My car is a 1993 coupe. I have an air filter on it and I'm unsure of the brand,no a lot of oil. It's new. And the bbk meter was new in the box in the car when I got it. When I unplug the mass air it surges. Like it would with a stuck iac valve.
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IIRC, the BBK mass air for "cold air" is designed to be used behind a 90 degree inlet like BBK and some other fox body cold air kits. The factory style is designed for a straight inlet like factory or some other cold air kits. I don't know if there is any physical difference or just a tuning change. I think the 90 degree turn going into the mass air changes the air flow and sampling through the meter.Originally posted by Mustang87t View PostMine is for 24lb injectors. But according to bbk it's for a stock air box. What's the difference
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The maf isn't the problem then.Originally posted by Mustang87t View PostMy car is a 1993 coupe. I have an air filter on it and I'm unsure of the brand,no a lot of oil. It's new. And the bbk meter was new in the box in the car when I got it. When I unplug the mass air it surges. Like it would with a stuck iac valve.Full time ninja editor.
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My intake is a straight design. The only bend is right before the TB. I replaced the upper plenum gasket due to it leaking and that didn't help. When I first start it it will run for a few minutes and then die unless you give it gas. And if you try to rev it up a little it studders above about 3000 rpm. So I suspected it to be the maf. I'm sure a tune would solve the problem.
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In the old day's, you could rotate your maf 90* either way and see if that helps. Theory was that the sampling tube would get a better/accurate read on air flow. Just a thoughtOriginally posted by Mustang87t View PostMy intake is a straight design. The only bend is right before the TB. I replaced the upper plenum gasket due to it leaking and that didn't help. When I first start it it will run for a few minutes and then die unless you give it gas. And if you try to rev it up a little it studders above about 3000 rpm. So I suspected it to be the maf. I'm sure a tune would solve the problem.2012 SRT8 Challenger 392 Hemi-6 speed
Bright Silver Metallic w/ Black Stripes
Leg Maker Inc. 4"Carbon Fiber CAI
Speedlogix Catch Can
Resonator Delete
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You need a volt meter, and you need to measure the return voltage on the sensor. .98v at idle and 4.5v+ at WOT. Do this this key on engine off. To adjust it, loosen the mounting bolts and move it. You may have to do some filing to get it right.Originally posted by Mustang87t View Postok. heres another question. could the tps sensor have anything to do with it? the throttle body was already on the intake when i got the car just not on the engine. and how do i go about adjusting it?
TPS wouldn't cause a surging idle, have you checked the IACV?
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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When it's warm it's fine?Originally posted by Mustang87t View PostWhat I was sayin about it surging is when I unplug the maf it surges like its a stuck iac. Not all the time. My problem is it will run for a few minutes then die when its first started and it has horrible throttle response when it's cold.
Or does it run like shit all the time? Most of the time when the maf is miscalibtated it will have dead spots in the power band. Atleast from what I've expeiranced. I had a 30# c&l with stock injectors, after around 300 it fell on it's face.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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Coolant pipe, the one for the gauge is in the intake and it just has a push on connector.Originally posted by Mustang87t View PostYeah the temp sensor was my next culprit. Which one is it. There's one for the gauge I know of cause I replaced it. Is it the one in the intake or the coolant pipe?
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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