Piston to valve clearance??

[uglydogo]

I have a set of Windsor sr. Heads with triple spring. I'll be running a F-303 cam with a set 1.72 rocker. And was going to use a stock short block(stock trw pistons). I was wondering if I had to fly cut the pistons or could I just ruin what I got? 2.02 intake valve 1.60 exhaust valve. Would my piston to valve clearance be ok?

[91CoupeMike]

.544 lift w/ 2.02 valve? To my knowledge that will not clear.

I ran an f303 w/ 1.72s w/ stock heads and pistons, theyre slightly fly cut already, and it cleared fine, but you have different heads AND a 2.02 valve.

Either way, checking for piston valve clearance on ANY combination of parts is 100% Protocal IMO. You never know! So always clay them or do a hand turn. Never just "trust it".

There will be people that say get an old 2.02 valve and glue some sand paper to it and throw it in a drill to do a "DIY" fly cut, this WILL work but you CAN fuck it up in a hurry and burn/cut a hole in the piston top, they are thin to begin with.

That being said, most small block chevy heads have 2.02 valves and be careful.

[R3_82GT]

I'm running AFR 185s with 2.02 Valves, a F cam and Ford Motorsport 1.7 Roller Rockers in my 306, but I have the Keith Black pistons with valve reliefs in them. I can't remember exacly how much clearance I had when I clayed my pistons for clearance, but it wasn't that much. So at a minimum check, but I'm pretty sure you would have to fly cut the pistons.

[fordracer2]

I have a set of Windsor sr. Heads with triple spring. I'll be running a F-303 cam with a set 1.72 rocker. And was going to use a stock short block(stock trw pistons). I was wondering if I had to fly cut the pistons or could I just ruin what I got? 2.02 intake valve 1.60 exhaust valve. Would my piston to valve clearance be ok?

When i first got into 5.0 motors i was like a mad scientist on this very subject and can say that's a 100% big fat NO! The valve relieves on the stock TRW's are small in diameter not big enough for the 2.02 valve. If by some weird freak of nature they did clear (but won't) it would be so close that if you had any kind of valve float your smacking a piston and toasting the hole motor! I have only seen this work with Trick flow twisted wedges because of the relocated intake Valve toward the center of the piston. I have ran the Windsor Sr's before it's a good head for the money and should do good with the F-cam but pistons got to come out and get cut! You could leave stock cam in it it might clear that way? .444 lift and valve is not open long i.e duration. good luck hope this helps.

[fordracer2]

I'm running AFR 185s with 2.02 Valves, a F cam and Ford Motorsport 1.7 Roller Rockers in my 306, but I have the Keith Black pistons with valve reliefs in them. I can't remember exacly how much clearance I had when I clayed my pistons for clearance, but it wasn't that much. So at a minimum check, but I'm pretty sure you would have to fly cut the pistons.

My current set up is close to yours AFR 185's etc. what kind of times you turning? if you don't mind me asking. dyno?

[fordracer2]

.544 lift w/ 2.02 valve? To my knowledge that will not clear.

I ran an f303 w/ 1.72s w/ stock heads and pistons, theyre slightly fly cut already, and it cleared fine, but you have different heads AND a 2.02 valve.

Either way, checking for piston valve clearance on ANY combination of parts is 100% Protocal IMO. You never know! So always clay them or do a hand turn. Never just "trust it".

There will be people that say get an old 2.02 valve and glue some sand paper to it and throw it in a drill to do a "DIY" fly cut, this WILL work but you CAN fuck it up in a hurry and burn/cut a hole in the piston top, they are thin to begin with.

That being said, most small block chevy heads have 2.02 valves and be careful.

LOL, what people?

[91CoupeMike]

LOL, what people?

Ive seen it in other threads, I personally wouldn't do it, for the fact that I would completely trash the the piston lol. It works just has a uneeded level of sketchyness.

[fordracer2]

Ive seen it in other threads, I personally wouldn't do it, for the fact that I would completely trash the the piston lol. It works just has a uneeded level of sketchyness.

Hey when you doin this H/C/I swap? Do you have any of the parts yet?

[91CoupeMike]

Hey when you doin this H/C/I swap? Do you have any of the parts yet?

I have all the parts, even the cam degree kit. What's holding me back is head bolts, header bolts and all the gaskets. Been shopping around for the best prices on them. So far rock auto is the cheapest.

Oh yeah, and the motor mounts for my aje.

My rear end in the car is the SUCK right now, I have a 8.8 axle housing, new gears, 31 spline carrier w/ carbon clutches and weld in torque box plates. I need 31 spline 4 lug axles and that will be a done deal. I need to get the rear end built, boxes welded and order some tubular control arms and I'll be set.

My control arms started popping since I lowered it and the last thing I want to do is throw 70-90 more hp to the torque boxes and rip the dog doo doo out of them.

Been working 50 hours last few weeks and doesn't look like I'll be easing up anytime soon, making money for the parts but no time to work on the car! Plus I have another project for a daily driver I'm working on too.

Brodix 5.0st r, anderson b25, systemax, accufab race 70mm, 90mm lightning maf, 3.5in power pipe, bbk ceramic long tubes, x pipe, spin tech super pro streets.. Should be a nasty little car. The b25 should love some nitrous so I forsee a 100+ shot.

[uglydogo]

Thank guys for all the info!! I have a set of dss pistons that have huge two valve reliefs. I would have to buy a set of rods for them (floating wrist pins). But whatever it takes. I really want a nice sounding motor. That has know issues right off the bat.

[91CoupeMike]

Thank guys for all the info!! I have a set of dss pistons that have huge two valve reliefs. I would have to buy a set of rods for them (floating wrist pins). But whatever it takes. I really want a nice sounding motor. That has know issues right off the bat.

F303 is a choppy cam, I liked the way mine sounded. It never ran worth a dam due to stock valve springs. I didn't build that motor that's just the way I bought it. Lol I broke a valve spring or two.

[uglydogo]

Yeah I'm tired of just trowing shit together and crossing my fingers. Lol. I'm ready to duild a nice little set up. Does anyone have a set of rods?

[fordracer2]

Yeah I'm tired of just trowing shit together and crossing my fingers. Lol. I'm ready to duild a nice little set up. Does anyone have a set of rods?

You can get a set of scat 4340 I-beams in jegs for around $300.

[FoxBodyNick]

The max lift on the cam does not have everything to do with pvc its the duration and ramp rates that cause issues. The piston will be at the bottom of the cylinder when the valve will be at its furthest. there are a few people that havent has problems with similar specs with those heads but its highly unlikely with the 2.02. All you can do is put it in, compress the head gasket and check. All motors are different.

Edit: somewhere up above i saw tw heads and forgot he was talking about windsor sr heads

[fordracer2]

I have all the parts, even the cam degree kit. What's holding me back is head bolts, header bolts and all the gaskets. Been shopping around for the best prices on them. So far rock auto is the cheapest.

Oh yeah, and the motor mounts for my aje.

My rear end in the car is the SUCK right now, I have a 8.8 axle housing, new gears, 31 spline carrier w/ carbon clutches and weld in torque box plates. I need 31 spline 4 lug axles and that will be a done deal. I need to get the rear end built, boxes welded and order some tubular control arms and I'll be set.

My control arms started popping since I lowered it and the last thing I want to do is throw 70-90 more hp to the torque boxes and rip the dog doo doo out of them.
Make sure those torque boxes are lined up perfectly before you weld them up. I did the UPR boxes that are bolt in/weld in that way i bolted them in left them a little lose installed the lowers then tightened and welded them checking alignment as i went. I can rebuild your traction loc for you for nothing (time permitted) if you can not. I have done a few including my own with the Kevlar kit it works good (see my sig pic). That is a good combo of parts you got its gonna run good. Some of the people that give you shit about your car won't have anything to say after that. wait, no they still will lol.
Been working 50 hours last few weeks and doesn't look like I'll be easing up anytime soon, making money for the parts but no time to work on the car! Plus I have another project for a daily driver I'm working on too.

Brodix 5.0st r, anderson b25, systemax, accufab race 70mm, 90mm lightning maf, 3.5in power pipe, bbk ceramic long tubes, x pipe, spin tech super pro streets.. Should be a nasty little car. The b25 should love some nitrous so I forsee a 100+ shot.

I did the UPR boxes that are bolt in/weld in that way i bolted them in left them a little lose installed the lowers then tightened and welded them checking alignment as i went. I can rebuild your traction loc for you for nothing (time permitted) if you can not. I have done a few including my own with the Kevlar kit it works good (see my sig pic). That is a good combo of parts you got its gonna run good. Some of the people that give you shit about your car won't have anything to say after that. wait, no they still will lol.