Reccomended flooring?

[whitetrash]

For a room leading in from a pool? Currently in the process of buying a home that we plan to pull the carpet up and re floor but we aren't sure what route to take.

My thought so far is tile or stain the concrete in the living, dining, and kitchen as they all come together at the back door that goes to the pool. Then a higher quality wood laminate for bedrooms and game room.

[Baron Von Crowder]

subscribing.

this has been recomended for our kitchen/pool entry area.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Allure-Ultra-7-5-in-x-47-6-in-Vintage-Oak-Cinnamon-Resilient-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring-19-8-sq-ft-case-517115/202352552?N=5yc1vZbzjz

[Chili]

For a room leading in from a pool? Currently in the process of buying a home that we plan to pull the carpet up and re floor but we aren't sure what route to take.

My thought so far is tile or stain the concrete in the living, dining, and kitchen as they all come together at the back door that goes to the pool. Then a higher quality wood laminate for bedrooms and game room.

Without seeing the layout of the area, I would do tile. But make sure it is something with some texture, or wet feet entering will have the tendency to slip. Depending on the layout, you may be able to get away with just a small amount of tile right in front of the door.

You could also just do the whole area / room in that ceramic tile that looks like hand-scraped wood.

I would be hesitant to put down laminate flooring where you know wet feet will be entering often.

[Chili]

subscribing.

this has been recomended for our kitchen/pool entry area.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMA...2?N=5yc1vZbzjz

That is what we have in most of our house.. Waterproof, which is great. No subfloor, vapor barrier.. Lays straight down over concrete (or even existing tile). It does flex, making it a pita to install in some cases (difficulty with the "snap-lock"), but that also helped in some areas that were not perfectly level. Overall we have been happy with it.

I also like that you can cut it with a box cutter (straight cuts only). For notching around things I used an oscillating tool (http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ool-61219.html)


FYI, it is heavy as fuck (each box is like 90lbs).. Have that shit delivered if you go that route. Install is pretty easy. Pulling up the old carpet and undercutting all of the door jambs was the hardest part.

[Chili]

Not sure why I didn't even think of that Allure.. lol.

Some pics of when we installed it (about 4 years ago):





Old Nasty Carpet:


Carpet out (along with baseboards and door trim):


New floor in (looks a lot lighter in this pic, the one above is a better representation):


Than transition is the only one we did, and only because we were changing directions of the lay. The rest of the house (3 of 4 bedrooms, hallways, dining and kitchen) are continuous. That added to the installation challenge some.

[ELVIS]

i wonder how that vinyl holds up to dogs? our pup had TRASHED the hardwood in the house with his nails.... its now looks like shit and its driving me crazy

god bless.

[black2002ls]

I wouldn't use any kind of click lock floor in an area that you KNOW will see water. It WILL penetrate the tongue and groove and damage the lower layers of the laminate. The top surface is quite resilient and durable, the lower layers, not so much.

If you want wood/wood look look at faux wood tile or entertain the idea of laying a tile landing at the door coming in from the pool.

Another thing to keep in mind, any type of wood that goes into the kitchen, make sure your dishwasher has some kind of advanced leak detection system!

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[whitetrash]

Without seeing the layout of the area, I would do tile. But make sure it is something with some texture, or wet feet entering will have the tendency to slip. Depending on the layout, you may be able to get away with just a small amount of tile right in front of the door.

You could also just do the whole area / room in that ceramic tile that looks like hand-scraped wood.

I would be hesitant to put down laminate flooring where you know wet feet will be entering often.

If we do tile the wood look a like was our choice. We are going to have to pull all the lower trim as well since the previous owner cut it for a thicker pad so hopefully edges and corners won't suck completely

[Chili]

i wonder how that vinyl holds up to dogs? our pup had TRASHED the hardwood in the house with his nails.... its now looks like shit and its driving me crazy

god bless.

We have 2 Labs, and have dog sat for about 10 others, and no issues, whatsoever. Does not scratch easily and if it does (like a big gouge), you can apply some heat and smooth it out. Ask Christian.. He was messing with some scraps and scraped it pretty badly, and was able to easily fix with some heat.

[Chili]

I wouldn't use any kind of click lock floor in an area that you KNOW will see water. It WILL penetrate the tongue and groove and damage the lower layers of the laminate. The top surface is quite resilient and durable, the lower layers, not so much.

If you want wood/wood look look at faux wood tile or entertain the idea of laying a tile landing at the door coming in from the pool.

Another thing to keep in mind, any type of wood that goes into the kitchen, make sure your dishwasher has some kind of advanced leak detection system!

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Just to reiterate, I agree except with this Allure stuff (over concrete, of course). It is 100% waterproof. We have it in one bathroom and the kitchen. One of the big reasons we ended up going with it over real wood and tile.

It's also not nearly as loud as laminate when walking on it. Doesn't have that hollow sound either. Our neighbor across the street was looking for new flooring a couple years ago, and after seeing ours, ended up doing his whole house in it as well.

We only have 3 rooms without it. Our master bedroom & den, because we wanted carpet there, and our office. We were going to do the office but initially were not going to do Lea's daughter's room (she said she wanted carpet initially). So what we bought for the office went into her room, and we just never got around to buying the additional material to do the office.

I still want to, but it already has laminate and is completely segmented from the rest of the floors, so it has been a low priority. Also, that room started as an enclosed patio and is on joists, and is a bit bouncy in some areas. So when I do get around to doing it, I want to rip out the sub-floor and add some joists to firm up the floor. I am assuming they built it like the deck in the back yard, and they cheaped out with the joists (they are too far apart).

[black2002ls]

Just to reiterate, I agree except with this Allure stuff (over concrete, of course). It is 100% waterproof. We have it in one bathroom and the kitchen. One of the big reasons we ended up going with it over real wood and tile.

It's also not nearly as loud as laminate when walking on it. Doesn't have that hollow sound either. Our neighbor across the street was looking for new flooring a couple years ago, and after seeing ours, ended up doing his whole house in it as well.

We only have 3 rooms without it. Our master bedroom & den, because we wanted carpet there, and our office. We were going to do the office but initially were not going to do Lea's daughter's room (she said she wanted carpet initially). So what we bought for the office went into her room, and we just never got around to buying the additional material to do the office.

I still want to, but it already has laminate and is completely segmented from the rest of the floors, so it has been a low priority. Also, that room started as an enclosed patio and is on joists, and is a bit bouncy in some areas. So when I do get around to doing it, I want to rip out the sub-floor and add some joists to firm up the floor. I am assuming they built it like the deck in the back yard, and they cheaped out with the joists (they are too far apart).

I should have read the description a little better!

It sounds like a solid option. I have traffic master laminate in my house, the cheap stuff, and it has held up extremely well, so i would expect the same results from this!

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[Chili]

If we do tile the wood look a like was our choice. We are going to have to pull all the lower trim as well since the previous owner cut it for a thicker pad so hopefully edges and corners won't suck completely

Most of our baseboards were still original to the house (built in 1961), so we replaced all of the old stuff at the same time. They were also all the way to the concrete, with the carpet butted up against, so getting taller baseboards, and installing it over the floor, meant the walls did not have to be fixed.

I had previously replaced the baseboards in one room, but was able to gently remove and reuse those.

This appears to have been the original flooring in the house (was under the carpet):



Yack!

[Chili]

I should have read the description a little better!

It sounds like a solid option. I have traffic master laminate in my house, the cheap stuff, and it has held up extremely well, so i would expect the same results from this!

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Yeah, I really have no complaints after having it for a few years. Install was a bit of a PITA at first, but by the time the first couple hundred sq ft were done, I had gotten pretty good at it (well, faster, anyway).

[black2002ls]

Most of our baseboards were still original to the house (built in 1961), so we replaced all of the old stuff at the same time. They were also all the way to the concrete, with the carpet butted up against, so getting taller baseboards, and installing it over the floor, meant the walls did not have to be fixed.

I had previously replaced the baseboards in one room, but was able to gently remove and reuse those.

This appears to have been the original flooring in the house (was under the carpet):



Yack!

We did the same thing regarding base. I actually re-trimmed the whole house using 5" base boards. New trim in an old house makes a HUGE difference

Yeah, I really have no complaints after having it for a few years. Install was a bit of a PITA at first, but by the time the first couple hundred sq ft were done, I had gotten pretty good at it (well, faster, anyway).

I can imagine with the flex it was a pain to get it to lock together! I was a pro by the time I was done with our tongue and groove stuff. Though, it was a b@$!% to cut.

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[Chili]

We did the same thing regarding base. I actually re-trimmed the whole house using 5" base boards. New trim in an old house makes a HUGE difference

I can imagine with the flex it was a pain to get it to lock together! I was a pro by the time I was done with our tongue and groove stuff. Though, it was a b@$!% to cut.

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Yeah, baseboards made a HUGE improvement in looks. Unfortunately we have low ceilings (8'), so we just used the small convex trim for crown molding. We were afraid that large crown molding would make the ceilings appear lower.

One of the bedrooms and front entry way had traditional tongue in groove laminate that I pulled out. I played with that a bit and it was 10x easier than this stuff. There were a few times, in tight spots, where I had to use a block of wood and hammer to get it to seat well with this stuff.

For all of the straight cuts I just used a rafter square (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-7-...0?N=5yc1vZc97l) and box cutter (or a drywall square for lengthwise cuts). Score it with the blade using the square as a guide, bend once towards the opposite side of the score, and then back towards the cut, and it snaps right apart. I did most of the scoring on the concrete, so I did go through a fair number of blades, but those are cheap.

When I had to make irregular cuts I used the oscillating tool. That worked great but would leave some burring on the edges of the cut. All I had to do was scrape the burring off with the square (or any straight, unsharpened edge). It comes right off.