloor down. The tetragrips have eliminated the smooth framing nails.

          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
          Originally posted by Leah
          Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
            We've seen fewer floor squeaks since using the tetra grips. However, previously we were nailing and gluing. Coming back after drywall and screwing the subfloor down. The tetragrips have eliminated the smooth framing nails.

            Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
            This is the best way to do it.

            This system is ideal for subfloor to wood or steel applications. It features expanded depth settings for appropriate countersink and a reversible and replaceable non-skid teeth attachment.


            Video of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_Zmv5al8vM

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            • #21
              Floor joists are in. Still undecided on the double rim joist. I ran out of deck screws, do I need to pick up another box and put the few in that are missing. Joist hangers are all in and nailed.

              It will sit like it is for at least a week. I will have to get my floor and studs from work at some point. We are going out of town on Thursday and wont be back until late Saturday.

              I need to calculate the amount of Hardie I need so i can get that ordered and delivered. I am planning on colonial siding up to the bottom of the gable and hardie shingle panels in the gable to match the front of our house

              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
              Originally posted by Leah
              Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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              • #22
                Well, I should have a floor and walls by the end of the weekend.I scraped up enough 8' studs to frame the walls and have a co-worker hauling it home for me tonight!

                Has anyone ever used shed anchors? I have a set of the arrow head type shed anchors that should be waiting for me when I get home.
                Originally posted by Leah
                Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                • #23
                  Wanna see photos of the build!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by snacksnack View Post
                    Wanna see photos of the build!
                    Agree!

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                    • #25
                      I will try to take some as I go. I have already made one bone headed move. When building the frame, I sandwiched the 8' joists between the headers. I didn't think to cut the 3" off to accomodate for the width of the headers. Everything is screwed together and joist hangers are in. So now, I am going to have to rip some plywood and block the floor to accomodate my error.

                      The floor is going to be untreated plywood. Why? Because free. That's why! I plan to prime the bottom side and edges with exterior primer and lay a 5 or 10 mil plastic as a moisture barrier.

                      My goal is to try and have all 4 walls standing by sunset tomorrow. I will try to remember to take pictures along the way

                      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                      Originally posted by Leah
                      Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                      • #26
                        Well, here is my current state of affairs. I thought i had a picture of the poly before the floor went down.

                        Foundation is treated 2x6 on cap blocks. I laid 2 layers of 3.5 mil poly as a moisture barrier along with priming the under side of the plywood with exterior enamel. (Why? Because free wood, thats why...) then I started framing walls. I have the back wall, 12', framed up, now I just have to find someone to help me raise it, and the others!





                        And here are the anchors I am using. I decided after anchoring the 4 corners that they were going to hold just fine. They are arrow head type. You drive them down, give the cable a tug and it tirns the anchor flat.



                        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                        Originally posted by Leah
                        Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Here is how day 1 ended.



                          Here is where we are now.



                          I spent the morning working on the window and door framing. Headers, cripple studs, etc.

                          I noticed yesterday that my tetra grip nails weren't long enough the shoot through the bottom plate, 3/4 subfloor, and grab enough of the 2x6 foundation. So, I shot 3 1/2" deck screws down at the corners and about every 20" to help hold everything down.

                          I have enough OSB and decking at work in forney to finish it up.
                          I am going to try and get the rafters cut today and put up by the end of the week.

                          OSB will get painted with the same exterior enamel as the subfloor and the seams taped with protecto wrap.

                          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                          Originally posted by Leah
                          Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                          • #28
                            Well, today ended with the ridge board up and 10 rafters cut. I calculated, and measured. Calculated and measured again, to make sure my rafters came out perfect so they would go up quick.

                            Well, my shed is a touch out of square so that threw things off a bit. Then, I set my ridge board about 2" too high, still not sure how I managed that. So, now I have to alter the rafters. I am going to open up the birds mouth and adjust the angle at the top of the rafters. Opening the birds mouth has a potential negative in that the rafters will not be bearing on the top plate like they should. I plan to remedy that by nailing thrm to the ceiling joists I have up. That should transfer the load. If I have any concerns at the point, I will att a 2x4 to the inside of the top plate for support.

                            All of this in the name of not having to spend $50 on 2x6's or try to get 10 more 2x6's from work.

                            Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
                            Originally posted by Leah
                            Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                            • #29
                              I ran the calculators again this morning, my rafters are cut correctly, not sure what the problem is. So, tonight, I am cutting the ridge board down, dropping it 2" and putting it back up. For some reason, my rafters on the back side of the shed are short. Maybe, once I lower the ridge, they will set where they need to. If not, I may have to double the ridge board to get them to match up, that additional 1 1/2" might fix the problem.

                              I got to thinking about my "fix" last night and realized that if I open up the birds mouth, slide the rafter in, it is going to screw up my over hang and cause me issues when I try to put up the fascia and soffit.

                              hopefully I can get all of this taken care of and get my rafters set by the end of the week and my roofer can get it roofed for me next weekend.
                              Originally posted by Leah
                              Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Man that looks like its going to be a badass shed. Keep the pics coming.

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