Help with 4.10 Ford racing gears

[Jeremy2004GT]

I wanted a second opinion on my install. I used a .030 shim for the pinion gear. The back lash is set at .012 per my dial indicator. The axle is a 8.8 with 4.10 Ford Racing Gears.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[john98gt]

did you measure the pinion shim or just stick the factory one in/ also i would set the backlash to .010

[Jeremy2004GT]

did you measure the pinion shim or just stick the factory one in/ also i would set the backlash to .010

measured .030 shim...why set the backlash at .010

[john98gt]

ford recommends 8 to 12 thousands 13 being 2 loose and 7 being too tight. are you getting 12 with the axles in? so i always go in the middle at 10 with the axles out then it comes to around 8.5 to 9 with the axles in

[Mixedup]

looks likes (SLIM - YPOV?)

gears are not wearing even SLIM - WHERE YOU AT?

[Jeremy2004GT]

ford recommends 8 to 12 thousands 13 being 2 loose and 7 being too tight. are you getting 12 with the axles in? so i always go in the middle at 10 with the axles out then it comes to around 8.5 to 9 with the axles in

.012 with the axle's out.so with the axle's in i should be at .10 to .11 backlash.

[Jeremy2004GT]

gears are not wearing even SLIM - WHERE YOU AT?

??

[Jonny00GT]

If you still have the factory pinion you pulled out, measure the thickness of the head where the shim rides to the face of the pinion and then the factory shim. That's the total number you want from the 4:10 pinion head + shim to get your correct run in. That's how I always backed into it without the special tool. So take the factory head + shim figure, subtract the 4:10 pinion head thickness and hope it gives you .030.

I always set my back lash to .009-.01 before I check the patern. I also check the patern on the ring gear on both sides AND on the pinion. Not sure what axles in has to do with it. If the end caps are tight and you have the correct amount of preload, then Bob's your Uncle!

Also, I like to check the patern with grease cause it leaves a bead in the crack of the ring gear showing you how deep in it will ride as well as where the contact is.

Good luck, Bro!

-Jonny

[turbostang]

I didn't read all of the posts and might be missing some info - but your pictures show nothing of importance.

You are looking at the coast side of the tooth (the concave side), your most important part is the other side of the tooth - the drive side. A proper pattern on the drive side is what makes a gear set able to stand abuse.

However, your pattern on the coast side looks a bit too close towards the inside of the ring gear. (based on what it should look like with a good pattern on the driven side)

FWIW, the axles have no bearing on the pattern. If you want to simulate a load on the gears so you get the right marking impression - turn the pinion back and forth with one hand, while putting tension on the ring gear with the other. (this takes the slack out and .012 is a bit loose btw, I'd side shim out about .005 - .007)

Last but not least, there's no such thing as a blanket statement of what kind of shim you need, you need to measure - or at the very least be prepared to take the pinion bearing in adn out a few times to get the shimming correct.

[Grape]

4 main adjustments on a ring and pinion, lash being the least important and easiest of those to adjust lol

also those gears look used and it's difficult to read a pattern on previously run gears, even if they were set up correctly the first time

[Jeremy2004GT]

If you still have the factory pinion you pulled out, measure the thickness of the head where the shim rides to the face of the pinion and then the factory shim. That's the total number you want from the 4:10 pinion head + shim to get your correct run in. That's how I always backed into it without the special tool. So take the factory head + shim figure, subtract the 4:10 pinion head thickness and hope it gives you .030.

I always set my back lash to .009-.01 before I check the patern. I also check the patern on the ring gear on both sides AND on the pinion. Not sure what axles in has to do with it. If the end caps are tight and you have the correct amount of preload, then Bob's your Uncle!

Also, I like to check the patern with grease cause it leaves a bead in the crack of the ring gear showing you how deep in it will ride as well as where the contact is.

Good luck, Bro!

-Jonny

Thanks ....I will go for .009 on the backlash and add about .001 to .002 to the pinion shim ..

[Grape]

lash isn't what you adjust to change the pattern, pinion depth is the only thing you should care about right now. Lash is only for oil clearance like bearings in an engine to let oil carry heat away from teeth, it isn't a big deal. Get the pattern right with depth, then get the preload correct. Then worry about lash

and for every .001" deeper you go, it narrows the lash by .003"

[Jonny00GT]

4 main adjustments on a ring and pinion, lash being the least important and easiest of those to adjust lol

also those gears look used and it's difficult to read a pattern on previously run gears, even if they were set up correctly the first time

Tells us about these 4. Honestly, I'm not guru...just found a good write up, used it and never had a problem with whine or breakage. I've only ever worried about getting run in, preload and back lash right. Maybe I've been lucky.

-Jonny

[Jonny00GT]

lash isn't what you adjust to change the pattern, pinion depth is the only thing you should care about right now. Lash is only for oil clearance like bearings in an engine to let oil carry heat away from teeth, it isn't a big deal. Get the pattern right with depth, then get the preload correct. Then worry about lash

and for every .001" deeper you go, it narrows the lash by .003"

Having had the first set I put in my car "clunk" like a mofo cause of .017 back lash, I'll go ahead and challenge on this! Too tight and it will whine and break shit...too loose and it will beat a nasty patern into the set...and break shit.

-Jonny

[Jeremy2004GT]

lash isn't what you adjust to change the pattern, pinion depth is the only thing you should care about right now. Lash is only for oil clearance like bearings in an engine to let oil carry heat away from teeth, it isn't a big deal. Get the pattern right with depth, then get the preload correct. Then worry about lash

and for every .001" deeper you go, it narrows the lash by .003"

so i need to -about .001 to.003 to bring the patten center than close to the heel..