1990 Coupe - 'budget' turbo kit

[Big Thumper]

That angle of the tabs is acutally perfect.

The car is looking good.

[dville_gt]

Yea I agree, I figured the car wouldn't compress no more than a few inches on launch so I'm hoping how we set it it should be enough clearance, if not cutting the turn buckle rods down would be an alternative. Here's a peak :-)

http://

damn, them coil overs look clean

[5.0 n it]

Yea I agree, I figured the car wouldn't compress no more than a few inches on launch so I'm hoping how we set it it should be enough clearance, if not cutting the turn buckle rods down would be an alternative. Here's a peak :-)

http://

[dville_gt]

I had to restrain myself from welding the top, just in case I ever wanted to take it out of the car. Welding from that easy positoin would make a VERY good weld, and a bitch to cut back out.

brooks...tisk tisk! (although in retrospect i think "outside edges" was misunderstood, i welded just the "outside edges" that are easy to cut off) (i.e. the bottom and rear "outside edges")

what's the consensus on welding the plates on all sides vs. just the outside edges so if it ever has to come out it wont be "such" a bitch

They're all outside edges.

If you have any idea of taking it out, It's not for you. Put it in as if it's never coming out of the car and don't look back. If for some reason it moved because of a partial welding job, you'll have fun 'making it right'.

[turbostang]

I bet without the trunk floor pan being there it made installing that sway bar a lot easier. I jus helped a buddy install a Wolfe double sway bar on my 95 that wasnt too much of a pain, but I notice where you have the tabs welded on the tubes are more at a angle than mine. What's a good amount of clearance between the sway bar arms and the floor pan?

man, I don't know that there's a 100% right answer for that. I went back and looked at it after I put them on and questioned their position - but regardless, it will work. At the very least I can shorten the links to bring the bars away from the floor (which should be the only real problem).

Yeah, the floor bieng gone sure made it easy. I had to restrain myself from welding the top, just in case I ever wanted to take it out of the car. Welding from that easy positoin would make a VERY good weld, and a bitch to cut back out.

[dville_gt]

but I notice where you have the tabs welded on the tubes are more at a angle than mine.

I noticed this too, mine are just slightly above pointing straight back. I am sure there is a reason for this though if Brooks did it this way (not his first rodeo).

[turbostang]

I bet without the trunk floor pan being there it made installing that sway bar a lot easier. I jus helped a buddy install a Wolfe double sway bar on my 95 that wasnt too much of a pain, but I notice where you have the tabs welded on the tubes are more at a angle than mine. What's a good amount of clearance between the sway bar arms and the floor pan?

man, I don't know that there's a 100% right answer for that. I went back and looked at it after I put them on and questioned their position - but regardless, it will work. At the very least I can shorten the links to bring the bars away from the floor (which should be the only real problem).

Yeah, the floor bieng gone sure made it easy. I had to restrain myself from welding the top, just in case I ever wanted to take it out of the car. Welding from that easy positoin would make a VERY good weld, and a bitch to cut back out.

[5.0 n it]

I bet without the trunk floor pan being there it made installing that sway bar a lot easier. I jus helped a buddy install a Wolfe double sway bar on my 95 that wasnt too much of a pain, but I notice where you have the tabs welded on the tubes are more at a angle than mine. What's a good amount of clearance between the sway bar arms and the floor pan?

[slowbrick2]

I know you dont need help but I m offering.

[turbostang]

So what is next?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk

Man, I don't know where to start.

I have some work to do this week- so won't get much done on the car. Next weekend bieng the cruise pretty much rules Saturday out too.

I was going to put the dash in, but have to adjust/change the brake rod - so that might not happen yet.

I have a large list of shit to do

*Fire system mount
*seat brackets
*trunk floor/fuel cell mount
*fuel pump mount
*plumbing
*accessory wiring
*fender aprons
*boost controller
*exhaust
*paint cage
*seat belt mounts

...and the list goes on and on.

[KBScobravert]

So what is next?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk

[turbostang]

Quite a bit done since the last update, but not all shown in this post. As I said earlier, the wiring for the majority of the chassis is done, but now it's complete. No pics of that. I can say that there's a HUGE amount of stock wires that can be removed in a car like this. I think there's a grand total of 5-6 wires that go to the back of the car now. You can see in the first pic. Also shown are the new brake lines, sway bar installed and some more torque box welding was done too. If you look REAL close, you can see the bars off of the cage sticking through the upper torque box.





last but not least, the tubing nightmare that is under the drivers side fender. It's the proportioning valve, line lock and brake switch all in one.

[Clifton]

Are you done yet?

[geronimo]

Looking good Brooks

[bigshoe]

Are you done yet?