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School me on the 6.7 Ford

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  • School me on the 6.7 Ford

    Just picked up a 2016 DRW F350 6.7, 113k miles, 2900eng hrs.
    I am hearing horror stories about 10k fuel system repairs due to bad tank of gas, do I need to drop $600 on a aftermarket water separator? I am not concerned about tuning the truck has plenty of power as is, just want it to be reliable as possible, any other issues, radiators every 100k? Best oil, any additives to use, etc. This truck has a 90 gal tank in the bed too, I hear that's not ideal for the water in fuel situation.
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  • #2
    I am reading the bosch hpfp's are junk, going to use the ford additive I guess in the future to lube it as much as possible, fill up only at truck stops.
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    • #3
      are you friends with Greenbullet- Paul on facebook?
      "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
        are you friends with Greenbullet- Paul on facebook?
        I don't think so, I have his number though.
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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
          I don't think so, I have his number though.
          he works on them for a living, he can tell you what to and not to do.
          "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
            he works on them for a living, he can tell you what to and not to do.
            Awesome, thank you.
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            • #7
              Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
              Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
              I am reading the bosch hpfp's are junk, going to use the ford additive I guess in the future to lube it as much as possible, fill up only at truck stops.
              are you friends with Greenbullet- Paul on facebook?
              Just for fun, if Paul has anything to say about the Bosch CP4.2 HPFP, would you copy/paste it here? I have a feeling he's going to say use a lubricity additive, but still curious.

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              • #8
                They still got the ceramic turbo bearings that burn up in that year model?
                WH

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                • #9
                  He said drive it and do the maintenance and not worry about it, Routinely sees trucks with 300 K plus, didn’t mention using an additive either, I will probably put the Ford additive in there just for insurance
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
                    He said drive it and do the maintenance and not worry about it, Routinely sees trucks with 300 K plus, didn’t mention using an additive either, I will probably put the Ford additive in there just for insurance
                    Good to know. I have a 15 with 50k miles.
                    2015 F250 Platinum

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
                      He said drive it and do the maintenance and not worry about it, Routinely sees trucks with 300 K plus, didn’t mention using an additive either, I will probably put the Ford additive in there just for insurance
                      I have a 2011 SRW with 140K. Batteries and maintenance are all I've had to do. Do yourself a favor and use a strap wrench on the LP filter under the cab. If you use a socket you'll likely crack the housing and get a diesel bath.
                      Originally posted by Broncojohnny
                      Would you like your reparations in 5.56mm or 7.62mm?

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                      • #12
                        I put a fuel bypass kit on my brothers 2015 from Sinister diesel or someplace like that. It replaced the top portion of the pump to redirect fuel to the filter then the rails. It keeps the debris out of the lines and injectors when the fuel pump takes a shit, drastically lowering the price of the repair. That is my understanding.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Samhain View Post
                          Do yourself a favor and use a strap wrench on the LP filter under the cab. If you use a socket you'll likely crack the housing and get a diesel bath.
                          First time I changed the one on my 2011 I did exactly this, then I still couldn't get the remaining pieces off with a strap wrench. Ended up having to pull the whole pump out of the truck and put it in a vice and finally got the broken housing off.

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                          • #14
                            I have a 14, 15, and 17.

                            The oldest two are deleted.

                            I'd delete as soon as your filter or other components give you grief. I've got a 13 Dodge with 90k miles and it was cheaper to delete than repair the issues.

                            They are good trucks. Have a bud that had a 13 Ford with 220k and no out of pocket repairs. Better than my dodge that needs ball joints at 90k miles.

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                            • #15
                              Good stuff, I went ahead and got a dieselsite water separator for insurance. I need to get a full OASIS on it, the one the dealer sent me doesn't look complete but it looks like it has been a trouble free truck.
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