So, this weekend, I'm getting the truck ready for the 7.0 class

[greenbullitt]

bleh...i fucked up an an weld bung/hose end tonight..on the trucks budget, id say my mistake cost just as much lol!

[1 bad luv]

Brooks you have to use break in oil now days. comp cams has a break in additive you can add to any oil that works good...if you can not find any hollar at me I keep alot of break in oils in stock....and good luck with your project

[LS1Goat]

i saw that your engine video the other day. sucks it didn't hold together.

[greenbullitt]

i saw that your engine video the other day. sucks it didn't hold together.

Thats a different one...the one in question is the "junker" motor..the one you speak of was the nice motor

[td4087]

Brooks, how many kits were you planning on spraying to run the 7.0 class? LOL!! I'm with Bigshoe, put a Ford in it.

[Doug Hatton]

Sell it to ME before you do THAT!

bleh..You don't know how close this thign was to getting an Iron Eagle 331!

[turbostang]

i saw that your engine video the other day. sucks it didn't hold together.

Yeah, that video is the motor in my Mustang - it's 100000% correct and luckily, it's still running fine. It's a Dart IE 331.

Brooks, how many kits were you planning on spraying to run the 7.0 class? LOL!! I'm with Bigshoe, put a Ford in it.

Pfft.. it may not need much nitrous at all. It should run 7.50's on motor.

Sell it to ME before you do THAT!

It's already in the coupe

[32vfromhell]

i would just like you to know that i have not even seen nor heard of this truck, so it bursting apart at every little thing is not my fault , dammit!

[Rustang]

Check out the CamKing2000, I'm not sure if it will do all engines, but for $60.00 to have a cam broke-in without having to do it sounds pretty good.

http://camresearchcorp.com/

[shumpertdavid]

I've got a buddy that used to work at the machine shop we use in Midland, we broke the solid flat tappet cam (shaunT grind) in with some break in specific oil. Even with it you still risk flattening a lobe. The first 20 minutes is critical to whether on not the cam is going to have a chance at living. From what I understand, the chemicals that have been removed from the oils form a kind of ceramic like coating on the lobes and lifter base. This coating is what give keeps them from wearing and it's formed during the initial breakin cycle. It's well worth the extra $ to help ensure a good breakin. I hate having to redo work.

[Blue68]

Use the Joe Gibbs break in oil,you can buy it at Smileys.The VR1 does not have zinc and neither does the rotella.If the oil has the SAE stamp on it there is no Zinc.You should also use a additive in all oil changes after for longevity of the cam.If you have double springs pull the inner out for break-in,its a pain but it will break-in correctly if you use these steps.Trust me been there done that.