Ok, sooo... I finished the brakes last year and drove the car a couple of times and really nothing since. To be fair though, I didn't really go much of anywhere other than the lake a lot last year and had no reason to say drive it to work or anything.
The car seems to have an exhaust leak now on the driver's side header, the farthest back bolt looked like it was not all the way in but when I tried to tighten it it seems cross threaded. I don't remember it being a problem when I installed them, but that was years ago soooo... My heads are TFS 170's, can you still use a helicoil with aluminum heads? Will I be able to repair it with the head on or do I need to pull it to properly repair the threads? If I have to pull it, maybe I do that and repair them then sell them and get 11R heads with a new custom cam. Then we are in a spiral of "while I'm in here".
Also, I'm seriously considering sending this thing in for body work, paint, and maybe a big surprise. I know this thing is wavy as the ocean and I also know there are some bad spots hiding under the absolutely terrible paint. Pretty sure it's gonna cost me $12k-$15k to do what I'm thinking...
Basically I have a running and driving coupe with a great drive train (other than exhaust leak) and interior but it needs paint/body bad. I know for sure I won't take less than $10-12k for it as it sits, but if I put another $10-15k in paint and body I don't think I'd get that back, unless I sit on it for another 10 years. And if I do that, I really would want to change it from Red to Blue, which means to do it right tearing it all the way down to do the engine bay and all. I dunno, I need to decide if I am just going to start plugging away at it, go full retard with it, or sell it.
I'm leaning toward full retard. If I do that, anyone want to help me pull the engine/trans? I don't have an engine hoist or experience with it.
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Cool, I'll get one of those, if my vacuum bleeder doesn't work right, been years since I've used it.Originally posted by KBScobravert View PostLeave a comment:
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Ummmm, yeah, it gets driven. And I'm only OCD about a few things. While I do intend to clean it up, I don't intend to jack it up and clean under it for anything other than I've got it in the air to replace something and I might as well. Fuck that noise... a collector can buy a pristine car and care for it like that.Originally posted by Gasser64 View PostLeave a comment:
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Ok but we really need to see the whole underside scrubbed completely clean. And looking like new. Wheelwells, bottom of the engine, everything.Leave a comment:
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mine is a Motive. purchased from maximum motorsports when it used to be on their site.Originally posted by bird_dog0347 View Post
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Only thing about that one, no reviews... There are others from Motive (I at least recognize the brand) for pretty much the same price, what brand did you guys get?Leave a comment:
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I've got one like that. After years of trying to get someone to help me, I can now do it alone and it works like a charm.Originally posted by KBScobravert View PostI've got one very similar to this one.
Very easy to use. Fill it up, put the line on the reservoir, pump it up, put the bottle/hose on your first caliper, and crack a bleeder until you see no air bubbles and fresh fluid com out of the hose in the bottle.
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I've got one very similar to this one.Originally posted by bird_dog0347 View PostI've got a vacuum bleeder... and a 12 year old kid.
Fuck... I guess I better buy a new tool and do it right the first time by myself.
Very easy to use. Fill it up, put the line on the reservoir, pump it up, put the bottle/hose on your first caliper, and crack a bleeder until you see no air bubbles and fresh fluid com out of the hose in the bottle.
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I've got a vacuum bleeder... and a 12 year old kid.Originally posted by KBScobravert View Post
Fuck... I guess I better buy a new tool and do it right the first time by myself.
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Making good progress. Get a positive pressure bleeder and push new fluid through the system.
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Well I've gotten all 4 calipers and rotors mounted and setup with all new hardware/pads/rotors. Next up will be to disconnect all 4 of the old calipers and hook up the lines to the new ones then bleed them. In order to keep the fluid in the system and avoid getting any more air in there than I have to I left the 4 old ones on till I got to this point. I will also be swapping out the front brake lines with braided, the rears already are from when I installed the IRS.
My front wheels are also NASTY dirty and oily from when my front main seal started leaking and got a bit of oil flung on them. So getting them all clean will have to be done before it goes back together, and maybe get the wheel liners cleaned up a bit too, although at normal ride height you can't see in there. I did however confirm first that the wheel fits with no interference but I was pretty sure since I use an 18" wheel with a 1" spacer behind it I'd be ok.
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getting closer... test fit is a go, painting the rear caliper brackets and replacing the sliders and bolts.
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There's a user on the SVT Performance forum who makes the kit, Chris Salmon ssengineeringllc@gmail.com, shoot him an email and wait 4-6 weeks depending on his backlog.Originally posted by slow84lx View Post
Hopefully in the next few days I'll get the car off the ground and get this finished, just been a bit busy lately.Leave a comment:
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I want to say that I wish that I had a mill,....but, not something that I would use often. I'm following along on this brake upgrade that you are doing.
Do you have a link to the kit with the inserts, bolts, & spacers?Leave a comment:
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I'm going to use the spacers, if I want to machine them later I figure I can pull them off and do so... unless you've got a mill?Originally posted by slow84lx View Post
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