My LSx Coupe Build

[dville_gt]

AFR error will either ruin your day or brighten it up the first time you run it.
You cant rely on the stock knock sensors unless they are both new as well as the harness that plugs into them. They are notorious for going bad and picking up false knock. It will drive you crazy trying to diagnose it. Ill send you a timing table that will be spot on. I have five SD files from that same exact combo. Be carefull what information you get from the HpTuners board. The guys who really know the software talk the least. The guys who want everyone to think they know it all talk the most.

That makes me feel quite a bit better about the KR. What I found most strange was that it was not consistant, some cruises I'd have lots of KR down low, others only very little, then sometimes none. The log that showed the most was when I tried pulling some timing in the lower cells to combat a small amount of KR I was seeing, the result, 7+ degrees of KR down low in some cells. Could not believe what I was seeing (possibly rightfully so). Look forward to seeing the spark table, this is by far the most confusing part of the equation for me since it seems impossible to find the sweet spot via logging. I'll be sure to take HPT's board with a grain of salt, I see what you mean about the quiet vs. outspoken members. The quiet ones are actually tuning.

[dville_gt]

AC blows cold now!

[jw33]

Awesome. You're like one of maybe 3-5 people who've got this all sorted out with the mustang/LSx crowd.

[dville_gt]

Awesome. You're like one of maybe 3-5 people who've got this all sorted out with the mustang/LSx crowd.

Only thing i'd change if i were doing it again would be the accumulator, since I had to have it modified (had to get the fitting re-clocked/re-welded) so when it comes time to replace it I'll have to do it again (granted it only cost $20 to get that done).

I need to get a different upper radiator hose, trying to figure out some way to make the hose have a straighter path as I think the wild 180* turn it makes it inhibiting flow to the radiator. I cant really switch to car accessories now as the a/c compressor is a Denso off the Escalade. Other option is an LS3 waterpump which has the correct pulley alignment for the truck accessories but they are still pretty high dollar since you can only get them from the dealer.

Lots of thanks to Buick355 for helping me not once, but twice charge the system (tried to improvise the first time around the fact that there was no traditional low-side suction port, only a switch port that we tried to charge from and ended up crushing the schrader valve in the process, which caused me to loose just enough freon to make the compressor cycle), I then evac'ed the system and had a true low side port welded onto the suction hose. System charged perfectly after that.

Now it's back to making her fast again, gotta spend some time with HP tuners this weekend. Going to go buy a seperate IAT sensor so I can ditch the MAF and mount the IAT somewhere outside of the engine bay (sans heatsoak). Going to keep the car speed density and see what she does. I am a little afraid to know how much weight I've added through this whole A/C install (good thing I didn't weigh it before hand so I wont feel bad). I am hoping I can pull a 6.9 as it sits with a real good tune (and the new rear suspension). Might take some good air though.

[Juiced4v]

yep

Yeah that coupe is pretty quick....mid 6's on stock shitty suspension

[Wicked98Snake]

Now I'm even more jealous, great!!!

[dville_gt]

Yeah that coupe is pretty quick....mid 6's on stock shitty suspension

It definitely wasn't going anywhere near mid 6's when we ran (at the cruise), more like 8.0 I believe. Must have gotten his issues figured out since then.

From what I heard from some other DFWMustangs guys that guy was less than sociable and when we were lining up I gave him a nod and he spit out the window towards my car, needless to say I wasn't too sad seeing him in my rear-view mirrors.

[Sam88gta1]

Now it's back to making her fast again, gotta spend some time with HP tuners this weekend. Going to go buy a seperate IAT sensor so I can ditch the MAF and mount the IAT somewhere outside of the engine bay (sans heatsoak). Going to keep the car speed density and see what she does. I am a little afraid to know how much weight I've added through this whole A/C install (good thing I didn't weigh it before hand so I wont feel bad). I am hoping I can pull a 6.9 as it sits with a real good tune (and the new rear suspension). Might take some good air though.

Dont be scared to keep the car in SD mode. It will run faster and get better fuel mileage this way.
Sent email back.

[XR_1]

I need to get a different upper radiator hose, trying to figure out some way to make the hose have a straighter path as I think the wild 180* turn it makes it inhibiting flow to the radiator. I cant really switch to car accessories now as the a/c compressor is a Denso off the Escalade. Other option is an LS3 waterpump which has the correct pulley alignment for the truck accessories but they are still pretty high dollar since you can only get them from the dealer.

Try making a pipe to run it the way you want instead of using a radiator hose (thats how I did it)

[Buick355]

Lots of thanks to Buick355 for helping me

No prob, glad to help. That's a bad ass car you have there!

[NoClassic]

Grab some of the water outlet spacers and get a car pump. There are plenty of truck guys who have done this.

[dville_gt]

Grab some of the water outlet spacers and get a car pump. There are plenty of truck guys who have done this.

$75 for the spacers and $85 for the waterpump = $160 when the L99 waterpump is only $180 from the general w/new bolts and gaskets. Just hate replacing good parts when there are other places I'd rather put the money.

[dville_gt]

Well, it's probably ghetto as hell, but I picked up some 4in drier duct at Lowes today, I originally got it to use as mock up for when I get some mandrel 4inch pipe. Well, I got it all in there and the inside is actually pretty smooth (a lot better than the PVC pipe). I might just run this for a while and see what my MAP numbers look like with it. It goes from the T/B into the drivers side fender well. I relocated the MAF into the fenderwell as well (only using it as a IAT sensor as I am running speed density), but it is still getting some heat soak so I bought a thermistor and am going to mount the sensor in the front bumper to give it fresh air.



One problem I did run into today is the cooling system isn't up to the job w/ac on. Got up to 230+ degrees today cruising around town (granted it was 103* when I was cruising). I cut out the kinked upper radiator hose and put in a 90* elbow to make sure that my problem isn't caused by the funky upper radiator hose I had been running, if that doesn't fix it I guess I'll have to go to an aftermarket radiator. There is one on eBay for like 240 that has a lot of good reviews concerning performance vs. stock.

Oh, and I blew out 2 200amp ANL fuses today trying to get the a/c idle under control, ended up putting in a 300amp fuse and haven't had any problems yet. I guess the 2/o wire, all the accessories on, heat soaked starter, and me hitting the starter over and over were too much for the 200amp fuse!

[NoClassic]

I would try bleeding the cooling system again before you write off the current radiator. It does seem odd you are killing 200amp fuses. I have a 140 breaker on mine and it has never been tripped. May want to check your wiring for issues.

[dville_gt]

I would try bleeding the cooling system again before you write off the current radiator. It does seem odd you are killing 200amp fuses. I have a 140 breaker on mine and it has never been tripped. May want to check your wiring for issues.

ya, i thought it was odd too, the starter sounds different now, i think it might be on it's way out. lots of heat right there by the headers. drove around a lot today with the 300amp and didn't have any problems. with no check valve in the aeromotive pump sometimes you have to stay on the starter for a second to get pressure built up, that along with a heat soaked starter might just be too much.

as far as the cooling system i bled it when i put the 90* elbow in the upper, it is definitly better then the old hose, but it will still rise up to about 230 when you sit for a bit and runs around 225 when you are rolling. seems like the radiator just can't hang.

i did get some full throttle runs in today and started working on the upper VE tables, got it to about 5% rich (12.2-12.5:1 @ WOT). the lower VE tables look real good with around 1-2% rich all over the place (averaging about 14.6:1 across the board). need to get it out to the track and see what a good tune is worth in the 1/8th (when I started it was super rich down low and then all over the place up top).