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I've been running M/T ET fronts for years but bracket racing is making a problem come to light. Sometimes you have to hit the brakes right before the line to make sure you don't break out. M/T's have almost no tread, ours are now flat spotted in a couple of places and have to be changed. At $135.00 each, I'm looking for alternatives with actual tread. We run 24x4.5x15.
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Don't worry about what you can't change.
Do the best you can with what you have.
Be honest, even if it hurts.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill -
You probably can't use a radial but here is my front runner of choice. "H" speed rated too:
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I would adjust the brake bias on the car w/ an adjustable prop valve to give more rear braking vs. going to an inferior tireComment
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Locking up brakes is ground for DQ... So you need something with no smoke...lol
All I know is a few racers told me they could read "Hoosier" (back ones) at the stripe.Some cars and a bike...
Some say... they have been raced, some a lotComment
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I have run the MT's, Hoosier, Moroso, and some VW street tires.
All of them are flat spotted by the end of the season....thats when you know you've had a good year?3x NHRA/IHRA Division 4 Champion
www.heathensracing.com
Competition Sales of Dallas
Mothers Polish and Waxes
Mickey Thompson Tires
Champion Racing Oils
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"I bleed red, white, blue, and a little bit of E85"Comment
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yeah what he said. My car stops much better after I adjusted the proportioning valve properly and put a bit more pressure on the rear brakes. I just adjusted until it felt right on the track, didn't have any way to actually read pressures.Originally posted by Cooter View PostCarl S.
2014 Ruby Red Premium GT A6, stock for now
80 Coupe, Stroked 9.2" Windsor, Yates C3, Dominator, glide, 9.60s n/a, 1.27 sixty 5.48@127.8 nitrous on radials.
9.32@128 pedaling it half track
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