Tips for a newbie cyclist?

[black2002ls]

I took the bike to RBM frisco today while I was in that neck of the woods and had the front deraillure adjusted (they did it at no charge) I picked the bike up used and the front has needed adjusting since I got it, I haven't been able to change chain rings to this point, I have been stuck in the middle ring. I also had them do a quick adjustment to my cleats. I only rode ~3 miles and there was no numbness. I also spent the ride on the large chain ring, it made a HUGE difference in my speed on the flats and downhill. Before I would run out of gear trying to push more than ~21 mph, I would start bouncing pretty bad.

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[black2002ls]

I don't want to be rude but this information is not entirely accurate. You want the shoe to be snug, that way you prevent your foot from moving around in the shoe. If you have hot spots the shoe is not right for your foot. You need to address the shoe fitment and insole. Cycling shoes are the complete opposite of running shoes.

Also you should have some float in your cleats, that will allow your foot to move a little side to side during your pedal movement. You also want your feet to be strait forward. If you walk or run with you toes in or out that is ok but when on the bike you need to be as strait as possible. If not you will have ankle and knee issues the longer you ride.

Bottom line if you have any issues with numbness, or pain in ankles or knees you need to go see a professional fitter. Many times there is something wrong with the fit or the cleat placement, and it can be resolved by some adjustments.

Your pedal stroke should be smooth and fluid. It should be smooth and strait like a connecting rod in an engine. The smoother and more in line the more comfortable you will be, the longer you will be able to ride, and more power you will be able to put out.

That is one reason I am keeping the rides short. I am going to try and get back to RBM in the next week to get my cleats adjusted and to recheck my fit to make sure the pedal set up hasn't changed things. That is the bad part about being out here in Greenville. The closest shop is Rockwall and I haven't had a good experience the few times I have been in there

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[Beej]

Cleat and bike shoe adjustments are not something to be taken lightly. Get it wrong and pain will become your friend leading to injury. Seriously, you are fixing your leg to the bike, you have to have the position and angle right or else.

One tip I learned and firmly believe in is wear those shoes loose! I mean the looser the straps are the better. It will allow you to shift your foot around relieving stress and hot spots. Bike shoes do not flex at all, so this is the only way to relieve foot pain on long rides.

Also know your feet and angles. I have shims under my cleats to put them at a 3 degree angle. Without the shims at zero degrees, I get sharp pain on the outside edge of my feet. Also some riders point their toes inward or outward naturally. I'm a straight ahead guy, but you need to adjust your cleats to fit your natural foot position. You can't make your body conform to how you adjust the cleat without pain. Some riders even point both of their toes left or right (rare). Saddle position too. Some people are more comfortable with it angled to one side or the other a bit.

Getting comfortable is the key to building up your endurance and distance. Speed comes after that. I'm finally starting to work on speed a bit.

I don't want to be rude but this information is not entirely accurate. You want the shoe to be snug, that way you prevent your foot from moving around in the shoe. If you have hot spots the shoe is not right for your foot. You need to address the shoe fitment and insole. Cycling shoes are the complete opposite of running shoes.

Also you should have some float in your cleats, that will allow your foot to move a little side to side during your pedal movement. You also want your feet to be strait forward. If you walk or run with you toes in or out that is ok but when on the bike you need to be as strait as possible. If not you will have ankle and knee issues the longer you ride.

Bottom line if you have any issues with numbness, or pain in ankles or knees you need to go see a professional fitter. Many times there is something wrong with the fit or the cleat placement, and it can be resolved by some adjustments.

Your pedal stroke should be smooth and fluid. It should be smooth and strait like a connecting rod in an engine. The smoother and more in line the more comfortable you will be, the longer you will be able to ride, and more power you will be able to put out.

[AnthonyS]

Another 3 miles tonight. I adjusted the left cleat a bit and that seems to have relieved the numbness I was feeling. It was my first ride averaging more than 13 mph. I can't wait for a longer ride this weekend to see how my speed increases. My legs are tiring out a bit more now (not necessarily a bad thing) and I feel like I am getting a better workout.

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Cleat and bike shoe adjustments are not something to be taken lightly. Get it wrong and pain will become your friend leading to injury. Seriously, you are fixing your leg to the bike, you have to have the position and angle right or else.

One tip I learned and firmly believe in is wear those shoes loose! I mean the looser the straps are the better. It will allow you to shift your foot around relieving stress and hot spots. Bike shoes do not flex at all, so this is the only way to relieve foot pain on long rides.

Also know your feet and angles. I have shims under my cleats to put them at a 3 degree angle. Without the shims at zero degrees, I get sharp pain on the outside edge of my feet. Also some riders point their toes inward or outward naturally. I'm a straight ahead guy, but you need to adjust your cleats to fit your natural foot position. You can't make your body conform to how you adjust the cleat without pain. Some riders even point both of their toes left or right (rare). Saddle position too. Some people are more comfortable with it angled to one side or the other a bit.

Getting comfortable is the key to building up your endurance and distance. Speed comes after that. I'm finally starting to work on speed a bit.

[black2002ls]

Another 3 miles tonight. I adjusted the left cleat a bit and that seems to have relieved the numbness I was feeling. It was my first ride averaging more than 13 mph. I can't wait for a longer ride this weekend to see how my speed increases. My legs are tiring out a bit more now (not necessarily a bad thing) and I feel like I am getting a better workout.

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[black2002ls]

If you had cheep flat pedals before the sound very well could have been from the pedals.

Glad you got that fixed up and got your pedals. That will make a huge difference.

It has been night and day! I didn't feel like I was pushing any hardr than before and my speeds were up from previous rides. I got some numbness on the outside of my left foot so I need to get the cleats adjusted. I tried to center them under the ball of my foot as a starting point

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[Beej]

Pedals showed up today. Needless to say I couldn't wait to get home and put them on. I went with Shimano 105's. My quads were still a little tight from yesterdays ride, so I went for a quick spin (~3.5 miles). All I can say after this ride is, if you don't have a clipless pedal set up (or toe clips), you need to get them!

I could definitely feel the difference on the up stroke. My pedalling also seemed more fluid than before. Granted some of it could be in my head...

Also, it seems my click may have been in the cheap pedals. It was non existent on my ride tonight.

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If you had cheep flat pedals before the sound very well could have been from the pedals.

Glad you got that fixed up and got your pedals. That will make a huge difference.

[black2002ls]

Pedals showed up today. Needless to say I couldn't wait to get home and put them on. I went with Shimano 105's. My quads were still a little tight from yesterdays ride, so I went for a quick spin (~3.5 miles). All I can say after this ride is, if you don't have a clipless pedal set up (or toe clips), you need to get them!

I could definitely feel the difference on the up stroke. My pedalling also seemed more fluid than before. Granted some of it could be in my head...

Also, it seems my click may have been in the cheap pedals. It was non existent on my ride tonight.

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[black2002ls]

a good stiff brush and some degreaser should clean your derailleur.

Good to know. I think I forced some grit and grime into it when I cleaned everything else

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[Beej]

a good stiff brush and some degreaser should clean your derailleur.

[black2002ls]

depends on the bb and crank type. Most use sealed bearings so there really isn't much to lube.

I still don' think that is your issue, rarely is.

I am skeptical myself. When I spin the cranks be hand, it seems pretty smooth. I plan to pull the cranks clean all the nooks and crannies re assemble and re-assess. I still need to pull the rear deraillure. My pedals should be in today, so when I get home I plan to install them and get adjusted to clipping in and out. I didn't ordr any grease for the threads. All I have on hand are automotive grease's.

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[Beej]

I had a fit done a couple of weeks ago, I think it has more to do with what gear I am in. I ordered the tools to pull the crank and the BB last night, hopefully it all just neads cleaned lubed and tightened. What grease/oil should I be using on the cranks/BB

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depends on the bb and crank type. Most use sealed bearings so there really isn't much to lube.

I still don' think that is your issue, rarely is.

[black2002ls]

Look online on how to adjust a rear derauleur. You should find some videos on youtube. This will help get rid of that clicking sound and poor shifting.

If you are bouncing you need to take a harder gear, it can also occur when your saddle is too low. A fit at a local bike shop will help for sure. If you can't do that look online again for bike fit videos. A good resource to get your saddle close to where it needs to be.

This will make a huge difference when you start riding harder and longer. If you do not have the right knee angle and extension you are hurting power and can potentially hurt your knees.

I had a fit done a couple of weeks ago, I think it has more to do with what gear I am in. I ordered the tools to pull the crank and the BB last night, hopefully it all just neads cleaned lubed and tightened. What grease/oil should I be using on the cranks/BB

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[TeeShock]

I know this is a long shot but I am looking for a used set of shimano xt hydro brakes. And a chris king iso 15mm qr hub insert. I have a 9mm iso qr available.

[Beej]

Look online on how to adjust a rear derauleur. You should find some videos on youtube. This will help get rid of that clicking sound and poor shifting.

If you are bouncing you need to take a harder gear, it can also occur when your saddle is too low. A fit at a local bike shop will help for sure. If you can't do that look online again for bike fit videos. A good resource to get your saddle close to where it needs to be.

This will make a huge difference when you start riding harder and longer. If you do not have the right knee angle and extension you are hurting power and can potentially hurt your knees.