Question on camshaft break in

[AdRock]

Just installed a new 5.0 long block in my 95 F150. The only thing that isn't stock is the camshaft. It's a Comp Cam 35-308-8. I threw the extra zinc in that then engine shop gave me for the cam break in. I was 10 minutes into breaking in the cam and some vacuum lines dropped on to the exhaust manifold and caught fire.

I shut it down and spent the next few hours repairing the vacuum lines. It was after midnight when I got done so I couldn't continue the break in procedure. That was this past Saturday. Is this going to hurt anything if I just Start it back up and run it for another 20 minutes? I really don't want to lose a lobe on this thing.

[SC457A]

Its a roller cam. Your good.

[Lone Sailor]

As long as the new cam was well lubed when installed you shouldn't have any problems beings it's a roller.

[racrguy]

Its a roller cam. Your good.

As long as the new cam was well lubed when installed you shouldn't have any problems beings it's a roller.

This. Flat tappets are where you run into break-in/zinc issues.

[AdRock]

I'm really hoping you guys are right. Replacing the long block wasn't fun and I really don't want to tear it back down again.

[racrguy]

If it was going to flatten, it would have done it at startup.

[YALE]

It's not just a roller, but a hydraulic roller. What these guys say.

[racrguy]

It's not just a roller, but a hydraulic roller. What these guys say.

I didn't figure we needed to get into that level of specificity.

[AdRock]

What I find so odd is that the general consensus seems to be that roller cams don't need to be broken in. I keep seeing that everywhere. But Comp says that it needs to be broken in and the engine builder gave me 2 bottles of zinc and said to break it in like a regular flat tappet cam. Does anyone know why it seems to be all over the map on what should actually be done?

[garycrist]

If I warranty the part, and I know the world is full of people that have the ability
to flatten a steel ball with a rubber mallet then, I would suggest a 2nd. bottle too!
The down side to the E.O.S. (G.M. it was the best back when) Zinc can be hard on plugs and Cats.
A little extra safety is worth not pulling the cam again.

[Lone Sailor]

What I find so odd is that the general consensus seems to be that roller cams don't need to be broken in. I keep seeing that everywhere. But Comp says that it needs to be broken in and the engine builder gave me 2 bottles of zinc and said to break it in like a regular flat tappet cam. Does anyone know why it seems to be all over the map on what should actually be done?

Why do dentists tell us to brush and floss immediately following every meal when they know damn well that's not going to happen.

[Woods Racing Transmission]

FWIW a roller cam shouldn't need any "break in" period. Flat tappet cams do and they need some type oil that has zinc in it. IMO those additives are junk! You should use a quality break in oil if you have a flat tappet cam, Brad Penn works very well and it can be filtered and used again. If you have a roller just use a quality petroleum based oil and a quality filter.

[AdRock]

If I warranty the part, and I know the world is full of people that have the ability
to flatten a steel ball with a rubber mallet then, I would suggest a 2nd. bottle too!
The down side to the E.O.S. (G.M. it was the best back when) Zinc can be hard on plugs and Cats.
A little extra safety is worth not pulling the cam again.

I know exactly what you mean with the rubber mallet comment. Consider the person to be a complete dunce on the subject until they show you otherwise. I had the feeling that this might just be a CYA type of thing.

[Whiteboy]

No zinc need on roller only flat tappett cams