Nice roll cage article

[Mach1]

Found this the other day and thought I would share. I like how they tied the cage into the A, B pillars and the roof.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/index.php?page=article96.html

[turbostang]

That's some pretty nice work. The front head bar is kinda wierd though.. kinda too far back?

[90GT50]

Pretty cool, I like how they could just drop it down to weld it completely, great idea.

[Mach1]

Pretty cool, I like how they could just drop it down to weld it completely, great idea.

Yeah I called Wolfe 5 yrs ago and they gave me that little tidbit

[Mach1]

That's some pretty nice work. The front head bar is kinda wierd though.. kinda too far back?

Yeah I figure they would have taken it fwd and put the gussets on the back side, dunno?

[turbostang]

Yeah, got that from Wolfe myself - and then got with James, and he told me a different way to do it, so now it's a combo weld-move.

[Blue88Coupe]

Whats the dry ice used for?

[turbostang]

They use it to harden tar paper so it breaks up easy.... Or that's what it looks like to me.

[TENGRAM]

very artistic...

but that harness bar/s looks a little wonky to me, as does the excessive number of bends and tubes used in general.

[90GT50]

They use it to harden tar paper so it breaks up easy.... Or that's what it looks like to me.

Correct. Better than heat and scrape.

[JamesB]

I no rally car expert by any means, but what keeps the driver from being ejected out the door in a hard crash or even a side impact in the door?

[Lason]

I no rally car expert by any means, but what keeps the driver from being ejected out the door in a hard crash or even a side impact in the door?

I was wondering that too. I believe I would have some rocker panel bars and a nice low slung X in each door way at the least.

I like how they attached the cage to the body too. That is pretty slick and makes sense why you want to do that.

[Baron Von Crowder]

There's a lot of cage fab discussion the the 24 hours of lemons forum.


One thing we do that is cut our foot plates out, make our main hoop and a pillar bends and then drop the whole thing down in the holes in the floor, weld the cage, and raise it back up. Then we slide a non cut footer plate under the cage at the floor end and weld that all up. That way the footer does not have a hole in it, and you are welding a solid plate under the cage, instead of having a hole under that spot.

Ill see if I can pull some of the do's and donts from a good thread over there and make a good post over here. I learned a shitload from our teamate who builds rock crawlers, and combined with another that builds sand and mud drag trucks about fab and cages.

[jw33]

Pretty sure that setup will have the typical X shape door bar once the stock doors are replaced.

[aggie97]

Pretty sure that setup will have the typical X shape door bar once the stock doors are replaced.

nope! Rally cars actually use a 3D "X" that protrudes out into the door cavity. I've built two cages now, our lemons corolla and a buddies CMC/2 Mustang that way. It's a neat design that sends the energy out through cage in a side impact instead of straight through the car laterally. Also gives a ton more room for the driver similar to nascar bars.

http://www.aggie97.com/CMC2/100_0300.JPG

http://www.aggie97.com/CMC2/100_0301.JPG

http://www.aggie97.com/CMC2/100_0302.JPG

http://www.aggie97.com/CMC2/100_0308.JPG You can sort of see a 3rd bar going down to the sill bar on the passenger side in this pic.


I'm also not a big fan of putting main hoops onto the floor pan, even with the vertical plates running up the sill and floor pan. I prefer locate the main hoop on the rocker sills where are FAR stronger in a roll over situation...it does make things harder, but ends up giving a stronger foundation AND a lot more room for a larger driver. example below.

http://www.aggie97.com/CMC2/100_0303.JPG