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  • CJ
    replied
    As far as value, the Saker is out. That can is specifically designed for short barrels (<10.5") and full auto fire. That's where the money goes with that kind of can. It's also one of the most expensive .223 cans on the market. ($1,000+) Also the MAAD mount (albeit a little cumbersome at times) is one of the few QD's that truly has no point of impact change (meaning your impact changes when the can is installed, usually you sight your gun in with or without the can and choose which you shoot it with). So you get what you pay for, but if it's going to be on standard length rifles and semi auto, you can save money. I would suggest trying a few cans out and seeing what you want. The important things to consider is the weight (do you want a 1.5lb weight hanging 16" off the end of your rifle?), it's length, and it's attachment method. You can save money on any one of those. I personally really prefer light cans if I can get them. Attachment really isn't that important to me. The Gemtech's are cheap, that's a bonus, but also consider the price of the QD brakes (you have to buy one for every gun you plan to shoot it with). Whereas the saker's brakes are fairly cheap compared to some (see SAS, $135 each compared to Silencerco $60 each). So initial cost may end up biting you in the ass in the long run. If budget is the primary concern, buying a direct thread on suppressor is cheaper and lighter. You just have to keep a wrench around to remove/install your flash hiders. It will also allow you to install it on a .22LR if you choose to.
    Last edited by CJ; 09-09-2014, 04:25 PM.

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  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Any can that would live on the Tavor will be too heavy for the pistol.

    Sparrow for .22lr
    Gemtech G5 or Saker for the Tavor.

    Come to ShootSmart in Fort Worth and I will let you shoot my G5 and a 22lr can.

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  • CJ
    replied
    The problem you will run into is .22LR is cast (or plated) and it throws a ton of slag into the can. Whereas rifle cans (.223) are true jacketed bullets, meaning they don't really have much of any slag. Because of that and the pressures of the higher caliber, .223 cans are generally not serviceable, and the ones that are generally yield a not hearing safe dB. So, you'll be shooting lead into a can you can't clean it out of. That's not a good thing. That's why most people buy a .22 can first. Now if you want the most use for the money, there is an order to buy cans. You always start with the largest caliber first, because you can fire sub calibers through them. The order I would recommend buying cans in is as follows:

    .22LR (suppresses .22, some more expensive cans can do .22WM, 5.7mm also)
    .308 (suppresses all popular rifle calibers, .223, .308, .300mag, .300blk, .270, .243, etc.)
    .45 (supresses all popular pistol calibers, .38, 9mm, .40, 10mm, .45, .45LC, .357 sig, etc)
    .223 (only .223)
    9mm (only 9mm and .300blk subsonic)
    .40 (only .40, 9mm)
    Last edited by CJ; 09-09-2014, 04:23 PM.

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  • Chili
    started a topic Suppressor question / advice

    Suppressor question / advice

    I know very little about all of this, so I am coming to the experts for advice. I would like a suppressor for a .223, and for a .22 pistol. Is it possible to buy one that will work for both (even if not the 100% best option)? If so, what would you recommend?

    .223 would either be an AR or Tavor (or both) and pistol would likely be a Ruger MKIII 22/45 lite.

    Does not have to the best ever, nor the cheapest ever. Think best value.
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