Billet steel Spec Flywheel with an Exedy stage 2 clutch
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Clutch/flywheel advice.
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Shouldn't bog off the line anyway. I've never had that problem and I've run a aluminum wheel behind a 393w and a set up identical to yours pretty much.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostWasn't thinking of it that way. Wouldn't reducing my flywheel mass increase bog off the line?
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biggest bunch of bullshit I've ever heard. If you drive a 1.6L honda that could be an issue, but with a 300+ci V8 you'll wish you woud have done it sooner along with an aluminum balancer. Plus like someone else said the aluminum wheels have a removable face that you can replace if it wears out and they still bring decent money used because of that.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostWasn't thinking of it that way. Wouldn't reducing my flywheel mass increase bog off the line?
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See now this is what happens. I'm on your side but then I have people telling it will just suck ass for driveabilty, have to rev it extra high to get rolling ect.. But I bet it runs like a motherfucker once it's rolling.Originally posted by jw33 View Postbiggest bunch of bullshit I've ever heard. If you drive a 1.6L honda that could be an issue, but with a 300+ci V8 you'll wish you woud have done it sooner along with an aluminum balancer. Plus like someone else said the aluminum wheels have a removable face that you can replace if it wears out and they still bring decent money used because of that.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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Just put the cheap shit in there. $35 for a stock flywheel? Sounds good. Sure you can get a cheap clutch setup too from AZ since you work there.
And I have been out of the drag stuff since high school, but the comment about rotating mass seems like a load of shit.
Just thinking about weight, all the steel shit is heavier, so it would seem to me that it would actually drag on the motor since there is more weight to rotate?
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They don't know shit or they drive a 95hp FWD. You will never know it is even there driving it around everyday.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostSee now this is what happens. I'm on your side but then I have people telling it will just suck ass for driveabilty, have to rev it extra high to get rolling ect.. But I bet it runs like a motherfucker once it's rolling.
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It depends on what you're trying to do, sometimes a heavier flywheel is better than a light one.Originally posted by 91GriggsGT View PostJust put the cheap shit in there. $35 for a stock flywheel? Sounds good. Sure you can get a cheap clutch setup too from AZ since you work there.
And I have been out of the drag stuff since high school, but the comment about rotating mass seems like a load of shit.
Just thinking about weight, all the steel shit is heavier, so it would seem to me that it would actually drag on the motor since there is more weight to rotate?
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welp, might as well attack that seal while you are in there. lolLast edited by 5.0Thunder; 07-05-2013, 12:35 AM.
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There was always oil on the bottom of the bell housing and you can see on the block plate where it had been dripping behind the flywheel. But I never had any oil on the ground, which makes me think it's the bolt because it would only leak with the engine running at a certain oil pressure (theory).
I've had a rear main on my shelf for about 2 years, so might aswell.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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I wouldn't think that a bolt would leak unless the threads got facked during a flywheel install or something but maybe it is still finding a way through.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostThere was always oil on the bottom of the bell housing and you can see on the block plate where it had been dripping behind the flywheel. But I never had any oil on the ground, which makes me think it's the bolt because it would only leak with the engine running at a certain oil pressure (theory).
I've had a rear main on my shelf for about 2 years, so might aswell.
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