Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Adam Arms piston kit failure

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • CJ
    replied
    Originally posted by ThreeFingerPete View Post
    CJ, I agree with you. It's ridiculous to go through all of that trouble to avoid a tack weld, polishing it smooth and redrilling.
    I have all the equipment to do it in all of 5 min and its fixed, not rigged.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThreeFingerPete
    replied
    Originally posted by Nash B. View Post
    I see what you did there.
    No, seriously. Trying to reinvent the wheel to mill a spacer into the gas system is ridiculous. A gunsmith would just weld and redrill.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nash B.
    replied
    I see what you did there.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThreeFingerPete
    replied
    Originally posted by CJ View Post
    Yeah that's a whole lot of shit I don't want to deal with. 1 second with a welder and all of this is solved.
    CJ, I agree with you. It's ridiculous to go through all of that trouble to avoid a tack weld, polishing it smooth and redrilling.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigshoe
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    I would bet you could make a holley carb jet work with minimal work. They are already sized and labeled. Just need to get the height right and maybe trim down the OD. Doesn't need to be a press fit either. The barrel and the piston plug will keep it from moving.
    How big is the hole in the gas block? An air bleed might work better than a jet, I think they are 10-32. You can get them blank and drill out your own size. Just tap the hole in the gas block and screw in the bleed.

    Leave a comment:


  • CJ
    replied
    Yeah that's a whole lot of shit I don't want to deal with. 1 second with a welder and all of this is solved.

    Leave a comment:


  • GAP
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    I would bet you could make a holley carb jet work with minimal work. They are already sized and labeled. Just need to get the height right and maybe trim down the OD. Doesn't need to be a press fit either. The barrel and the piston plug will keep it from moving.
    What is to keep the bushing from shooting up, into the piston plug? Isn't the hole in the plug the same size as the hole in the block? I dont remember on mine, and looking at it wont help since i've oversized the gas system when I was trying to get it to work on a 16" carbine gas 300BLK. Everything is .156", if memory serves me.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by GAP View Post
    I can even machine one for you if you like.
    I would bet you could make a holley carb jet work with minimal work. They are already sized and labeled. Just need to get the height right and maybe trim down the OD. Doesn't need to be a press fit either. The barrel and the piston plug will keep it from moving.

    Leave a comment:


  • GAP
    replied
    I can even machine one for you if you like.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by GAP View Post
    Turn down a bushing with a .065" hole and press it into the underside of the gas block.
    CJ, I think this is the best option vs modifying the barrel.

    Leave a comment:


  • CJ
    replied
    Originally posted by phaux View Post
    I would go the bushing route first if possible. Make sure you use some type of adhesive and that it's wedged in there super tight. I would be afraid of it falling loose from the extreme heat and jarring of the blast.

    In regards to welding I would tig it at as low a heat as possible as I would be terrified to warp a barrell. Weld it as little as possible, the last thing you would want is to get even a tiny bit of warpage in that barrel.
    I'm going to go with welding it, only a few hundredths of penetration will do the job. You're not going to warp a 1" thick piece of stainless with a TIG. Red-X stated that they worked the barrels to be the most reliable. They said there is no standard for pistol length barrels, but since they run these barrels once every 1-2 months I'd have to wait, so I'll be welding it up. As far as AA I think they are going to take care of me.

    Leave a comment:


  • phaux
    replied
    I would go the bushing route first if possible. Make sure you use some type of adhesive and that it's wedged in there super tight. I would be afraid of it falling loose from the extreme heat and jarring of the blast.

    In regards to welding I would tig it at as low a heat as possible as I would be terrified to warp a barrell. Weld it as little as possible, the last thing you would want is to get even a tiny bit of warpage in that barrel.

    Leave a comment:


  • GAP
    replied
    Turn down a bushing with a .065" hole and press it into the underside of the gas block.

    Leave a comment:


  • inline 6
    replied
    Warranty Denied I take it? Will turning down the gas block not fix this? I thought this was the whole reason of having an adjustable gas block was to fine tune around things like that.

    Are the holes larger on shorter barrels for a reason? Or do you think this is a quality issue?
    Last edited by inline 6; 08-08-2012, 06:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CJ
    replied
    So, I received a call from Matt at Adams Arms today. We went over the usual suspicions and he settled on the gas port being too large possibly. I honestly had never measured it. I was able to find a drill bit that fit into my gas port pretty snug with a few thousandths of play. my digital caliper read .078" so the port is around .080" or more in size - aka fucking giganic. Spec is .065" so it appears the problem is the barrel. I plan on contacting red-x arms tomorrow to see if they can swap me out for a spec barrel. If not I will weld the barrel and re-drill it to the proper size. Come hell or high water I'm having a piston damnit! Matt at AA is still working with me but was super cool and informative on the phone.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X