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Old 08-03-2018, 09:19 AM   #21
shumpertdavid
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^^^^^^ what he said ^^^^^^^^
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Old 08-03-2018, 10:26 AM   #22
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Cool project
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:14 PM   #23
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Wow! 1000 Likes
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Old 08-04-2018, 10:11 AM   #24
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Super cool build. Keep the updates coming.

If you dont mind saying what was the cost of the engine and trans?
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:34 PM   #25
jw33
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I've just been slowly tinkering with stuff and haven't updated much, but a lot of stuff has been done. I swapped an 8.8/3:73 ratio in place of the 7.5/4:10 rear end because the 7.5 did have a tlok, but the clutches are next to impossible to find. Plus the 7.5 was probably on borrowed time even at 2400-2500lbs. I went ahead and put in a torque arm that I bought off of CL a few months ago while I was doing all the rear end stuff too.

The latest project was the shifter and the driveshaft. The MT82 in the 11-present Mustang uses a remote shifter that mounts to the transmission and to the chassis in the stock configuration. It is a shitty setup and because I had moved the engine as far back as possible the shifter with the stock linkage was too far back for comfort in this chassis. I ended up shortening the stock shifter and made a crude mount to attach it to the transmission mount. This moved the shifter handle forward some, but it was just OK. Quick note, the v6 linkage is about 30mm longer than the v8 version. What I ended up with is only slightly shorter than the v8 version and it just didn't feel very great. I taked to MGW and guess what? They make three different versions of their MT82 race shifter specifically for moving the handle forward for swap cars. I ended up with the version that moves the shifter back only 8" vs. the stock 12.5" from the end of the transmission. The MGW shifter is a work of art. You can tell that they are still a small company that doesn't have some nitwit running around who's only job is to cut costs to save a nickel. It is solid. MGW for life.

My version


MGW conversion shifter


It will be a shame to cover it all up with a shifter boot...




The driveshaft I of course had to have made and I didn't feel great about the clearance in the tunnel area. So since I already had to fix the transmission tunnel I went ahead and cut out the sheet metal where it was close to the driveshaft. Now there is plenty of clearance and I shouldn't have to cringe when the car bottoms out over a curb or bumps.





Now it could run/drive, but I decided to redo the stock hard fuel line. Ford thought it would be a great idea to cross the fuel line from the passenger side to the driver side by going over the driveshaft and that just makes me nervous. I ordered some -6 size PTFE braided SS hose and I'll route it a little different to keep it away from moving parts and hot exhaust. After that it is all pretty much small stuff and I can actually start to think about a test day. I even have new wheels/tires sitting in the garage. 18x10.5 with 275/40 on all corners.


Last edited by jw33; 11-11-2018 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:23 AM   #26
JV106
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That’s a cool build. Mgw makes a damn good shifter.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:55 AM   #27
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very cool man!
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:32 PM   #28
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That's looking great Jason.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:07 PM   #29
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How high are you going to spin that thing? Seems like something you could rev way up there.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:50 PM   #30
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That is so cool! I wish I had half of your ability.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:46 PM   #31
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Forgot to mention that before I put the drivetrain into the car I cracked the transmission apart to upgrade the shift fork pads to the brass version and inspect everything. It's good thing I did because the second gear synchronizer assembly was starting to get ate up and the little teeth were getting sharp. Everyone shits on this gear box and maybe I will too, but from the looks of it on the inside it is all pretty heavy duty. We'll see. It doesn't come apart or go back together like a T5. A lot of it was pressed together really tight and I had to build a few tools to take it apart. It's back together now obviously and it seems to shift fine.




Finally finished few more things and took it on a drive around the block today. That is a 275/40 with 18x10.5 on all four corners. It might rub and I have some cheap plastic flares if needed. The PTFE fuel line is the way to go from now on in my opinion. More $$$, but it is way tougher and it doesn't smell. The only other downside is that it is slightly less flexible and tight bends could be an issue.










I also decided to move the proportioning valve into the car so you could mess around with it while driving. Here's a tip. If you've ever used the cheap flare tools you can buy like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/ go ahead and throw that piece of shit in the trash. Go get one of the Eastwood tools: https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...kaAgqSEALw_wcB
and never worry about screwing up a flare again. So much easier to use and the flares come out perfect.




The wiring is nearing the end and mostly all that is left is to neat everything up and make some labels. The switches are simple. Left is a momentary toggle for the starter, middle is the ECU/fuel pump, and the right will turn on the fan manually. The ECU controls the cooling fan automatically, but this is an over-ride if needed. There is also and interrupt circuit so that the fan turns off if the starter relay closes (prevents large fan circuit amp draw with car off/fan running and someone starts the car). The high-beam indicator is being used to let you know when the fan is running. I used an F-body radiator since they fit into a mustang perfect, are cheap brand new from places like rock auto, and f-body the dual fan setup fits great too. I'm only using one fan and in the event it fails I can just move the plug to the other fan and continue until I replace the entire assembly. The knob is for the cool suit pump and can be adjusted to conserve ice. Radio is there within arms reach and can be seen and adjusted if need along with one of the master kill switches, and the OBDII port is at the bottom. I'll probably add a PTT button for the radio and then I need to add a fire suppression pull station somewhere easy to find/hard to accidentally pull. I'm not happy with the exhaust so I will be re-doing that into something very different. I have most of the materials I will need and we'll see how the next version turns out, but I hate building exhaust in my garage so it has been on the back burner now for a while...
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Old 07-06-2019, 07:20 PM   #32
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Damn, looking good!!
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:41 PM   #33
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Impressive workmanship. Is it fast?
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:16 PM   #34
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Nice build, my sons '13 mustang had the 3.7 V-6 and ran great for what it was. It was an A-6, so I imagine this thing should haul ass.
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:48 PM   #35
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I imagine this car will have 250+whp and weighs right around 2600lbs. Even more important is that it should be very reliable and have great throttle response.
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Old 07-08-2019, 01:03 PM   #36
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I imagine this car will have 250+whp and weighs right around 2600lbs. Even more important is that it should be very reliable and have great throttle response.
Nice! My fairmont dynoed 248, and it's 2900 lbs.
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:03 PM   #37
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just as long as you paint that son of a bitch
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Old 07-13-2019, 08:51 AM   #38
slow84lx
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That's a cool swap and should be plenty of fun running around the track. Good job!
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