Originally posted by Chili
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Some dumb questions about the new 5.0's
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I did the same thing, I bought my '12 July of '11 and I just tinted my windows last month. David at Tritek couldn't believe I waited so long. To tell you the truth the A/C works so damn good that I didn't see the need to do it, til I saw my boys '13 come with tint and I had to get mine done.Originally posted by SilverbackLook all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.
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I think 20s look okay.Originally posted by BERT View Post-Pretty sure I have the standard 18x8 wheels on my car. But if i'm thinking about buying some rims would they look worth a shit staying with the same size? Or would it be better just to go up in size. Do 20" rims look worth a shit on these cars?

I don't like the way 18s look on these cars; they're too small. The 19s look great but the limited tire size selection is a deal-breaker for me. Trust me, the 20s are just as expensive.
I'm still running the stock shifter. Most people are running either the Barton or MGW, with maybe a few more nods toward the MGW. Stay away from the Hurst on these cars at all cost.-If you have put a shifter in your car(m6), which shifter did you buy and how do you like it? I'm looking at a Hurst shifter
The high-rpm missed shift issue is due to the way the shifter is mounted, which kind of straddles the transmission and the floor of the car. When the engine is torqued over, the normal shifter alignment is thrown off, causing a lot of people to miss gears. Sometimes the shifter helps, sometimes it doesn't. What seems to be the only 100% sure way to keep this from happening is replacing the engine mounts (you read that right) that keeps the motor from moving in the first place. There is a new "transmission mount insert" from Whiteline that fills in the hollow gaps in the trans mount that is supposed to effectively do the same thing by keeping the rear of the trans from moving. I'm planning to get one of these once they're back in stock.
I've got Eibach Sportlines and Tokico D-specs. You have to get the adjustable panhard rod for a car lowered over an inch in the rear.-If you have lowered it, which springs did you buy? Or which springs are "supposed" to have the closest to the stock ride cause I kind of like the way it rides at the moment.
Yeah, there's some power to be had. The biggest thing it will address is the laggy throttle response of the stock tune. But if you keep the pedal hammered, the stock tune will go 114-115 in the quarter.-Is it worth getting at stock car tuned? Can you get any HP out of it? "They" claim you can get better gas mileage out of a tune, is this true?
I run Mobil 1 synthetic. Motorcraft offers a semi-synthetic blend and I'm sure it's fine. I haven't heard of any coyotes having oiling issues of any kind.-Lastly, what kind of oil do y'all run in the cars?
I've never run anything but Super Unleaded. You spend ~35k on a grand touring car with 11:1 compression and 400hp, and then cheap out over five bucks per tank? Seriously - WTF. I've already cracked a piston running good gas, I damn sure ain't gonna chance it with crappy gas. I'm sure it's fine if you drive it like grandma, but I don't.-Lastly lastly, how often do y'all use 93 octane? Or do y'all mostly just run 87?When the government pays, the government controls.
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I've had zero detonation running 87 octane, and if Ford has it in the book as acceptable, I see no reason to not use it. 15.5 K miles in 9 months, 1 road trip to Colorado, no issues. I don't go racing at the track either, this is just a back and forth to work car pretty much. Hell, %75 of the miles are probably sitting in rush hour traffic going 10 MPH!Originally posted by 46Tbird View PostHorsepower has NOTHING to do with it.

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