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Best way to get a line out on modern sound systems?

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  • Best way to get a line out on modern sound systems?

    I just picked up a new truck (2019 Silverado) and its the first vehicle I have ever owned that I DO NOT want to remove the factory head unit. Its far too integrated with the rest of the truck to even flirt with removing. It has the factory BOSE stereo which is blah but whatever. I can deal with that but I need more bass. SO.... I was considering building a box for a pair of slim subs for under the rear seat, I already have a good amp I would like to use but I don't have a way to get a good line out for it. The internet is all over the place on what to do. Its obvious that I need some sort of signal processor to get a good clean line out but what?

    Is anyone here still fooling around with this stuff and in the loop?

  • #2
    Get a line out converter and hook it into an existing speaker. It’s what I did on my mustang, way easier than pulling the headunit.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BMCSean View Post
      Get a line out converter and hook it into an existing speaker. It’s what I did on my mustang, way easier than pulling the headunit.
      Those produce terrible quality line outs in my experience. I'm looking for the quality of signal that one could expect from a higher end head unit.

      I've been looking at JL audio FIX 86 but I'm not sure how to integrate it.

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      • #4


        It's not cheap, but far less expensive than yanking the factory stuff and replacing it with all new components.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ram57ta View Post
          https://pac-audio.com/2018/09/21/adv...s-with-most50/

          It's not cheap, but far less expensive than yanking the factory stuff and replacing it with all new components.
          I don't think you can really do that anymore. Well you can but the replacement head unit needs to be able to communicate with the network, meaning it needs the calibration codes from the factory one and meet the exact same electrical load.

          For newer Harleys there are aftermarket tuners that update the firmware and give you the ability to adjust the equalization. I'd imagine someone is working on the same thing for GM if HP Tuners doesn't already have something.

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          • #6
            Curious to see how the aftermarket head unit industry adapts. To being pretty much cut out.
            WH

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            • #7
              Originally posted by inline 6 View Post
              I've been looking at JL audio FIX 86 but I'm not sure how to integrate it.

              The JL stuff is top notch. I run the TWK 88 in my system (with aftermarket head unit). The TUN software is really detailed/complicated at first, but it allows a ton of capability once you get to playing with it.

              It looks like the FIX 86 takes the speaker wire output from the factory head unit and then converts it to RCA. I'm not sure if there's a good place to grab those wires, or if you'd have to pull the head unit to get to them (most likely). There might be some kind of vehicle-specific adapter that could keep everything clean, so you're not just cutting wires. Times like these, I really wish EW was still in the business. You could always call JL directly and have them give you good info.

              I know that if I were upgrading stuff and keeping a factory head unit, I would absolutely go with the JL offerings to make that happen.

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              • #8
                I am. I picked up the FIX 86, the dual knob for it I'm looking for any cyber monday coupons I can before I order a JL HD 1200/1 amp and a pair of JL Tw5v2 subs.


                I found a place online that sells a T harness to get the fix 86 plugged in.

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                • #9
                  Whatever you do, don't just slap those subs in any ol' box just because it fits behind/under the seat in your truck. Make sure the air space matches the specs on the subs. Better yet, see if you can find a Stealthbox for your truck. It will fit perfectly and be built exactly to spec. I used to run a Stealthbox with a 13tw5 in my truck, and it sounded great, but I still needed more, so now I run a pair of 12w7s in a custom center console.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jluv View Post
                    Whatever you do, don't just slap those subs in any ol' box just because it fits behind/under the seat in your truck. Make sure the air space matches the specs on the subs. Better yet, see if you can find a Stealthbox for your truck. It will fit perfectly and be built exactly to spec. I used to run a Stealthbox with a 13tw5 in my truck, and it sounded great, but I still needed more, so now I run a pair of 12w7s in a custom center console.
                    I will not, I build my own boxes. I enjoy it too much to let someone else do it.

                    With a pair of the 13 Tw5v2 subs do you think that's enough? I don't want competition level bass but I do want plenty of it. This shit aint cheap so what do you think a reasonable level of expectation is for a pair of those with a 1200w amp is in a good box? Mind you they are only to be installed in a sealed box and this would be down firing.

                    I don't want to drop another 2k for the subs and amp only to be "meh" when I get it done.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by inline 6 View Post
                      I will not, I build my own boxes. I enjoy it too much to let someone else do it.

                      With a pair of the 13 Tw5v2 subs do you think that's enough? I don't want competition level bass but I do want plenty of it. This shit aint cheap so what do you think a reasonable level of expectation is for a pair of those with a 1200w amp is in a good box? Mind you they are only to be installed in a sealed box and this would be down firing.

                      I don't want to drop another 2k for the subs and amp only to be "meh" when I get it done.
                      Those are great subs and that’s plenty of power. If you build the box to JL’s specs, I know you’ll get great sound quality, and the output should be more than enough for most sane people. Far better than “meh”. Even with the one I had in the Stealth box on 600 watts, the output was good, but I’m a recovering bass head whose previous system had two Type R 15s ported, so I wanted more. I’m definitely way more into SQ now, and two sealed 12w7s on 750 watts each is my happy medium. If you’re looking for something that fits under or behind the seats, I don’t think you can beat what you have planned.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jluv View Post
                        Those are great subs and that’s plenty of power. If you build the box to JL’s specs, I know you’ll get great sound quality, and the output should be more than enough for most sane people. Far better than “meh”. Even with the one I had in the Stealth box on 600 watts, the output was good, but I’m a recovering bass head whose previous system had two Type R 15s ported, so I wanted more. I’m definitely way more into SQ now, and two sealed 12w7s on 750 watts each is my happy medium. If you’re looking for something that fits under or behind the seats, I don’t think you can beat what you have planned.
                        Newb question. Why do they offer the same sub in 2 ohm, and 4 ohm? Why would you want to double the resistance? Seems the obvious choice would be the 2 ohm. I probably knew this once, but since I go 5 years at a time without even considering car audio, I must have forgotten. Every once in awhile I'll research a half decent system for the car I'm driving, and have it installed somewhere. Then I don't look at car audio again until I get another car.
                        WH

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                        • #13
                          do people not use Crutchfield anymore? it's the easiest solution

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                          • #14
                            So who here is good at building quality, integrated sub enclosures versus a lot of stereo stores universal "box" thats just strapped down in the trunk? I've been planning for several years to have a well designed enclosure built that integrates into the upper portion of the trunk in my Grand National but I haven't found anyone yet. I don't want the universal ghetto box tossed into the trunk..I want something that looks good and sounds GOOD...not boomy. My plan was to use 2 matching 10" subs along with my Linear 2202IQ. Already have separate Alpine amps running Boston Acoustics separates up front and a good set of Pioneer 6x9's in the rear deck..just need some good low end to finish it out.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post
                              Newb question. Why do they offer the same sub in 2 ohm, and 4 ohm? Why would you want to double the resistance? Seems the obvious choice would be the 2 ohm. I probably knew this once, but since I go 5 years at a time without even considering car audio, I must have forgotten. Every once in awhile I'll research a half decent system for the car I'm driving, and have it installed somewhere. Then I don't look at car audio again until I get another car.
                              With a lot of amps, the amount of output depends on the final resistance/load, and that can change depending on the number of subs and how it’s wired. Offering subs with different resistance allows flexibility. With some amps, it doesn’t matter, as they will put out the same amount of power regardless. That’s how mine are. My subs are 3 ohm, but my amps will put out the same power if I put them on a 4 ohm, 2 oh, 8 ohm sub, etc.

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