My Coupe Resto!

[dville_gt]

Thanks. We'll line em up in a couple weeks.

sounds like a plan. love your car.

[onjacks]

Changing the gears and building the rear end right now. Should be done soon.

[dville_gt]

Changing the gears and building the rear end right now. Should be done soon.

i'm making some slight tweaks myself

[onjacks]

Well, I knew this would happen. Got sick of my car being so loud on the street so i am changing up the exhaust.

Gonna be installing a s480 w 1.58 a/r turbo with stainless 304 hotside and aluminum downpipe out the fender.

I wont be using an intercooler and I'm now switching to E85.

I will be building the kit myself out of stainless and sending it out to be tig/backpurged.

Flipped shorties (stainless) 50mm bov & 60mm wastegate all from ebay


Also bought an aluminium radiator and moved it forward/under core support and installed a tubular support. The new pusher fans will be in the front.

shooting for 800+ rwhp and still a streetcar. I dont want to put much more in it since its still a f4te block.

Some turbo kit progress by next weekend. Stay tuned

[KBScobravert]

In, to see how you do the radiator cap. I see it is welded closed. If I were to guess, you are doing a remote de-gas style system. Looks like with a little upper support trimming you could have increased your radiator height in overall dimensions too.

I have been contemplating a tubular lower core support to move the radiator and condenser a little further forward myself.

[onjacks]

The cheap side of me wants to just weld a filler neck/cap to the top of the
thermostat housing and put a -16 fitting right below it. Not sure how it would work though.

The other option is this new housing by cobra earl. It enables you to keep your t stat and use any Chevy adapter. Options galore with this. But $120 for the housing plus $30-50 adapter, makes me wanna try other things first.

[onjacks]

Hard to see in the pic, but The radiator almost hits my stock hood release bracket that i never plan to remove (no pins ftw!)

I Would also have to cut my header panel and grind the *%$! out of it.

I just told myself that the void above would be good for airflow.

Having the radiator moved forward that small amount makes my downpipe a cake walk. It should just clear the front of the wp pulley and be low enough to not get in the way while doing any top end work. The idea is to keep everything low so if the motor needs to be pulled, just unhook downpipe.

[turbostang]

I'll just go on record here as saying how bad of an idea it is to NOT have hood pins on a fox.

[onjacks]

Explain??

[turbostang]

Explain??

It's a problem that has plagued a large percentage of mustangs that have fiberglass hoods without pins - the hood will eventually come up, smash your windshield, cowl and roof.

Put some sort of pin in it before you become part of the statistic.

[Smashmix]

+1 ^^^^^^^^ I'm a card holding member of that club

[onjacks]

Did you have a cervinis? Did you have saftey latch? Did you have hood adjusted correct & tight.

[dblack1]

+1 ^^^^^^^^ I'm a card holding member of that club

I'm the member of the club of people who have bought some cheap cars with damage from the hood blowing up.

No way in hell I'd even drive a glass hooded car down the road, much less over 100mph without pins.

[Baron Von Crowder]

Did you have a cervinis? Did you have saftey latch? Did you have hood adjusted correct & tight.

yes, yes and yes. Once the latch (they are 20 years old at the newest, and they sometimes just pop open without pulling the handle) pops, you get a big gust of air going under the hood, and it will rip the latch right out like it wasnt there, provided you have enough air/speed rolling in.

[onjacks]

well, crap.