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  • Ford Tech Here???

    Do we have one? Trying to start my 2K GT after 5 plus years of sitting. It's obviously not stock, but I think PATS is giving me issues. Turns over and acts like it wants to start, but just won't do it. Sometimes THEFT flashes fast, sometimes not. I've cleared P1260 a few times, but I also think fuel pressure is low. Trying to figure out how PATS works so I know where to start. TIA

  • #2
    Man, this may sound elementary, but I've used a factory FOB with new batteries and they've fired up. No FOBS get some and have them programmed
    Originally posted by Silverback
    Look all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Rick Modena View Post
      Man, this may sound elementary, but I've used a factory FOB with new batteries and they've fired up. No FOBS get some and have them programmed
      I've got both FOBS (original ones). I had to change the receiver at the key switch years ago. Now I'm getting P1260 and rapid theft flash constantly. No real fuel pressure either, so I'm troubleshooting that too. I'm too old to be crawling around under this thing. I need a lift in my garage!

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      • #4
        Man, its going on 20 years of me having and working those new edge cars, but my buddy had a similar problem on his. Couldn't get it it to start after it sat for awhile, same thing, 'theft' light flashing P1260. His happened after changing the battery, only was using a spare key to lock/un-lock. Used the FOB and all was well, that bitch fired right up.
        I would think that IPC or PCM needs to be paired up to the keys, there's a chip in the key too and key FOBs iirc.
        Just food for thought, my Cobra had a similar issue, but it turned out to be a bad PCM that was causing the PATS system to randomly go into limp mode. And limp modes on those cars are no fuel/no spark.
        Originally posted by Silverback
        Look all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.

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        • #5
          Thanks. I'll double check PCM. It did it when I first put in new battery and powered it up, but then it stopped. I know I'm not getting fuel or at least not at any pressure, so I have to fix that. It won't matter thought if I can't clear PATS. I had to replace the transceiver years ago, so I'm going to switch it back (still had the old one) and see if it does anything. My dumbass shouldn't have let it sit so long, but life gets busy when the kids start growing. My oldest is a senior this year, and my work travel is almost nonexistent now, so I have some time again to work on it. Hoping I can get it soon.

          And I'm with you -- been too long since I worked on it. I've got all kinds of shit wired in from gauges to nitrous to window switch, etc. It's a cluster under that dash - all the shit I did in a hurry and on the cheap years ago...

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          • #6
            Updating here for anyone interested. I replaced the PATS transceiver in the key switch. Turns out two wires from the hold one had come loose from their plug. PATS issue solved. Car still cranks but will not start. I keep checking and low fuel pressure. Manually fire up the Aeromotive on it bypassing the BAP switch. It rattles like crazy, so throw on more gas to the tank to make sure sump is covered...no dice. Aeromotive says pump is locked up and send it back.

            Close off that loop of the fuel system and focus on the SVT Focus in tank pump. I hear it turn on but not run at key on. Pressure is low on tuner. Assume pump is bad. Drop tank, replace pump, remount tank (after I siphoned the gas I put in it earlier out)...key on and same thing. WTH!!!

            Take it loose at the FPDM and key on then manually send 12v to fuel pump. Thing comes on and spinning like a top. Go to my workbench, pick up old pump and try same thing. Pump works fine...Inertia switch bypass confirmed it was fine too. CCRM is sending voltage to the FPDM, so that leaves the FPDM as the likely culprit. Ford house wants over $350 for one and take 3 days or so to get it. I'm trying to find another somewhere. It's always something. I should have bypassed it before I changed the pump...

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