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Engine Rebuild - 302

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  • #16
    Originally posted by racrguy View Post
    I wouldn't trust a stock block anywhere around that power level. With you wanting to buy a supercharger I'd go ahead and buy a good block and be done with it. Nothing worse than buying good internals and shitting them out the bottom because of a broke block.
    True... i saw the dart blocks going for 4K ? Is that correct ?

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    • #17
      Rebuild the stock block with a girdle, punch it out to a 306 or 331 if you're brave, Trick Flow H/C/I, and an Strim. You'll be close to where you want with that.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by HECDOGGIE View Post
        True... i saw the dart blocks going for 4K ? Is that correct ?
        4k? I think you can get a sportsman for somewhere in the neighborhood of 1600.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Aceman85turbo View Post
          LS truck motor
          yep with a hairdryer or turboooo

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          • #20
            Cam would get the sound your're looking for.
            sigpic

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            • #21
              buy some good aluminum heads, get a custom grind cam and long tubes. I think thats what you are going for
              Big Rooster Racing
              1985 Mustang GT

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              • #22
                Start with a leak down/compression test to ensure the bottom end is healthy. No sense in throwing money into the top end if the bottom end is no good. I have a leak down tester and a compression tester if you need them. Both easy, free tests to do. Then we can give you some ideas on a nice top end that would fit your budget. A lot of these guys love giving suggestions on the best parts, or LS swaps, but forget about someone else's budget.
                Scott Ganow
                Lone Star Performance
                16300 Midway Rd
                Addison, TX 75001
                214-630-5006

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by HECDOGGIE View Post
                  True... i saw the dart blocks going for 4K ? Is that correct ?
                  You can get an shp Block for less than 2000
                  Originally posted by soap
                  i can fix anything from a broken tractor to an aching pussy!!!

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                  • #24
                    I'll agree with the others, figure out if your short block is useable, then re-use/rebuild/replace and go with a heathly HCI setup. Screw spending $2,000 or more for a block that you most likely won't push hard enough to justify spending that much on.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 00KBGT View Post
                      Start with a leak down/compression test to ensure the bottom end is healthy. No sense in throwing money into the top end if the bottom end is no good. I have a leak down tester and a compression tester if you need them. Both easy, free tests to do. Then we can give you some ideas on a nice top end that would fit your budget. A lot of these guys love giving suggestions on the best parts, or LS swaps, but forget about someone else's budget.
                      Thanks for the offer.... I would really appreciate any help....especially Free Help

                      <---- IN North Garland

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by cool cat View Post
                        I'll agree with the others, figure out if your short block is useable, then re-use/rebuild/replace and go with a heathly HCI setup. Screw spending $2,000 or more for a block that you most likely won't push hard enough to justify spending that much on.
                        Did you miss the SC and 500 RWHP part? Either one of those is enough for me to warrant a dart block, both together make it a requirement. IMO

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by racrguy View Post
                          Did you miss the SC and 500 RWHP part? Either one of those is enough for me to warrant a dart block, both together make it a requirement. IMO
                          Sure didn't.

                          He said 500 HP, no where was RWHP mentioned. He also said "drive it from time to time... don't want it to be slow", and that building a 500 hp motor would more than likely be more than he wants to spend. Thus the reason why I suggested a healthy HCI combo. If that isn't enough power, then it is time to pony up for the dart block.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by racrguy View Post
                            Did you miss the SC and 500 RWHP part? Either one of those is enough for me to warrant a dart block, both together make it a requirement. IMO

                            Very good point. well taken.

                            May do the leak/ compression test and go from there..
                            Thoughts are H/C/I for now.

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                            • #29
                              ^^^ let me know, I'm in McKinney, but have no problem driving to you.
                              Scott Ganow
                              Lone Star Performance
                              16300 Midway Rd
                              Addison, TX 75001
                              214-630-5006

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                              • #30
                                Having just built a new dart 347 I would have gone this route or something similar if I could do it all over. I have over 6k in mine and reused the rods and crank. Even if I needed to have it torn down and inspected for piece of mind I would have come out a lot better.



                                Last edited by 93coupett; 09-17-2013, 07:42 PM.
                                www.cowlgaugeconcepts.com and on Facebook

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