Interesting problem - pistol length gas block on midlength rail?

[CJ]

Okay, how about this: you drill a hole in the rail matching the position of the small depress button. This will allow you to depress with minimal modification to the gun.

Maybe you can find an extra knob and play around with welding an hex head to it, dead center and straight that is. Then you can clean it up and what not to make it look nice for your satisfatction?

This would work but would still be a two step process that is much more cumbersom than the current process although it would solve your problem...

There just has to be a better way.

If Adam's Arms would ever answer my phone call I would bitch so much they'd invent a new product.

[Gtracer]

yeah that's exactly what I mentioned in my first post, a socket extension essentially. You have to depress the detent to spin it. You could angle/knife the detent so when you slip a socket into it, it depresses it.

Okay, how about this: you drill a hole in the rail matching the position of the small depress button. This will allow you to depress with minimal modification to the gun.

Maybe you can find an extra knob and play around with welding an hex head to it, dead center and straight that is. Then you can clean it up and what not to make it look nice for your satisfatction?

This would work but would still be a two step process that is much more cumbersom than the current process although it would solve your problem...

[CJ]

You know I was thinking of a plunger for a toilet...if you can attach a cupped piece of silicone to a wood or metal dowel rod then you could essentially slip the silicone/rubber over the knob.

Only problem with that theory is that the housing seems to have notches in it where that small screw would slide into position which means that you would have to pull the Big knob outward and then spin, correct?

If this is the case then you can’t use a "plunger" or a screw driver. It would seem that you actually need to get some fingers on there to make an adjustment.

yeah that's exactly what I mentioned in my first post, a socket extension essentially. You have to depress the detent to spin it. You could angle/knife the detent so when you slip a socket into it, it depresses it.

Cut a little at a time, smooth out the edges and maybe, if your a true DFWM baller, you can powder coat the rail black so you do not see any of the cut/filing marks?

If you do it right you shouldn't mar the finish, and you could just use some flat/satin paint to cover the aluminum that's exposed. I could just put a 4" pistol handguard on it, but damn that looks like shit.

I might just replicate the Hera Arm's SBR exactly. If I used the mid length MOE handguard I could just pop it off and adjust it. Come to think of it... are there any 2 piece free float rails on the market?

[Gtracer]

That's the only thing I can come up with that really solves the problem, but it would look like shit. I guess I could put a rail cover over it, but just feels like a cop out. And I hate rail covers.

Cut a little at a time, smooth out the edges and maybe, if your a true DFWM baller, you can powder coat the rail black so you do not see any of the cut/filing marks?

[Gtracer]

You know I was thinking of a plunger for a toilet...if you can attach a cupped piece of silicone to a wood or metal dowel rod then you could essentially slip the silicone/rubber over the knob.

Only problem with that theory is that the housing seems to have notches in it where that small screw would slide into position which means that you would have to pull the Big knob outward and then spin, correct?

If this is the case then you can’t use a "plunger" or a screw driver. It would seem that you actually need to get some fingers on there to make an adjustment.

[CJ]

After looking at the pic this is close to what I was thinking. Is there anyway you can cut a small section of the rail out almost as an "access hole" right above this section?

That's the only thing I can come up with that really solves the problem, but it would look like shit. I guess I could put a rail cover over it, but just feels like a cop out. And I hate rail covers.

[Gtracer]

can you extend the detent radially so that it you could machine a slot in the rail and rotate it with the detent? I'm assuming that looking at it from the barrel there are 3 settings, at 3,9 and 12 oclock. You could mill a slot in the top of the rail and have the lever protrude the rail 3mm or so, it wouldn't get caught on shit, but you might be able to rotate it by hand.

After looking at the pic this is close to what I was thinking. Is there anyway you can cut a small section of the rail out almost as an "access hole" right above this section?

[CJ]

can you extend the detent radially so that it you could machine a slot in the rail and rotate it with the detent? I'm assuming that looking at it from the barrel there are 3 settings, at 3,9 and 12 oclock. You could mill a slot in the top of the rail and have the lever protrude the rail 3mm or so, it wouldn't get caught on shit, but you might be able to rotate it by hand.

That's another thing I've considered, but I'd have to cut a 90* slot across my rail and I couldn't remove it when I need to slide the piston out.

[ThreeFingerPete]

can you extend the detent radially so that it you could machine a slot in the rail and rotate it with the detent? I'm assuming that looking at it from the barrel there are 3 settings, at 3,9 and 12 oclock. You could mill a slot in the top of the rail and have the lever protrude the rail 3mm or so, it wouldn't get caught on shit, but you might be able to rotate it by hand.

[CJ]

You have a pic of said issue?

Here is the low profile gas block I will be using. You can see the rounded portion protrude from that custom rail. The problem is that the rail I'm using is 4" longer than that one, so it will continue past it.



middle one.

[CJ]

but what happens when the threaded section becomes "stuck" and you cant get the rod out without removing the knob....and then you have to find a way to get the knob back into the housing...just a thought

I don't know how the rod would get stuck? Another thing is cleaning the piston setup you have to remove the knob, so I'd have to pull it... so the threaded rod seems like the best solution.

Damnit, stupid ass problem.

[Gtracer]

You have a pic of said issue?

[Gtracer]

hmm.. maybe I could drill and tap the knob and use a threaded rod to extend it? Hmm.

but what happens when the threaded section becomes "stuck" and you cant get the rod out without removing the knob....and then you have to find a way to get the knob back into the housing...just a thought

[CJ]

hmm.. maybe I could drill and tap the knob and use a threaded rod to extend it? Hmm. I'd rather not carry around tools to use my rifle.

[Gtracer]

Yeah that's a better idea than my over engineered hex idea.

Your trying to make it too purty and functional. If a screwdriver and a small cut is all it takes...