Wire shield

[KBScobravert]

I need some simple methods of shielding wires from noise/interference. There are a few wires in my harness that need some sort of shield to prevent noise creating timing errors.

I have some stainless steel wire sleeve but it is only a short section and I need to shield roughly 4 feet. If the suggestion is simple enough I want to shield my ecu ground to battery wires also; about 12 feet.

Don't laugh but I thought about tin foil and ground to chassis.

[Whiteboy]

I have some Dei heat sheilding.

[KBScobravert]

I have some Dei heat sheilding.

Awesome.

Do you have any shield that block electrical noise though?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

[KBScobravert]

This is similar to what I am looking for.

http://www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=329&tid=14

I will be just as happy with the same stuff that Ford uses to wrap signal wires like PIP/SPOUT for TFI ignitions etc.

[shumpertdavid]

Both times I installed a fast I just pulled the shielding from the tfi wiring of the original ford harnesses to shield the distributor wires. I'm pretty sure you can wrap the wiring you want in tinfoil, wrap in a shielding ground along the way to bolt into a convenient place and tape it all up. The ford stuff is about the width of a role of tape.


You are going to find that you need a really good ground system(battery to block, battery to body, block to body, etc), and your crank and cam sensor wiring will likely need to be shielded. Keep your wiring as far from the coils as you can.

[KBScobravert]

Both times I installed a fast I just pulled the shielding from the tfi wiring of the original ford harnesses to shield the distributor wires. I'm pretty sure you can wrap the wiring you want in tinfoil, wrap in a shielding ground along the way to bolt into a convenient place and tape it all up. The ford stuff is about the width of a role of tape.


You are going to find that you need a really good ground system(battery to block, battery to body, block to body, etc), and your crank and cam sensor wiring will likely need to be shielded. Keep your wiring as far from the coils as you can.

I am redoing my grounding system right now.....again

The main ground for the battery and body runs to the frame 24" from battery, runs another 48" to the seat mount on pass side, another 48" to the back of the driver's cyl head, then over to the drivers frame rail inside the fender where the normal ground circuits connect (fuse box, etc).

The grounds for the ECU (3 of them), EPM (cam/crank sensor - 1 ground), 3.5bar AEM MAP (1 ground), AEM Bosch UEGO sensor (1 ground) are being grounded to the battery. All 12ga single wires from components to a insolated single pole stud then two 10ga wires going from the stud to the battery side lug.

None of the ECU or EFI grounds are grounded to body only to the battery.

My EPM wires (1 12v power triggered by the factory CCRM), 1 ground, 1 cam signal and 1 crank signal all are shielded in a stainless braided sleeve that was F'ing expensive (>$10 a foot). The shield runs from the component plug to the firewall barrel connector then inside the cab to the ECU. All the while it is shielded. I have yet to ground the shield though. I am not sure which will be best; ground to chassis or battery?

My need for more and CHEAPER shield now, is that I am thinking I may need to shield the two 10ga grounds for the ECU components. It runs from the pass kick panel to the battery in the trunk.

After reading all that, how does my current work sound? This is my first standalone system.

[shumpertdavid]

the ground wires shouldn't need to be shielded only your signal wires such as cam and crank like you've already done. The shield ground can go to the chassis, that should be fine. Your sensor grounds usually run back to the ecm not the battery (cam/crank sensor, tps, map sensor etc). I'm familiar with the AEM stuff, only done a couple fast systems and then working on various makes and models through work (I'm an auto tech by profession).

Your ground system from the battery to the subframe, engine, body, etc sounds pretty decent. On the 1st gen lighting and fox couple we ran a ground system from the battery to the body, inner fenders, core support, engine, etc.

Good grounds are a must. They're equally as important as a good power.

[KBScobravert]

the ground wires shouldn't need to be shielded only your signal wires such as cam and crank like you've already done. The shield ground can go to the chassis, that should be fine. Your sensor grounds usually run back to the ecm not the battery (cam/crank sensor, tps, map sensor etc). I'm familiar with the AEM stuff, only done a couple fast systems and then working on various makes and models through work (I'm an auto tech by profession).

Your ground system from the battery to the subframe, engine, body, etc sounds pretty decent. On the 1st gen lighting and fox couple we ran a ground system from the battery to the body, inner fenders, core support, engine, etc.

Good grounds are a must. They're equally as important as a good power.

Here is what sent me on this path of worrying.

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,23782.0.html

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,24839.0.html

If you wouldn't mind take a look at those links and tell me what you think.

Yes 90% of my system is AEM from ECU - EPM - MAP - Boost controller w/gauge, water temp, fuel psi, oil psi, and AEM Air/Fuel with the supplied Bosch sensor.

I actually worry less about the power supply. I did however put my Injector Driver on a relay with direct path to 12v/battery through a 12ga wire; ground just to chassis/battery.

My only sensor ground offered in the 60pin EEC-IV was pin 16 (Ign Ground). I had the EPM ground to it but could not get it to start. I made a quick breakout harness and gave the EPM direct chassis ground and was able to get it to start up. That is what makes me want to send it to the battery with the ECU.

Heck I think the only other sensor on a ground in my EFI system besides the EPM and MAP is the TPS.

[shumpertdavid]

Coolant and intake air temp will have sensor return (basically ground through ecm).

[shumpertdavid]

What's epm stand for, do you have a wiring schematic for what your car is supposed to be. Are you saying that the crank/cam sensor ground (i assume sensor return) is ran to battery?

[KBScobravert]

What's epm stand for, do you have a wiring schematic for what your car is supposed to be. Are you saying that the crank/cam sensor ground (i assume sensor return) is ran to battery?

I have TONS of wiring schematics and have actually built my own harness (several versions to date) from bone scratch with new EEC-IV pins, new wire, etc.

The EPM is an AEM Engine Position Module.

It takes the place of the distributor and allows me to run coil on plug on my pushrod 302. It has 4 wires (cam signal, crank signal, power, ground). The instructions say to just ground to chassis but I am leary and going to go to battery. Power is KO switched through the CCRM (95 Cobra). Crank signal is the PIP returning to the original PIP pin in the ECM 60pin. The Cam signal returns to a 12 pin in the ECM. All 4 are shielded to prevent signal errors causing timing errors.......no, no on my E85 turbo motor.

Coolant and intake air temp will have sensor return (basically ground through ecm).

Right but they are labeled on my 60pin as IAT and ECT shairing a common 5v reference. That is why I didn't list them as grounds but yes, I get it.

[shumpertdavid]

Sounds like you should have it covered pretty well I think. The only shielding that was necessary on the fast were the cam and crank signals, we used a fast distributor. I learned the hard way on the first install that it was needed. Chased a cam and crank signal code for while before going back and shielding. Learning curve for sure.

[mk5.0]

I need some simple methods of shielding wires from noise/interference. There are a few wires in my harness that need some sort of shield to prevent noise creating timing errors..

I would just replace those couple of wires with sheilded wire. The stuff is cheap and works great. Hell I can probaly get you enough for what you need.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html

[KBScobravert]

I would just replace those couple of wires with sheilded wire. The stuff is cheap and works great. Hell I can probaly get you enough for what you need.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html

Perfect for what I need. Thanks. No pushing wires through the braid since the shield is individual to the wire already. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...shieldwire.php

I need to get back in the garage tomorrow morning and see how much I need.

[KBScobravert]

Looks like I had enough of the small 1-2 16ga wire stainless braided shield.

Thanks guys. We now have shielded wire from component to the ECU.