anyone have a stock fan or ds lx tail light

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

Got it. What gauge to the battery source to the relay and what gauge from the key on fuse to the relay. 14 for the battery? and something smaller for the 12v source?

eh, I am going to use 8 or 10 for the power, and 14 is fine for the relay.

[dville_gt]

My goal was to wire this thing to be on when the key is in the on position. So the positve from the fan goes to 87 and just ground the fan to the car. The run a wire from the fuse box to 30. And then all that's left is to run a toggle switch to 86 and 85?

use a test light and find a fuse in the fuse box that goes hot when the ignition comes on. they make little slip deals that will slide over the hot side of the fuse then run that wire to 86 on the fuse and ground 85. run a 10 gauge wire from the starter solnoid to an inline fuse (i like to use the maxi fuses here) and then to 30 on the relay. then run from 87 to the fan and ground the other side of the fan. this way when you turn on the ignition it completes the circuit between 86 (+) and 85 (-) which connects 30 to 87 thus turning the fan on.

[TEAMJACOB]

think of it this way. if you have a switch (be it a toggle switch that you manually operate or a switched wire from a PCM or fan controller) it most likely will not be designed to handle the kind of amps a high powered accessory like an electric fan, fuel pump, etc. is going to require. you run large gauge wire that is capable of the high amperage to the relay and from the relay to the accessory. then you run the switched hot (or ground) to the relay. when the relay has a completed circuit between the + and the - it connects the large gauge feed wire to the accessory. this allows you to not need super heavy duty switches to operate accessories that would normally need them.

this image is how it works



you run large gauge from a fused +12v source to 30. you run the fan or whatever on 87. when 85 and 86 make a complete circuit (meaning one has + and one has - it connects 30 to 87). when 85 and 86 are not making a complete circuit 30 and 87a are connected. this is the typical 5 pin bosch relay. these are normally 30 amp so you'll probably want to find one that is 50amp.

i bought a controller today from the parts store. its a hayden part number 226204. it has a relay that is exactly the same as the one pictured above to the left. does the "30" on the bottom mean 30 amp? if so and i am running a mach 1 fan, will this be enough or should i/ could i replace with a bigger relay?

lastly, ive searched and can not find the cfm of a mach 1 fan. does anyone know?
thanks

[SEB]

I got a stock DS

[TEAMJACOB]

I got a stock DS

ds?

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

ds?

Lol, he's thinking drive shaft, your thinking driver's side...

[TEAMJACOB]

i have been able to conclude that 2001 to 2004 fans are all the same for at least gt, mach 1 and cobra's. even with this info, i cant find the cfm or the amp draw on start up

[TEAMJACOB]

eh, I am going to use 8 or 10 for the power, and 14 is fine for the relay.

when grounding the fan, the existing connected to the fan are 10 gauge. i need to extend this wire since i cut the connector off. when i extend it, does the ground have to be 10 gauge? i went ahead and did my positive side off the fan as 10 gauge but what about the ground? i have lots of 14 gauge so if i can use that, it would be great.

[DriveWayBuilt]

I tried running one of them fans with out a relay and it melted the wire and toggle switch in about 2 minutes lol. Im using a 75 amp relay now with no problems.


Im also using 14G wire for my ground with out a problem.

[SEB]

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/3179712179.html

[TEAMJACOB]

i have been trying to wire up a fan out of a 2003 mustang to my fox. i bought a hayden controller from oreillys. the ac was suppose to turn on the fan and it didnt. i went ahead and let the car warm up to see if the thermo sensor would turn it on and as soon as it tried to kick on, it popped a fuse. the fan is wired like this...
ground coming from fan grounded to frame.
red wire from fan ran to the controller with an inline fuse (25 i believe).
the low speed wire on the fan is cut and tucked away.
the relay that came with the controller is a 30 amp relay
the controller its self has
a red wire that i ran to the back of the alternator for the constant 12v source
a yellow wire that is for ignition that needs a 12v source with the key on that i ran to a wire on the alternator harness the gets hot with key on.
a black ground
and a green wire that i tied into the ac switch on the dryer that gets hot with the ac on.
i dont know why the fan wouldnt come on when i turn the ac on or why the fuse popped when the thermo sensor finally told it to come on based on temperature

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

I have the same fan. I am only using a 30amp relay that comes on with the key. I have a 10gauge wire from battery side of starter relay, to fan relay under dash, out to the fan. And a 10gauge ground from fan to frame. Works great. Its always on. Simple.

[TEAMJACOB]

I have the same fan. I am only using a 30amp relay that comes on with the key. I have a 10gauge wire from battery side of starter relay, to fan relay under dash, out to the fan. And a 10gauge ground from fan to frame. Works great. Its always on. Simple.

I appreciate all your replies in here. If I can't get the controller working, ill simplify it with how you ran it. Right now, I have a lot of time tied up on shrink wrapping and running wires to hide them so I really don't want to give up yet. I read that since that fan pulls so much on start up, the little 25 amp fuse may not be enough. Might need a slow burn fuse?

[Rotortrash]

I have the same controller in my fox, it works perfectly. I live in Saginaw, aren't you close to there?

If so, I can bring mine by as an Aggie blue print.

[TEAMJACOB]

I have the same controller in my fox, it works perfectly. I live in Saginaw, aren't you close to there?

If so, I can bring mine by as an Aggie blue print.

Cool. Yeah I live in blue mound. What fan?