Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My 90 BlueCoupe build project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    i have the eliminator, which should probably be worse, combined with an 8 gallon fuel cell, and i've never overheated the fuel.
    Cool!

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by BlueCoupeRedVert View Post
    James, do you still have an A1000? Have any issues with it over heating the fuel on longer drive times?
    i have the eliminator, which should probably be worse, combined with an 8 gallon fuel cell, and i've never overheated the fuel.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by BlueCoupeRedVert View Post
    James, do you still have an A1000? Have any issues with it over heating the fuel on longer drive times?
    I have always wondered this. Hence my new dash work and car total rewire I am gonna have a temp sender put in the tank. Fabricated aluminum is just too easy to modify......or to have Brooks drill a hole and weld in a 1/8"npt at least.


    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    personally if you have the hobbs switch activating at over 1psi there really is no purpose for the rpm switch, but i guess it's a little safety net.
    mine will be over 3#

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    i'd personally stay away from the aeromotive speed controller, i still wonder if mine had something to do with my broken piston. when i got the motor put back together after i re-built it mine wouldn't cycle to the high speed. i ripped it off and am now just running full speed full time
    James, do you still have an A1000? Have any issues with it over heating the fuel on longer drive times?

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    Thanks for the Hobbs switch thought. I can use the same one that triggers my vacuum pump. I am already wiring in a tach adapter from the ECU so I can feed the controller for RPM now also.
    personally if you have the hobbs switch activating at over 1psi there really is no purpose for the rpm switch, but i guess it's a little safety net.

    Leave a comment:


  • OH II
    replied
    Looking good!

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    mine was the older version.

    i had mine set with 2 activation methods, rpm and boost (via a hobbs switch to the manual switch). it'd kick the pump to full speed over 4k rpm or over 1psi.
    Thanks for the Hobbs switch thought. I can use the same one that triggers my vacuum pump. I am already wiring in a tach adapter from the ECU so I can feed the controller for RPM now also.

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    Interesting. Did you switch yours to full speed while at the track? I assume you would have. What pump? What version of the controller was it? Aeromotive made some changes to the old red version. I ask cause I have one planned to go in. Already bought and paid for.
    mine was the older version.

    i had mine set with 2 activation methods, rpm and boost (via a hobbs switch to the manual switch). it'd kick the pump to full speed over 4k rpm or over 1psi.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    We installed an Aeromotive controller(red) on Fst86GT's car with an A2000. It works great. Has the RPM control and full power overide on a switch.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    i'd personally stay away from the aeromotive speed controller, i still wonder if mine had something to do with my broken piston. when i got the motor put back together after i re-built it mine wouldn't cycle to the high speed. i ripped it off and am now just running full speed full time
    Interesting. Did you switch yours to full speed while at the track? I assume you would have. What pump? What version of the controller was it? Aeromotive made some changes to the old red version. I ask cause I have one planned to go in. Already bought and paid for.

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    i'd personally stay away from the aeromotive speed controller, i still wonder if mine had something to do with my broken piston. when i got the motor put back together after i re-built it mine wouldn't cycle to the high speed. i ripped it off and am now just running full speed full time

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    Yes, I am using the factory fuel pump power wire to trigger the 30amp relay. The battery is in the trunk
    too, so there is a short lead from that to a 30amp circuit breaker to the relay then to the pump, all 8gaugeto power wire with same 8gaugefor used as a ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Are you running the power through the inertia switch?

    I have a Racetronix Fuel Pump wire relay harness set that I am not using if you are not 100% happy with what you have. I would let it go for the cheap.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    Sump to pump line. Should get the rest finished tomorrow.

    Power wires and relay
    Last edited by BlueCoupeRedVert; 03-27-2013, 11:02 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BlueCoupeRedVert
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    If you can put some sort of a rubber gasket between the pump and the frame to minimize the noise. I would also suggest a Aeromotive or Weldon speed controller make sure to run a good feed 10ga.
    Not to worried about noise, the V-1 is loud as hell. Lol I have 10anto feed and 8an return. One day i might and the controller.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X