First paint job in progress......

[Baba Ganoush]

Well I'm just about finished. I still have some compounding and fitment to do but it's looking pretty decent for a garage paint job. I need to get some parts to put the rest of the trim on.








Not bad for my first time. I had some issues with the base coat laying down too thin in some areas, and some what i guess was solvent pop (little craters) in the clear that took some good sanding to get out. After the clear was on it was easy. Not perfect but it's not a show car. One of those showed up Wednesday, assembly to start next week.

[kennybo]

OMNI materials = faded out paint job within 3 years. OMNI is cheap garbage that has almost no UV protection. I give you much credit for at least attempting to take on this challenge though. When you have to repaint it in 2-3 years, spend the money ($1000) on good materials from Dupont or PPG and you won't have to do it again.

[sdun]

You can use your da w/ an interface pad(thin foam) and 1500 3m tri-zac dry followed by 3000 tri-zac used with a spray bottle. Use just enough water to make a good lather. Then you can buff with the 3m system the pads are numbered 1-2-and 3 the compounds are numbered with corasponding numbers. Use the #1 pad with the #1 compound etc... They make it idiot proof, kinda. tape your edges till you get some experience.

[Rick Modena]

Most clears that you would use in a garage are not a real high solid and designed to dry pretty fast. I agree on blocking the whole thing with 1k and putting on 2 more coats. In the future use 3 coats the first time and buff.

With a lot of the clears I use in a bake booth you just use 2 coats, I never go with 3 with the high solid clears.

The man speaks the truth, after the next two coats though I wouldn't go with anything less than 1200k or 1500 and then buff away with a 3M white pad.

[sdun]

Most clears that you would use in a garage are not a real high solid and designed to dry pretty fast. I agree on blocking the whole thing with 1k and putting on 2 more coats. In the future use 3 coats the first time and buff.

With a lot of the clears I use in a bake booth you just use 2 coats, I never go with 3 with the high solid clears.

[projectPONY]

I have it wet sanded to 1000 right now. I compounded a small area and it looks great. I'm just wondering if after the 2 medium coats of clear, and some 1000 blocking if there is enough clear left to just step up grits, buff and polish. I know it will have some peel, that's cool. I'm only out a few hundred bucks for the whole job. Well I plan to be finished soon and start my other project, in which paint is the ONLY thing done.

I'm sure many people will tell you that the two coats are in enough, but I'd be leary about it. I was taught to always lay down 3 good coats at the very least. if I were you, I would concentrate on getting the clear you have really nice and flat with 1000 grit and shoot another 2 goats on it. cut and buff again and you should have something really nice and deep.

[Baba Ganoush]

I have it wet sanded to 1000 right now. I compounded a small area and it looks great. I'm just wondering if after the 2 medium coats of clear, and some 1000 blocking if there is enough clear left to just step up grits, buff and polish. I know it will have some peel, that's cool. I'm only out a few hundred bucks for the whole job. Well I plan to be finished soon and start my other project, in which paint is the ONLY thing done.

[mstng86]

I say it looks fine. Wet sand it, buff it, and be done.

[projectPONY]

If you decide to re-shoot the clear the car will have to be sanded. you would need to wet sand it as if your were going to buff it with 1000 grit. you have to make sure that all the clear is sanded flat, otherwise any orange peel you leave behind will show up in the new clear. even though you sand the new clear super flat and buff it out, a keen eye will pick up on the orange peel under it.

for garage jobs orange peel is not a bad thing IMO. it just means you WILL have to wet sand and buff, so keeping it to a minimum would be great. where orange peel really becomes a problem is in production shops where through put is priority.

[Baba Ganoush]

Update:

Well I chose to seal it and I then laid down 3 coats of OMNI base, followed by two medium coats of high solids urethane clear.








Clear coating is tough. I'm learning with every pass. I sprayed some test areas over the base in the trunk to see how fast it would yellow. I knew this was a risk, so i was careful not to pile it on. The end result was descent in most areas, but some need attention.








This is the first time to do ANY of this, so I'm finding myself doing everything TWICE lol. I'm learning so much about the process, and where the attention pays off. I let it cure and the next weekend I wet blocked it out once with 1000. I need to touch a few areas up with some base and clear, and I'm debating on how much MORE clear to spray.







Question: Should I re-coat clear? I'll admit some areas need a redo, but how should I recoat? I have plenty of clear left, and I'm debating on re-shooting the whole thing now. I only shot two medium coats, and sanded pretty nicely to 1000, but I'm thinking it may benefit from more coats. It would be another reason to spray the rest of the material. Any Advice?

[projectPONY]

Sealer is just a crutch for bad prep work. Unless you are using Dupont. Dupont requires sealer to cover.

not true, although some colors to benefit from a sealer to cover quicker, but is somewhat of a crutch.

[joe50]

Sealer is just a crutch for bad prep work. Unless you are using Dupont. Dupont requires sealer to cover.

[sdun]

Paint it all white and after the clear cures mask off the areas you want black w/ fine line tape scuff them w/ grey scotchbright pad and paint them black.

[Baba Ganoush]

Looks lke you've done the hard part. Be sure and post pics. I'm always interested in seeing quality garage paint jobs. Good luck!

Yes, the hard part is done thank god! I did massive amounts of body work on this thing. So much that I'm thrilled at the way it looks even now. I'll start a thread when I'm finished with all the details and my before/after shots. It should be interesting to see how it will turn out.

I've got another project in the paint shop now that is taking forever, but now I know why. I should have this beast finished by the end of the month, and starting on a '66 coupe.

[Swamp Donkey]

Looks lke you've done the hard part. Be sure and post pics. I'm always interested in seeing quality garage paint jobs. Good luck!