Homealone's 62 Ford Country Sedan Build Up

[homealone]

Or forget all that crap, grab an Explorer aluminum driveshaft, have Automotive Driveline Supply in Hurst shorten it about an inch for $80, swap your T5/AOD/C4 slip yoke which takes a 1330 and hit the road.

[homealone]

I think my drive shaft is just fucked up, a 1310 is a 1/16th too big and I've tried 4 different brands.

I know that one. Hold on. It's the one I used in the falcon.

You have the 1.06" cup, right?

EDIT**

You don't have a T Code driveshft in there do you?

You should need the one listed above.

•1310 series
◦3.219 inches (3 7/32) wide across bearing caps
bearing caps are 1.062 inch (1 1/16) diameter
•1330 series
◦3.625 inches (3 5/8) wide across bearing caps
bearing caps are 1.062 inch (1 1/16) diameter


Like I said earlier, I have found a lot of mis-boxed, mis-labeled u-joits out there. Also be aware that sometimes you will find these u-joints with an extra set of cups. 1 1/16' and 1 1/8".

If all else fails, and this will probably too, cross a Spicer 5-101x which has the 1" cups and see if they fit the 5-134x.

[cool cat]

Double check the size on your driveshaft end but you should need a 1310 to 1330 conversion u_joint.

Percision 353 (Oreilly)
Duralast 1-0134 Autozone

Double check the U-joint at the store. I find every other one to be mis-boxed.

I don't recomment the Autozone piece. It is not forged like the others.

Dana Spicer 5-134X if you don't want a store brand.

[Z06killinsbf]

I think my drive shaft is just fucked up, a 1310 is a 1/16th too big and I've tried 4 different brands.

[homealone]

What flange did you get? I have the Explorer 1330 flange but am having difficulty finding the correct adapter U joint.

Double check the size on your driveshaft end but you should need a 1310 to 1330 conversion u_joint.

Percision 353 (Oreilly)
Duralast 1-0134 Autozone

Double check the U-joint at the store. I find every other one to be mis-boxed.

I don't recomment the Autozone piece. It is not forged like the others.

[BLAKE]

What flange did you get? I have the Explorer 1330 flange but am having difficulty finding the correct adapter U joint.

Flange off of an Aerostar. Apparently, the correct swap joint is a 3030 to 3010.

At least, that's what the interwebs tells me. I haven't put pieces together yet to verify.

[Z06killinsbf]

Got a spare short-side axle and the pinion flange yesterday. Should be all I need. Going to shorten it to 65-66 width.

Any insight on the shortening process is appreciated, as well as what you did for spring perches and anything else I'm not thinking of that might be important.

Thanks man!

What flange did you get? I have the Explorer 1330 flange but am having difficulty finding the correct adapter U joint.

[Big Dad]

wow, that freaking torque tube caused lots of problems..

[cool cat]

I might be doing this 8.8 later on as well. New spring perches are available for cheap, several aftermarket Jeep parts suppliers s sell them locally. Kevin has the part #'s some where.


Edit: Rugged Ridge part # 18267.02 has been used before.

[BLAKE]

Got a spare short-side axle and the pinion flange yesterday. Should be all I need. Going to shorten it to 65-66 width.

Any insight on the shortening process is appreciated, as well as what you did for spring perches and anything else I'm not thinking of that might be important.

Thanks man!

[homealone]

Headliner looks great man!

Also, thanks for the Exploder rear end pics. Thanks to some friends and some time sweating at the junk yard, I've got my 8.8 sitting in the shop. We'll be doing the same stuff and I think we'll retain those traction bars too, which is so damn cool. These pics are helpful!

Thanks, but like everything else, this is an experiment. We'll see how it holds up long term.

Did you get the extra short side axle while you were there? Or are you going to run it 67-70 width?

Let me know if you need any guidence, I'd be happy to walk you through the modification process.

[BLAKE]

Headliner looks great man!

Also, thanks for the Exploder rear end pics. Thanks to some friends and some time sweating at the junk yard, I've got my 8.8 sitting in the shop. We'll be doing the same stuff and I think we'll retain those traction bars too, which is so damn cool. These pics are helpful!

[homealone]

Very nice, bro!

Are you taking it out Wednesday to Mixed Up?

Planning on it. It's the only thing not boxed in right now. lol

[homealone]

Today I checked one more thing off the "to-do" list. I've been driving this thing around for a year looking at the insulated inner roof skin. A headliner was planned but not a big priority.

So today I knocked one out. What a difference, I should have done it earlier.

A little background. The original headliner was a rigid perforated board. Not the typical material and not available anymore.

I needed something thin, flexible and budget minded. I used Thermo Ply Poly Structural Sheathing (The stuff you wrap your house with) and the division bars for waterproof wall panels.

I was on such a roll I never stopped to take progress pics so you will only get before and after pics.

So with some math, a table saw, a little figuring, lots of trimming, here is what I ended up with.

Here is where I started.




This is where the material should be.




And here are a few shots of the finished headliner.

[DON SVO]

Love watching this thread, Kevin!