my 7.3 excursion is a dog but 250k and not one problem. this is my 4th 7.3 and other than cam sensor's have never done anything but change the oil and they all were 200k + and not even a cam sensor in this one. will never be able to justify the jump to a common rail. ever.
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Cummins injectors attn**cooter or Paul
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try buying a set from dodge at retail...4200.00 lmaoOriginally posted by barronj View PostI have no perspective for diesels except for what I read on here, but got damn, $1800 for a set of injectors is a hook up? Whoa. You diesel fellas sho gotta pay to play.Ring and pinion specialist
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The engine and trans can nearly do the same up to a point....however, stopping and controlling a 13-15k pound load the 1500 fails badly. Our 2010 1500 could yank our 24' trailer around anywhere up to about 50mph...then it was white knuckling it and it only took one time for me to watch my wife doing a tank slapper coming off the highway from hitting bump. Damn near wadded it up right in front of me with my 2500 and 28' trailer right behind. Dumped the 1500 and bought a 3500 that if we ever upgrade to a single trailer (stacker or 48' GN) I can then sell the 2500.Originally posted by jw33 View PostA newer gasoline 1500 series truck can do a lot these days. I'm not trying to say they are as powerful as a 2500 diesel, but unless you need that towing capability every day I can see dealing with all the extra costs.
95% of the research I have done on the injector failures is that they are LEAKING, not failing at the coil/magnet. Some suggest due to dirt clogging the injector, others suggest varnish build up from cheap fuels, then others suggest water in the fuel acting like a water jet cutter destroying the injector tip, and others say they just wear out due to lack of lubricity in post 2007 fuels. ALL of those factors can be eliminated pretty easily.
I have a 3500 with a 5.9 and 125k miles, and 2500 with a 6.7 and 70k miles with a lot of deletes. I am going to swap injectors on the 5.9 and keep putting 2 cycle oil and injector cleaner in every tank. It's a gamble but I think a reasonable one. The 6.7 is just going to keep getting 2 cycle oil and injector cleaner for now. Both trucks have tuners and run great....I just wish the 6.7 had the NV5600 like our 3500 instead of the G56. I daily the 6.7 2500 and it's fine with a nice light clutch. I just can't put any power to it or it slips BAD. That will be fixed with a twin disc and back on with the 100hp tune.
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You towed 13k with a 1500? That is crazy. I had around 6.5K (toy hauler) behind my 1500 long bed with a 5.3 just the other day and it was probably at or very near the limit for that truck. It will run down the flat road at 70-75, but it stayed in 4th gear most of the time and it got 7mpg.
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yeah....and they come with single digit mileage....unloaded! I drove a 3/4 ton 4x4 back in 04 when I bought my first diesel. It was a manual and ran great in 1st and 2nd gear. in 3rd it could not get out of it's own way let alone with a trailer on it. If it came with 4.30's or 4.56's with the gasser, maybe...but the 3.73's were useless!Originally posted by Sean88gt View PostThey do make 3/4 and 1 tons with gas engines
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was a short 8 mile tow from the house to TWS. Trailer, race car, all support gear and stuff in that truck with the load distributing hitch was probably near that but I may be too high as I have never weighed that trailer. It isn't light at all. Truck is rated at 10,500# towing.Originally posted by jw33 View PostYou towed 13k with a 1500? That is crazy. I had around 6.5K (toy hauler) behind my 1500 long bed with a 5.3 just the other day and it was probably at or very near the limit for that truck. It will run down the flat road at 70-75, but it stayed in 4th gear most of the time and it got 7mpg.
Have a buddy that is going to TRY and tow a 26' enclosed aluminum trailer that is decked out with a Tundra. I've told him several times now that he should start shopping for a 3/4 ton at minimum. He gets the trailer in a couple weeks. I can't wait to hear his report! LOL! Hell, my 3/4 ton with the 3.42 gears can be a dog when really loaded. I am thinking of getting 3.92's or whatever the next set of gears are. Ever since they started using AAC axles instead of the Dana's, I have lost touch with details on them. I also need to go down in tire size as this truck came with a +1 tire that is about 1.5" taller than stock.
eh, first world problems I guess! LOL!
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I had one back in 00, a early 98 quad 2wd dually. I don't remember it being terrible. I figured a well done one with the 5R110W behind it would be a reliable/economical rig. I have a 06 2wd dodge 2500 that I love to tow with. Don't like the truck, just love the way it tows when pulling heavy.Originally posted by Cooter View PostI just sold my 97 12v. I bought it about a year ago. Never drove it, so I sold it.
You might think you want a 12v until you drive one... they just don't compare to a 6.4 or 6.7 V8 IMO
I like the power my 6.4 makes no doubt, it is just when it breaks. I'm about to hit 500 miles on this 6.7 and I can honestly say it is the best all around diesel truck I've ever been in. Quite, economical, powerful, etc. I don't know what they changed but it rides way better than my 6.4, its also much more quite in cabin, not just engine noise, but wind/road noise. I'm seriously thinking about leaving it 100% stock, which would be a first with any vehicle for me.
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Don't put a 5r behind a Cummins IMO. it won't hold the low rpm torque, and you'll spend forever getting the stand alone controller dialed in...
I would go built dodge 4sp or wiggle stick. But really though, I wouldn't swap a Cummins. Total waste of time and money.
Matt, factory AAM ratios are 3.42, 3.73, and 4.10. You should be able to find somebody who will trade axles with you
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