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Fuel gauge issues on 1966 mustang

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  • Fuel gauge issues on 1966 mustang

    It has never read "full" since I finished the restoration a 1 1/2 years ago. All new wiring, tank, and sender in tank. Original gauge.

    I ground the sender wire to the frame: gauge goes to full

    I hook the float/sender up to the wire, ground the assembly and push the float all of the way up: gauge goes to full.

    I put the float in the tank, hook up the sender wire, fill it up: only shows half full

    After a few gallons burned the gauge just sits on empty and I get play the "when will it be empty" game.

    I've pulled it apart more than four times, tested as described above, even tried a new float assembly; nothing. I'm damn tired of smelling like gas and looking for thoughts on this. The only thing I can think of that might be screwing me is the tanks' ground to the body. I painted the tank prior to install, so I'm not sure if it's getting a good ground, or how I'm going to clean the mounting surface off now lol! If I ohm it out with my multimeter, how much resistance is too much, causing a faulty reading at the gauge?

  • #2
    I had a similar issue but opposite (read full for too long). I had to bend the float arm to an educated guess and it's better. I think the reading is 75 full to 10 empty.
    Putting warheads on foreheads since 2004

    Pro-Touring Build

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    • #3
      Well that's odd. Damn Taiwanese parts. So I guess I'll just have to take it out again and meter it out with the correct values, eff with it until it gets there. Fun fun!

      Resistance from a bolt through the tank - to the body is almost an ohm, you think that's too high? I used that 3M strip-caulk between the tank/body so the bolts are the only ground, and the tank is painted. Not sure if that might affect it.

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      • #4
        Try a ground strap?
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        • #5
          I might try that first, easy test and it's better than taking the float out......again.

          Although a problem with a cheap ass part is highly likely. I wish I could find a better quality float assembly.

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          • #6
            It could be a mismatched sending unit. A lot of the replacement tanks are 16 gallon vs the original 14gal. They use different sending units. Do you remember which ones you bought?

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            • #7
              I have feeling this is a float issue and not an electrical/ground issue. The float is not being allowed to float all the way to the top to give a reading of "full". Try what someone suggested earlier and maybe bend the float.
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              • #8
                Well I tried a ground strap and that didn't do it.

                Originally posted by homealone View Post
                It could be a mismatched sending unit. A lot of the replacement tanks are 16 gallon vs the original 14gal. They use different sending units. Do you remember which ones you bought?
                Well I bought the replacement 16gal tank w/drain in a kit that included the sender. I have since replaced the sender/float assembly with no change. I wish I would've known more about this before I trashed the OEM stuff, dammit!

                Originally posted by mustangguy289 View Post
                I have feeling this is a float issue and not an electrical/ground issue. The float is not being allowed to float all the way to the top to give a reading of "full". Try what someone suggested earlier and maybe bend the float.
                I think that you're right. I filled it up and drove it yesterday and it seems to stay on the half mark for quite a while. However, it seems I can still drive for some time after it hits E, more than I would think. I still need to ohm it out full and empty and check my readings.

                I'll just have to drain it, remove the neck so I can see what's going on in there. What a PITA. Oh, and the way it seals sucks too. I've had a leak after adding gas that required draining it and re-setting the seal and ring on the sender.

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