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LS-coupe cooling saga continues :(

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  • shumpertdavid
    replied
    Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
    he said it gets hot sitting still or moving. an air deflector will not fix his problem
    this is my thinking also, did you ever solve the problem with belt wrap, best I remember from the photo's you belt if routed to give correct rotation of the pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • jw33
    replied
    I doubt it's an airflow problem. My car will cycle the fans on/off sitting still in the heat and will run too cold if I force the fans to stay on. Thats with a stock F-body radiator/fans. Did you get your water pump belt routing sorted out? I think you were on the right path with that idea. Also what steam tube setup do you have between the two cylinder heads?

    Leave a comment:


  • greenbullitt
    replied
    Originally posted by MstangsBware View Post
    I agree with others on adding an air delfelctor or dam which ever you want to call it under the car to direct the air. I have seen just adding this part drop the temps up to 20* alone. Also make sure none your hoses are soft as they will collaspe at higher speeds once the coolant starts flowing...
    he said it gets hot sitting still or moving. an air deflector will not fix his problem

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  • MstangsBware
    replied
    I agree with others on adding an air delfelctor or dam which ever you want to call it under the car to direct the air. I have seen just adding this part drop the temps up to 20* alone. Also make sure none your hoses are soft as they will collaspe at higher speeds once the coolant starts flowing...

    Leave a comment:


  • Hobie
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post

    I have two electric fans going full tilt but my thought is maybe since it cant get access to fresh air through the front bumper it is just pulling air from the engine bay back through the radiator.
    Not to insult your intelligence, but the fans are pulling air from the front of the car and exhausting it towards the block, correct?

    Sort of confusing considering how that's worded. I think I see what you mean, but I just want to be clear.

    Leave a comment:


  • CRASH
    replied
    We used a water fill tube like this one on the '55. You can put it in the upper radiator hose and fill it through there at the highest point.



    -Aaron

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  • 71chevellejohn
    replied
    Hell, just for grins cut out some cardboard and block off the space beside the radiator from the engine bay. Then you can use it as a template for making something better looking if it works.

    One other point is that normal operating temp for those engines is around 210.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blackpony
    replied
    Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
    Try making some sort of deflector on the bottom of the core support that catches air and make it go up towards the radiator. Also add some deflectors along the side of the radiator that doesnt allow hot air to circulate back to the front and keeps the cooler air running across the core..
    Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
    I retract my previous statement about air deflector and insert air DAM rather. I understand what you are saying Blackpony, I was meaning the air dam that goes under the core support that is meant to help push air up into the radiator/condenser area. I've seen 82-93 camaros overheat at highway speed when they are missing, but cool great at idle.


    oh and a dam will block the air, a deflector will deflect/direct the air to where it is needed..

    Leave a comment:


  • big_tiger
    replied
    Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
    If your hose is too high I would cut the hose at the highest point. Insert a tube sleeve with a 1/8" pipe plug female fitting and a plug. When you fill the coolant pull the plug. Water will push the air out.

    Another method is to tap into a upper coolant jacket to release air. I am not familiar enough with LSx but do they have coolant passages in the rear of the intake?

    I installed a rear coolant cross over in my SBF Super Victor to feed my heater core and also give me a fitting to crack to blead air from.

    Look at how the 4v motors are set up with expansion tanks to fill instead of radiators. The Cobra R expansion tank used to be offered by FRPP for just this purpose. Cobra kit cars have been battling this problem since they started making them. Their radiators are slanted and lower than the motor which causes them to get air also.
    This, but you might have to piece together some different hoses since the hose you have now looks to have a wire in the hose.
    I also saw that you are missing the flaps on the cooling fan, and that's just another way for your fans to suck in engine heat.

    Leave a comment:


  • shumpertdavid
    replied
    I retract my previous statement about air deflector and insert air DAM rather. I understand what you are saying Blackpony, I was meaning the air dam that goes under the core support that is meant to help push air up into the radiator/condenser area. I've seen 82-93 camaros overheat at highway speed when they are missing, but cool great at idle.

    Leave a comment:


  • Txstang1
    replied
    Originally posted by redrocket5.0 View Post
    Look at the white Gt in background. Not too bad looking, dont know how a lx bumper would look cut. A little drastic, but an idea.
    No, that white GT looks like ass.

    OP, I would look into the possibly an air pocket like mentioned above.

    Is it losing any water? My GT has a 2 1 1/4in row aluminum radiator, a 98 mark 8 fan, stock water pump, 165 degree thermostat with the factory air deflecter under it. It runs 210-200 range in this heat with the AC on.

    What are the dimensions on that radiator? it doesn't look like a mustang radiator.

    Leave a comment:


  • greenbullitt
    replied
    if it doesnt have a blown hg...


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  • greenbullitt
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    Then what do I do, I've tried jacking the car up so that the water neck is the highest point and running it/leaving it. Tried filling it, running it, letting it cool, etc. I'd like to think this is the problem but if it is I don't know what to do to get the trapped air out.
    blue point makes a tool that allows you to pull a vacuum on the system

    Leave a comment:


  • greenbullitt
    replied
    have you done a block test yet? it could have a blown hg

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  • Blackpony
    replied
    Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
    Couple things, first an air deflector will not help your cooling issues at Idle. Second with a stock temp thermostat it will likely run in the 215-220 temp range on normal days. Hell, my regal has a 160 thermostat, 3 core brass radiator, and a tauras fan setup with a fan controller that I set to come on at 180. It has consistantly run 180-185 for how ever many years it's been setup this way. I did @ a 20 mile highway drive thursday in the heat of the day with the ac on and it was running in the 205-210 range. It's just that hot out. Try running it in the early morning or late night when it's cooler to see what it does.
    Actually is can if there is 300 degree air from the engine/headers being circulated back in front of the radiator because there arent any deflectors to block it.. You want to create a tunnel like in front of the radiator only allowing air from the front of the car to get to the radiator... A quick google search will net tons of info and results of this particular to the fox mustang.. they are horrible at cooling..

    Leave a comment:

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