Wavy foundation?

[black2002ls]

This. Many builders do work towards customer satisfaction and a solution for everyone.

I have seen us take care of items that are VERY obviously not warrantable to make sure that our customers are happy with their home.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[mustang1200]

Better than T-ply, but that pic still isn't code compliant. Those garage returns need to be a minimum of 18" from what I can tell, and that still won't meet the code required bracing for that wall line unless each one (built at 18") is built like a portal with holdowns. That would require holdowns on the side walls of the garage too.

Zip wall is structural OSB though, and it is a great product. That being said, be prepared for that garage to have problems and movement in the future...

Not exactly sure what you mean by portal with hold downs.

From the outside wall it measures 16". I know we went over this with the framer a couple times and some additional work had to be done with those inside corners and roof structure to ensure it would remain sound.

[juiceweezl]

Not exactly sure what you mean by portal with hold downs.

From the outside wall it measures 16". I know we went over this with the framer a couple times and some additional work had to be done with those inside corners and roof structure to ensure it would remain sound.

Here's an overview link: http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/fram...ules-revised_o

Here's an image of what they should look like if built as a true portal frame.



Each one of those counts as 4 feet of bracing. What's not included in there will be the reinforced foundation requirement as well. Actually, now that I look at the code again, if that's a bonus room, the returns built as above need to be 24". If using a different method (identified as CS-PF in the code), they can be 18" wide, but it will only count for 27" of bracing. The next panel has to be spaced within 20 feet edge to edge, and that clearly isn't the case. How wide is that section between the garages?

And those returns don't look like 16" to me at all, not measured as the picture above. Scale can be deceiving though on something that large.

Oh, and what's the actual wall height of the garage? Measured floor to ceiling? That matters too.

[mustang1200]

Here's an overview link: http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/fram...ules-revised_o

Here's an image of what they should look like if built as a true portal frame.


Each one of those counts as 4 feet of bracing. What's not included in there will be the reinforced foundation requirement as well. Actually, now that I look at the code again, if that's a bonus room, the returns built as above need to be 24". If using a different method (identified as CS-PF in the code), they can be 18" wide, but it will only count for 27" of bracing. The next panel has to be spaced within 20 feet edge to edge, and that clearly isn't the case. How wide is that section between the garages?

And those returns don't look like 16" to me at all, not measured as the picture above. Scale can be deceiving though on something that large.

The middle section is right around 3ft tp 3 1/2ft if I remember correctly. The left side has a bonus room above it. The right side is vaulted ceiling. See pano picture below.

The description provided for portal framing is exactly how it was done. Additionally that explains all of the nails used in the OSB to headers and vertical framing in the corners. I don't know the brand of hold downs, but there are 2 of the threaded hold downs in the 6x2 framed walls in both x and y axis of those corners. Those hold downs were installed in all of the exterior wall sections all the way around the house. They all had metal plates, washers then nuts installed after the framing went up.



You can see some of the hold downs in this picture.



You can sort of make out some of the nails here. There were way more if I remember correctly once they completed the framing.

[juiceweezl]

Those are anchor bolts and not hold downs. A holdown is a big piece of metal that attaches to the studs. Some, like the ones in the image I posted, are embedded into the concrete directly. The ones in that image, which is the same image in the code, are 26" long outside the concrete and 3" wide. They require 30 nails into the strap which goes into the double studs on top of the sheathing nailing. It's a nightmare to build which is why you don't see it often. If those big embedded straps aren't there, then it probably isn't code compliant. I'd need the layout, wall line spacing, roof height, etc. to tell you exactly what is needed, but at a glance, and I've seen a lot of plans/homes, it's not.

That just makes you like 99.9% of the homes in TX though, and most of the country really.

[mustang1200]

Those are anchor bolts and not hold downs. A holdown is a big piece of metal that attaches to the studs. Some, like the ones in the image I posted, are embedded into the concrete directly. The ones in that image, which is the same image in the code, are 26" long outside the concrete and 3" wide. They require 30 nails into the strap which goes into the double studs on top of the sheathing nailing. It's a nightmare to build which is why you don't see it often. If those big embedded straps aren't there, then it probably isn't code compliant. I'd need the layout, wall line spacing, roof height, etc. to tell you exactly what is needed, but at a glance, and I've seen a lot of plans/homes, it's not.

That just makes you like 99.9% of the homes in TX though, and most of the country really.

I see what what your saying. I had been referring those as hurricane strapping. At my request hurricane strapping was installed on all of the exterior walls and resembles the Simpson Strong Tie LSTA21. Some longer and some short depending on the wall and wall width.

Not an acutal picture of my house, but it looks something like this. Studs have strapping looped over the top and down both sides and the rafters have L bracket looks straps afixing them to the top plates.

[David]

I'm absolutely terrified when I build my next house.

[mustang1200]

I'm absolutely terrified when I build my next house.

I was extremely cautious with picking a custom builder. I hired an independent inspector to also look over all of the work being done. I'm not entirely sure he was worth what I paid, but maybe that's because to date we've had very few issues.

[jw33]

I get it, a few of you work in the industry and I'm sure you do your best to take care of customers and not all builders will fuck you over on everything. But for a major warranty issue with a big home building company there just isn't any incentive to make things right. That's why the customers are required to sign a binding mandatory arbitration clause when they start the build process. Guess who the arbitration firm is going to side with? They are in a business to make a profit and spending a large amount of money to fix a screw up isn't in the cards. That's why they have you sign the above agreement. They will fix the small stuff under warranty and maybe fix the big things if you catch them early before you sign off at closing, but after that if a major issue comes up, you're going to face a very steep uphill battle. The odds are in their favor by a lot even if you take it all the way to arbitration. Hiring a third party inspector from the very beginning is money well spent in my opinion. At the very least it will keep the builder on their toes and remind them that someone with some knowledge is watching and will check their work.

[FastFord19]

I was extremely cautious with picking a custom builder. I hired an independent inspector to also look over all of the work being done. I'm not entirely sure he was worth what I paid, but maybe that's because to date we've had very few issues.

When I had my custom home built I also hired my own independent inspector. My builder's "inspector" said everything was good. I brought my own guy in and he would always find something. I took that info back to my builder who then corrected the problem.

[mustang1200]

When I had my custom home built I also hired my own independent inspector. My builder's "inspector" said everything was good. I brought my own guy in and he would always find something. I took that info back to my builder who then corrected the problem.

Same thing here. There just hasn't been much to report from the independent. This guy was hired directly by me not the builder.

[black2002ls]

I get it, a few of you work in the industry and I'm sure you do your best to take care of customers and not all builders will fuck you over on everything. But for a major warranty issue with a big home building company there just isn't any incentive to make things right. That's why the customers are required to sign a binding mandatory arbitration clause when they start the build process. Guess who the arbitration firm is going to side with? They are in a business to make a profit and spending a large amount of money to fix a screw up isn't in the cards. That's why they have you sign the above agreement. They will fix the small stuff under warranty and maybe fix the big things if you catch them early before you sign off at closing, but after that if a major issue comes up, you're going to face a very steep uphill battle. The odds are in their favor by a lot even if you take it all the way to arbitration. Hiring a third party inspector from the very beginning is money well spent in my opinion. At the very least it will keep the builder on their toes and remind them that someone with some knowledge is watching and will check their work.

This is true of a lot of builders, from what I hear. I have not seen a single issue with one of our homes go that route. We will go so far as to fix issues with developer built fixtures (fences, retaining walls, etc) if it is the right thing to do. We have peired several foundations in year 10, the final year of our structural/foundation warranty because it was the right thing to do.

When I had my custom home built I also hired my own independent inspector. My builder's "inspector" said everything was good. I brought my own guy in and he would always find something. I took that info back to my builder who then corrected the problem.

One thing to keep in mind about 3rd party home inspectors, you are paying them to find a problem so they are going to make sure they find one. They are going to make sure to note everything that may be of ANY concern. I have seen a lot of non issues brought up on home inspectors reports. When we were using Burgess Quality consultants, some of the items noted by 3rd party inspectors were pretty out there. So then, these homeowners take it as gospel these things are wrong with their homes.

We are unfortunately painted as villains in the industry. Hell, the handyman you hire after you close is more likely to take advantage of you than we are!

[8mpg]

There is still a code governing the area. The state of Texas adopts a version of the IRC. Then, counties adopt all or part of it (or none of it and stick with what they have) and then cities do the same. You need to find out which version of the code governs the area and start there. Enforcement of said code is the issue...


Unfortunately, yes, it is.

It doesn't. All those drywall cracks you see in newer homes that get blamed on the foundation...it's not the foundation. All those doors that are all of a sudden harder to close or stick...it's not the foundation. The code mandates wall bracing, and the section (R602.10) underwent a major overhaul 2 cycles ago. It had only accounted for seismic forces traditionally, but now it takes wind into effect. There are factors for exposure category (is your house in an open area or protected by other homes nearby), building height, width, etc. Unfortunately, it gets overlooked all the time.

Its become the norm because we use more engineering these days than we did before. Advanced framing, new sheeting, etc has been proven by engineering models and thus become IRC. Yes, there are standards to bracing and they should be enforced, but I believe if built correctly the thermoply should be more than enough. I think we tend to try and overbuild due to the lack of knowledge. People think houses are built crappy because of stuff like this when reality it should be ok if it was built properly to these standards.

[juiceweezl]

I see what what your saying. I had been referring those as hurricane strapping. At my request hurricane strapping was installed on all of the exterior walls and resembles the Simpson Strong Tie LSTA21. Some longer and some short depending on the wall and wall width.

Not an acutal picture of my house, but it looks something like this. Studs have strapping looped over the top and down both sides and the rafters have L bracket looks straps afixing them to the top plates.

Sounds like they did well with the add-ons. The picture shows hurricane ties on the rafters, but that looks like plumbing strap on the studs (see how all the holes are in a single line), not to mention they don't have nails. From your description, your home is built better than the majority in this area, but the large openings at the garage could cause a problem.

[mustang1200]

Sounds like they did well with the add-ons. The picture shows hurricane ties on the rafters, but that looks like plumbing strap on the studs (see how all the holes are in a single line), not to mention they don't have nails. From your description, your home is built better than the majority in this area, but the large openings at the garage could cause a problem.

That picture isn't of my house. Just an close example.

The strapping they used didn't have any holes in it like that and wasn't as flexible as the plumbing strapping. I used some scraps to secure some airline I installed. HAHA.