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Need help from my brethren deal finders

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  • #16
    Originally posted by junior View Post
    Wonder if he would take less cash in hand maybe 5k???
    I bet so. That's what I would try anyway.

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    • #17
      how long does it take to get a project car up and running ?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by bubbaearl View Post
        how long does it take to get a project car up and running ?
        nobody knows.
        "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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        • #19
          Originally posted by bubbaearl View Post
          how long does it take to get a project car up and running ?
          Hah, you know better. No way to answer that.

          For this one in the CL ad, it could be done in a couple weeks. Of course, it'd take me 5 years.

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          • #20
            I'm going to try and get a hold of him and see what he says.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by junior View Post
              I'm going to try and get a hold of him and see what he says.
              Cool. I can't speak to things like rust and whatnot, but I do know it's been garaged and he's a motivated seller.

              Based on what's out there, I do think this one could be the right amount of fun work for relatively cheap as long as the structure is relatively solid and you don't mind playing with the engine and interior.

              When you do check out any classic Mustangs, crawl around and check for rust in the floors (usually under the front footboard area) in the trunk and see if the owner will let you run a hose or dump a bucket of water in the cowl vents. Most of them are rusted (mine is) and water will drip on the floor and you've just created another negotiation point for a lower price. If they're smart they'll just straight up tell you if the cowl leaks or not.

              I personally don't view it as that big a deal. Store it inside and/or invest in a cheapie cowl cover and it's a non-issue. For perfectionists, fixing a rusted cowl is difficult and expensive. I never cared to mess with it and it's never really been a problem.

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              • #22
                More info:

                The floor pans are eaten through and it looks like somebody placed sheet metal over it rather than cut it out the corrosion and weld the sheet metal in place.

                That's not an ender to me, but I'd use that to get a better price and look closely at everything else.

                Edit: he just updated the ad with shots of the under side.

                More edit: looks like it's rusted on the inner fender apron under the battery (very common) and some rust bubbles in the rear quarters (also common).

                so you're going into this with eyes wide open, it's also a fair bet that to be a good driver, it could probably use some suspension love, and it still has the stock single-pot brake mastery cylinder, which should be replaced with a dual pot for safety. Common swap (which I have) is to put in a 75 Maverick master. I believe those are about $35 at the parts store.
                Last edited by BLAKE; 03-30-2017, 02:19 PM.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
                  nobody knows.

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                  • #24
                    I didnt see that he had the carb off. I mean, ten minutes of your time will keep me from dropping my offer a grand. Unless they have had the pans replaced, Id bet most of them are at least soft if not rusted through.

                    If I was in your shoes junior, Id offer 5k and see what happens.
                    "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
                      I didnt see that he had the carb off. I mean, ten minutes of your time will keep me from dropping my offer a grand. Unless they have had the pans replaced, Id bet most of them are at least soft if not rusted through.

                      If I was in your shoes junior, Id offer 5k and see what happens.
                      He said that one cylinder has low compression and he dropped a check valve or some such down the intake, so he's afraid to start it. Rightly so. It's a situation where he's done messing with it which saves the next owner money. The underside is pretty rotted though.

                      Based on the updated pics, I think this thing went from engine+some interior work to minor restoration, so it depends on what Junior and his dad are up for. I still see it as a reasonably cheap way to get into a V8 car, but it's also worth noting that adding $4-5K to the purchase budget could get you a car with none of these issues. Or at least fewer issues, so again, it's worth doing some soul searching to see what level of restoration counts as fun, and what level beyond that is just a pain in the ass.

                      The one saving grace is that it's complete and not too far gone. Somebody in Michigan wouldn't think twice about the level of rust in this car, but here in Texas, we're spoiled. Relatively rust free cars are something you can actually find around here.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by junior View Post
                        Eek....my budget is about 5k so I will sacrifice it being a v8, we can do some work not scared of that, my main fear is rust. I can do engine swap and Trans later, I'd like for it to look pretty good ie: not much body work but I can entertain ideas, I have till June to get it to run and drive and can be a project for my pops and I to get it looking sharp while spend time together.

                        I know it's kind of a low budget but hopefully I get lucky with a find.
                        I somehow missed this reply earlier. That budget is tight, even for a 6cyl car. I'll keep looking for you and see what I can dig up. Hard to find rust free cars for that kind of money unfortunately. One thought, and maybe this makes me a bad person, but say it does have some rust in the floor pan... if it's not awful, must it be replaced? My car had a small amount of rust in the floor. When I had it torn down that far, I cut out the small parts that were eaten through, pop rivited in some patch panels and fiberglassed over that. I treated the top and bottom side of the whole floor with Por-15 and went on down the road. You can't really tell there was ever rust if you look at it, and no more holes.

                        That's not the "right" way to do it, but it worked and nobody has ever noticed or cared. I'm not trying to win show trophies, so who cares? I sure don't. I never plan on selling and sometime I'll probably do it the right way. In the mean time, I'll be busy having fun driving my old car. F it.

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                        • #27
                          wait, licence plates arent "right" anymore?
                          "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
                            wait, licence plates arent "right" anymore?
                            No, but old stop signs are.

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                            • #29
                              You know Junior, I was thinking. You need to get him something cool. Like my wagon. It's for sale and in your budget.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by homealone View Post
                                You know Junior, I was thinking. You need to get him something cool. Like my wagon. It's for sale and in your budget.


                                How about that 65!?

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