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  • Rreemo
    replied
    Just noticed it's been a while since I posted back in this thread.....

    Originally posted by dblack1 View Post
    So you've got a bottom purlin, then one 7' up, and then the top purlin for attaching the sidewall metal to?

    On a 10' side wall you should have had on at 12" off the floor, then two to split the difference between that.

    Roof can be done at 4-5' spacing on the Z Purlin. I like 4' with 26ga, 5' with 24ga.
    Unfortunately not - I have angle at the floor, purlin at ~7', and then the top one...that's it. The end walls do have more support, and there are added vertical purlins around all of the windows, but I'm still disappointed that I don't have one horizontal running about height of the bottom of the windows. Here's a pic that shows it pretty well....





    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
    Concrete is 6 days old for the pad, has a bunch of hairline cracks all over, is that normal?
    I had some as well...they weren't too bad though. I watered the slab twice a day for about a week after it was poured. The epoxy on the floor covered all of mine, and I haven't seen any more since....concrete has been down about 15 months now.

    Originally posted by bobs94formula View Post
    You guys that got spray foam insulation how thick did you go with it?
    Mine is roughly 3" thick. You'll want to use closed cell foam too...it goes on thinner and is more durable than the open cell type that they use in houses. More suited for industrial type applications. I also painted mine (used an airless sprayer) within a week of it being put in, and I highly recommend that too....seemed to help seal it even more. it's still nice and bright, holding up very well. One of my friends had his shop done this past summer, he didn't want to bother with painting it afterward, and it has already darkened up a lot and turned yellow.

    I did business with this guy and was very happy - http://www.nrgstarinsulation.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike K
    replied
    Originally posted by mk5.0 View Post
    Just do it yourself its not that hard. I did my 24x30.
    I didn't know doing it yourself was a viable option. Do you recommend a product or a link for more info on what you used?

    Leave a comment:


  • mk5.0
    replied
    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
    I am in Royse City, how much is it to have someone do the floor coatings? I think it would be a good move.
    Just do it yourself its not that hard. I did my 24x30.

    Leave a comment:


  • bobs94formula
    replied
    You guys that got spray foam insulation how thick did you go with it?
    Last edited by bobs94formula; 12-20-2015, 08:05 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mach1
    replied
    I'm off 1138 in between 6 and 66

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
    I am in Royse City, how much is it to have someone do the floor coatings? I think it would be a good move.
    Where at? I pass through there everyday on my way to work in Forney

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Mach1
    replied
    I am in Royse City, how much is it to have someone do the floor coatings? I think it would be a good move.

    Leave a comment:


  • KBScobravert
    replied
    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
    40x50x6, perimeter and a single center beam, beams are prob 1x2'
    3/8 rebar, 12" centers, they didn't use risers for the rebar they just pulled it up by hand as they were pouring it, I watered it for 3 days to help with the cure, wasn't enough I guess.
    Where is your shop located?

    I agree with you that (I think) I want smooth and polished concrete throughout. So smooth that I want to be able to stain it and have it presentable like the inside of a house. As far as shop area though I think a little bit of cracking would be acceptable since I would be epoxy coating it amyways.

    Leave a comment:


  • black2002ls
    replied
    Did they use bigger rebar in the beams?
    I'm not a concrete guy by trade, so I am just thinking off of what I have seen. 3/8 is probably fine on 12" centers. IIRC code for driveway approach (6-8" thick) is 3/8 on 12" or 1/2" on 16" centers.

    I would bet what you are seeing are surface cracks. Its the "cap" cracking and everything below that is just fine.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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  • Mach1
    replied
    Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
    I see it frequently. A lot of times on our patios towards the end of construction.

    Concrete is going to do two things, get hard and crack. How big is the pad? Thickness? What kind of reinforcement did they use?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    40x50x6, perimeter and a single center beam, beams are prob 1x2'
    3/8 rebar, 12" centers, they didn't use risers for the rebar they just pulled it up by hand as they were pouring it, I watered it for 3 days to help with the cure, wasn't enough I guess.

    Leave a comment:


  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Mach1 View Post
    Concrete is 6 days old for the pad, has a bunch of hairline cracks all over, is that normal?
    I see it frequently. A lot of times on our patios towards the end of construction.

    Concrete is going to do two things, get hard and crack. How big is the pad? Thickness? What kind of reinforcement did they use?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Mach1
    replied
    Concrete is 6 days old for the pad, has a bunch of hairline cracks all over, is that normal?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mach1
    replied
    So I am getting a 14ft tall 40x50 building, I beams in the front middle and rear, bottom angle, 2 horizontal girts at 4ft and 9ft, girts are 8" 14g Cee, roof perlins are same spec, they were going to do 5' centers I opted for 4' centers on the roof. Panels are 26g.

    Leave a comment:


  • fordracing19
    replied
    Bottom is angle iron I think.

    Leave a comment:


  • dblack1
    replied
    Originally posted by Rreemo View Post
    I've got 10' side walls and a 14' roof peak.
    So you've got a bottom purlin, then one 7' up, and then the top purlin for attaching the sidewall metal to?

    On a 10' side wall you should have had on at 12" off the floor, then two to split the difference between that.

    Roof can be done at 4-5' spacing on the Z Purlin. I like 4' with 26ga, 5' with 24ga.

    Leave a comment:

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