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Old 12-03-2019, 08:48 AM   #141
4bangen
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Man, I feel for you with how accident prone this car has been over the last year, but, perhaps a little of that is self-induced. That car is parked at the end of a driveway right where someone backing out would have to really pay attention not to hit it. Not a good place to park a car that you care about.

Our neighborhood has wide streets with all of the driveways 2 cars wide, but I hate it when the people across the street park that way. It isn't too hard to get the front drive cars out, but backing the '92 F150 out when the driveway is full is a biatch!
I agree it's not a good place to park. I never park any of my cars in that spot. The mustangs and the ranger are always in the driveway. The only reason the car was there was so I could get the Buick out of the garage. I parked the car on the street, walked back up to the house to pull the Buick out and in that short time is when the kid backed his little focus strait into my car. It wasn't even there for 5 minutes.
Now when I need to get the Buick out I move the mustang to the front yard. The only vehicle I have on the street is the van, because go ahead and hit it! Ironically its the only car I own that's never been hit.

but to continue my luck, my AC compressor went out last week. lol, I seriously thought about trading this thing in recently. I like driving it, but man everything has gone wrong! we've got 70k miles on the grey 15 GT and have had zero mechanical issues. this one doesn't even have 50k on it and now the AC is out. FML

I may just go back to driving the damn van! Also been impossible to keep it clean lately with the weather and all the construction in Denton. I hope to have time to wash it soon. Then there's the $1k it's going to cost me to get the AC fixed.

oh well, it's still a neat looking car. I'm going to try and repair the front bumper myself soon, if it works cool, if not I will just buy a new one and have it painted. I've also thought about having it wrapped or dipped. I'd like a flat white purl or something on it. Something to protect the paint with all this construction. My buddy just ordered a plasti dip car sprayer kit. We are going to play with it at my place because he doesn't have a garage. We shall see.

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Old 12-03-2019, 09:12 AM   #142
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The compressor at Rock Auto is a FoMoCo unit and its around $279.xx new, some cheaper. Its not hard to replace yourself, if its an auto, you will have to take out from the bottom and it will require you to remove the stabilizer bar to get it out. The reason for this is the auto tranny cooling hoses have to be removed to take it out from the top. I did it in my garage on my GT in a few hours. Then just pull a vac and refill with freon.
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:18 AM   #143
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The compressor at Rock Auto is a FoMoCo unit and its around $279.xx new, some cheaper. Its not hard to replace yourself, if its an auto, you will have to take out from the bottom and it will require you to remove the stabilizer bar to get it out. The reason for this is the auto tranny cooling hoses have to be removed to take it out from the top. I did it in my garage on my GT in a few hours. Then just pull a vac and refill with freon.
You didn't change anything else? mine started groaning with engine rpm, then quit on me. I asume you have to replace the dryer and orifice tube and stuff along with it right?
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:18 AM   #144
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Is AC failure common on the 15 and newer cars?
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Old 12-03-2019, 09:25 AM   #145
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Is AC failure common on the 15 and newer cars?
yes
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Old 12-03-2019, 10:31 AM   #146
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yes
I had the one in my '17 replaced under warranty, no groaning noise though, I'd have to pull the invoice to see what exactly was fixed.

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Old 12-03-2019, 11:05 AM   #147
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Compressor, drier, and expansion valve would be my recommendation at minimum and I'd recommend a condenser as well. Any debris, trash, compressor guts that comes out of the compressor goes into the condenser. The passages are small and it doesn't flow through like a long snake as condensers did back with r12. The parallel flow condenser in newer cars don't flush. Here's a youtube video that gives a quick explanation, though no very in depth it gets the point across. The second link gives you a better look at how the flushing is not nearly effective enough. Even with the machine they are advertising in the video, it doesn't give a solid flow of liquid through all of the paths.

In regards to filling the system yourself, I'd recommend at least letting a shop do the refill with an A\c machine to ensure you get the correct charge amount. R-134-A doesn't blend or mix with the refrigerant oil like R-12 did. The liquid R-134-A picks the oil up and carries it in suspension as it moves through the system. In a gaseous state it will move a little oil but it's minimal. The point of this is to explain that when the charge amount is off by as little as 10% of system capacity it can reduce system lubrication by 40-50%. The reason is because the lower refrigerant charge amount will cause the evaporator to hold excessive oil when the liquid turns into a gaseous state before it can exit the outlet side. This is in an orifice tube system with an accumulator mounted after the evaporator. An expansion valve/block system operates a little different, but the concept is still the same. You end up with oil accumulation in the evaporator (it doesn't need any lubrication there), and a compressor that is starved of oil (the only part that relies on lubrication to survive.

I'm not here to argue that you can't do it at home, that you won't be able to get the charge amount with in that 10% window of full without actually overfilling the sytem, or that you can't save the money of the a\c service. I'm simply trying to inform you that it"s difficult to do and trying to charge R-134-A based solely on pressures doesn't accurately provide assurance of correct charging because R-134-A pressures are strongly affected by outside temperatures, humidity levels, etc. The same goes for vacuuming the sytem down. You need to be able to pull a minimum of 29.5" of vacuum and I'd recommend at least an hour and a half on a system replacement like what you'll likely be doing, and that's on a day where the temps are 75+ and humidity is relatively low.

There's a lot of science that goes into function, pressures, how the system performs in various temperatures and weather. I understand some of it, and trust the experience and information I've been thought over the years. I have enough experience working with auto a\c to know how easy it is to have a comeback even when we do everything by the book and to the best of our abilities and equipment. I'd hate to gamble the longevity of the repair and parts on saving the cost of a condenser and the cost of an a\c service and fill.

1800Radiator.com has pretty fair pricing on kits. I can't vouch for the quality of the parts as I try to buy through my local parts stores so if I need to warranty something or have issues I can handle in the same day most times, but I've used the radiators and condensers in years past without issue.





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Old 12-03-2019, 12:15 PM   #148
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Compressor, drier, and expansion valve would be my recommendation at minimum and I'd recommend a condenser as well. Any debris, trash, compressor guts that comes out of the compressor goes into the condenser. The passages are small and it doesn't flow through like a long snake as condensers did back with r12. The parallel flow condenser in newer cars don't flush. Here's a youtube video that gives a quick explanation, though no very in depth it gets the point across. The second link gives you a better look at how the flushing is not nearly effective enough. Even with the machine they are advertising in the video, it doesn't give a solid flow of liquid through all of the paths.

In regards to filling the system yourself, I'd recommend at least letting a shop do the refill with an A\c machine to ensure you get the correct charge amount. R-134-A doesn't blend or mix with the refrigerant oil like R-12 did. The liquid R-134-A picks the oil up and carries it in suspension as it moves through the system. In a gaseous state it will move a little oil but it's minimal. The point of this is to explain that when the charge amount is off by as little as 10% of system capacity it can reduce system lubrication by 40-50%. The reason is because the lower refrigerant charge amount will cause the evaporator to hold excessive oil when the liquid turns into a gaseous state before it can exit the outlet side. This is in an orifice tube system with an accumulator mounted after the evaporator. An expansion valve/block system operates a little different, but the concept is still the same. You end up with oil accumulation in the evaporator (it doesn't need any lubrication there), and a compressor that is starved of oil (the only part that relies on lubrication to survive.

I'm not here to argue that you can't do it at home, that you won't be able to get the charge amount with in that 10% window of full without actually overfilling the sytem, or that you can't save the money of the a\c service. I'm simply trying to inform you that it"s difficult to do and trying to charge R-134-A based solely on pressures doesn't accurately provide assurance of correct charging because R-134-A pressures are strongly affected by outside temperatures, humidity levels, etc. The same goes for vacuuming the sytem down. You need to be able to pull a minimum of 29.5" of vacuum and I'd recommend at least an hour and a half on a system replacement like what you'll likely be doing, and that's on a day where the temps are 75+ and humidity is relatively low.

There's a lot of science that goes into function, pressures, how the system performs in various temperatures and weather. I understand some of it, and trust the experience and information I've been thought over the years. I have enough experience working with auto a\c to know how easy it is to have a comeback even when we do everything by the book and to the best of our abilities and equipment. I'd hate to gamble the longevity of the repair and parts on saving the cost of a condenser and the cost of an a\c service and fill.

1800Radiator.com has pretty fair pricing on kits. I can't vouch for the quality of the parts as I try to buy through my local parts stores so if I need to warranty something or have issues I can handle in the same day most times, but I've used the radiators and condensers in years past without issue.





That was very informative. I've always steered clear of A/C in the past, maybe I should stick to that rule. lol
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Old 12-03-2019, 05:44 PM   #149
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Aside from a disconnect tool or something like that, you should be able to replace the basic parts with tools in your driveway. Flushing of the lines and evaporator core are recommended if you've had a mechanical failure (most of the new style evaporator cores are built like the condensers and they recommend they be replaced as well), but you can do the parts swapping (make sure to add the proper amounts of pag oil to the compressor and condenser before installation) and then just have a shop perform the vacuum and fill procedure.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:10 AM   #150
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I'll be moving in a few months hopefully, Time to get out of the little crap rental house I've been in for the last 11 years. Tentative plan now is after the move if I can get a decent trade on the Blanca Pinata, I'm going to swap it out for a new 4 door ranger. I'll drive that for a few years until the kid gets her license and hand it over to her. After that I'll just swap between the van, ranger, and Buick for my daily commute. Or hell by that point I might ditch those 3 cars and get something like a GT350, or something else I never knew I wanted.
I like the look of the new Ranger, and we really need a 4 door anyway. This seems like the best plan as of right now. I'll miss my little demolition derby car, but at the same time I wont.

Then again maybe I won't get rid of it. my mind goes back and forth every other time I drive it. I'm going to have to decide something before summer, and the lack of A/C starts really sucking.
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Old 02-13-2020, 12:29 PM   #151
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You didn't change anything else? mine started groaning with engine rpm, then quit on me. I asume you have to replace the dryer and orifice tube and stuff along with it right?
Sorry, never saw this post.

NO, I did not change anything other than the compressor, mine simply locked up, not noise no nothing. It just quit working, I had a 2012 5.0 and they were failing because of the "stretchy belt" that put to much tension on the compressor pulley neck.
I just changed the compressor because when I took my lines off there was no metal shavings/trash in the lines, not even in the oil that came out.
I re-installed it, pulled a vacuum for a couple of hours, it held on the gauges and I refilled with 134a and of course PAG oil in the compressor. It worked the rest of the summer and it continues to run to this day.
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Old 02-14-2020, 06:17 AM   #152
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Aside from a disconnect tool or something like that, you should be able to replace the basic parts with tools in your driveway. Flushing of the lines and evaporator core are recommended if you've had a mechanical failure (most of the new style evaporator cores are built like the condensers and they recommend they be replaced as well), but you can do the parts swapping (make sure to add the proper amounts of pag oil to the compressor and condenser before installation) and then just have a shop perform the vacuum and fill procedure.
Given the price of those parts, most people probably just buy new and toss the old ones in the aluminum scrap pile. To be hauled off and sold to the scrap yard several years later. Imo it's better to have a new part, than have a cleaned up old part that may develop a pin hole a year later.
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:55 PM   #153
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They might buy a new evaporator core, but replacing it is usually a pretty hefty undertaking. Most all newer vehicles (by newer I mean mid 90's and up) require the dash to be removed to access the HVAC housing for replacement.

My recommendations come from doing repair work for others and our experience with part failures and what's required by the parts suppliers for part warranty. If a person specifies they just want a compressor installed and they don't want the additional expense, I will do that in most cases. They also get a big fat NO WARRANTY on their ticket as I'm not eating the parts the parts store won't cover.
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Old 02-21-2020, 10:59 AM   #154
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Going to go drive this tomorrow. If I like it, and the deal works out I'll trade the cursestang in on it. Also going to drive a 4x4 in comparison. It would be nice to have a 4 door. I've only owned one since my daughter has been alive. lol


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Old 02-22-2020, 03:39 PM   #155
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Going to go drive this tomorrow. If I like it, and the deal works out I'll trade the cursestang in on it. Also going to drive a 4x4 in comparison. It would be nice to have a 4 door. I've only owned one since my daughter has been alive. lol


I had the 4x4 rig as a rental this past week, and was underwhelmed. Didn't do anything but drive to the hotel and back to the airport, and even then it was noisy, sluggish, and had a super bouncy ride. Hopefully the 2x is a way better highway truck.

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Old 02-23-2020, 10:43 PM   #156
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I’ll post pics of my new ranger tomorrow. I literally bought a truck and got the flu the next day.
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