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1990 Coupe - 'budget' turbo kit

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  • 93mcobra
    replied
    very nice work

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  • turbostang
    replied
    cage is done, sans some welding on the back bars. The back bars were 'incorrect' for my application - apparently bent for minitubs. No problem, at some point in time it will actually get minitubs. The only thing that was remotely problematic was that the bars are bent to clear the tubs - which puts them pretty far in board. There's no place to put the bottom of the drivers side since it lands out in the open part of the spare tire well. Resolution: Add a cross bar between frame rails as if it were already minitubbed. All I had to do was cut holes and a slot in the spare tire well for access.

    Pics to follow.

    Leave a comment:


  • onjacks
    replied
    Massage your hotside??

    I knew you'd come around! LOL

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  • jason07
    replied
    Those welds don't look very good.

    Having said that I still need you to build my cold side and massage my hot side.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mysticcobrakilla
    replied
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    No, I haven't done one yet - mainly because for cars like that, there's a number of vendors you can buy from to make 'street car' type HP. For those kinds of cars, it's not worth it for the owner to pay me to make them - not when there's 'off the shelf kits' to do that... and for what they sell them for, the tubing usually costs me more than that..

    Now, that's not to say that I won't do that kind of stuff in the future. I've entertained buying a mandrel bender (@45K)... but that's still on down the road. I want to race at least a season first
    I can certainly understand that.

    Just thought I would ask, I'd like to see one if you did.

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  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Mysticcobrakilla View Post
    Brooks, have you done a turbo kit in a s-197? I'd like to see what ideas you have/had for one.


    This thread makes me want to gut my junker and go turbo. Keep the updates rolling in.
    No, I haven't done one yet - mainly because for cars like that, there's a number of vendors you can buy from to make 'street car' type HP. For those kinds of cars, it's not worth it for the owner to pay me to make them - not when there's 'off the shelf kits' to do that... and for what they sell them for, the tubing usually costs me more than that..

    Now, that's not to say that I won't do that kind of stuff in the future. I've entertained buying a mandrel bender (@45K)... but that's still on down the road. I want to race at least a season first

    Leave a comment:


  • Mysticcobrakilla
    replied
    Brooks, have you done a turbo kit in a s-197? I'd like to see what ideas you have/had for one.


    This thread makes me want to gut my junker and go turbo. Keep the updates rolling in.

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Here's the nights work. All of the joints that were tacked are now welded - to give you an idea of what has to be done to get to the backside of some of those joints...







    ...gratuitous bead shot.



    and last but not least, it's all done minus the back bars and torque box bars.

    Leave a comment:


  • 80coupe
    replied
    nice work, one day id like to be able to do this lol.

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  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
    Yeah, its not easy to descibe very well in the text. Bassically, before you put in the rocker or door bars, you start. with the main hoop, tack the A's, and then holesaw the floorboads from the under side, so that those 4 points can go through the floor, and you end up with quite a bit of space on the tops.

    Or the other option is a plith, witch do a great job of spreading the load out between the floor and the rockers, and the rockers are the stronger points, so they are stronger, in theory.
    That's what I did, but I don't have floor plates - i have the square tube ttsfc's. Basically I put in every bar I could to keep the cage as rigid as possible when I knocked it loose. I Welded the tops and put it back in place.

    Originally posted by Chas_svo View Post
    Ok Brooks, is there anything you aren't good at?

    This is looking good. I've got to make it out to see this thing in person.
    Lol, I've done this shit for a LONG time and fucked up a lot of shit in the process, I had to get better sooner or later thanks for the props, you're welcome to check it out when ever.

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  • Chas_svo
    replied
    Ok Brooks, is there anything you aren't good at?

    This is looking good. I've got to make it out to see this thing in person.

    Leave a comment:


  • Baron Von Crowder
    replied
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    I'm not really following you - but, with these SFC's and pre-bent cage, it's the only way to get to the top.
    Yeah, its not easy to descibe very well in the text. Bassically, before you put in the rocker or door bars, you start. with the main hoop, tack the A's, and then holesaw the floorboads from the under side, so that those 4 points can go through the floor, and you end up with quite a bit of space on the tops.

    Or the other option is a plith, witch do a great job of spreading the load out between the floor and the rockers, and the rockers are the stronger points, so they are stronger, in theory.

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Zfan View Post
    Damn that car has really come around since the last time I was at your place. One sweet set up you have built Brooks! Post up when she is going to make her maiden voyage at the track!

    Mike
    Thanks Mike!

    I hope to make A race in late March, beginning of April.

    Leave a comment:


  • Zfan
    replied
    Damn that car has really come around since the last time I was at your place. One sweet set up you have built Brooks! Post up when she is going to make her maiden voyage at the track!

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
    Brooks, I've never used a pre-bent cage, so that may be the difference, but we bent the main hoop, and then the A pillar and cross bars, and then cut holes in thew floor so that the whole thing can go down to weld it all up. One welded, raise it all back upn and slide the spreader plates under the bars, and weld them up.

    That may not work with your subframes, etc, but I figured I'd throw it outh there.
    I'm not really following you - but, with these SFC's and pre-bent cage, it's the only way to get to the top.

    Leave a comment:

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