Originally posted by fordracing19
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70' Chevelle RagTop
(Forever Under Construction)
"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”- Thomas A Edison
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Originally posted by Rreemo View PostThey should've use a lot more dirt and raised my foundation more, it's so low in one of the front corners that I've had some flooding issues with all of the rain we've had this year...I'm going to have to do a French drain or something to fix that. The windows are also terrible, a couple of them were leaking really bad pretty much any time it rained. I had a hard time getting them back out so tended to them myself, and after several attempts I've just about got them sealed up....when we get a heavy rain, though, I still get a little puddle under one of them. The big thing that I'm not at all happy about is that they only put one horizontal c-purlin on my walls, at 7'....and I just didn't realize it at the time, but now that I've paid more attention to some friends shops, I see that I should've also had one running 4' height as well. Not just for the added stability, but it also gives you that extra shelf to put stuff. Their foreman also talked me into having my walk-thru door open outward, when I had already stated specifically that I wanted it to open inward...his reasoning was that it would seal better that way, and also the space that it takes up inside when open. What he didn't think about was the wind that we get out here and how much it blows that damned door around, being opened outside....and it also really sucks when it rains because the inside of my door gets soaked if I leave it open while it's raining...which then ends up all inside my entry way once I close the door. I'd much rather lose the little bit of space inside to have it open inward.Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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Originally posted by Mach1 View PostGood feedback for sure, I asked about the horizontals and he said one a 4' and another between that and the top, I went with a 14' roof, how high is yours? I paid $1400 for dirt work for them to build my pad for the foundation pour, it's pretty damn high, hopefully no flooding issues there.70' Chevelle RagTop
(Forever Under Construction)
"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”- Thomas A Edison
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Originally posted by Rreemo View PostI've got 10' side walls and a 14' roof peak.
On a 10' side wall you should have had on at 12" off the floor, then two to split the difference between that.
Roof can be done at 4-5' spacing on the Z Purlin. I like 4' with 26ga, 5' with 24ga.
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So I am getting a 14ft tall 40x50 building, I beams in the front middle and rear, bottom angle, 2 horizontal girts at 4ft and 9ft, girts are 8" 14g Cee, roof perlins are same spec, they were going to do 5' centers I opted for 4' centers on the roof. Panels are 26g.Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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Concrete is 6 days old for the pad, has a bunch of hairline cracks all over, is that normal?Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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Originally posted by Mach1 View PostConcrete is 6 days old for the pad, has a bunch of hairline cracks all over, is that normal?
Concrete is going to do two things, get hard and crack. How big is the pad? Thickness? What kind of reinforcement did they use?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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Originally posted by black2002ls View PostI see it frequently. A lot of times on our patios towards the end of construction.
Concrete is going to do two things, get hard and crack. How big is the pad? Thickness? What kind of reinforcement did they use?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
3/8 rebar, 12" centers, they didn't use risers for the rebar they just pulled it up by hand as they were pouring it, I watered it for 3 days to help with the cure, wasn't enough I guess.Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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Did they use bigger rebar in the beams?
I'm not a concrete guy by trade, so I am just thinking off of what I have seen. 3/8 is probably fine on 12" centers. IIRC code for driveway approach (6-8" thick) is 3/8 on 12" or 1/2" on 16" centers.
I would bet what you are seeing are surface cracks. Its the "cap" cracking and everything below that is just fine.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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Originally posted by Mach1 View Post40x50x6, perimeter and a single center beam, beams are prob 1x2'
3/8 rebar, 12" centers, they didn't use risers for the rebar they just pulled it up by hand as they were pouring it, I watered it for 3 days to help with the cure, wasn't enough I guess.
I agree with you that (I think) I want smooth and polished concrete throughout. So smooth that I want to be able to stain it and have it presentable like the inside of a house. As far as shop area though I think a little bit of cracking would be acceptable since I would be epoxy coating it amyways.Fuck you. We're going to Costco.
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I am in Royse City, how much is it to have someone do the floor coatings? I think it would be a good move.Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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Originally posted by Mach1 View PostI am in Royse City, how much is it to have someone do the floor coatings? I think it would be a good move.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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I'm off 1138 in between 6 and 66Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php
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