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The paper came off easly cause no exhaust fanin bathroom. If i primer over the glue i am going to roll on the texture mudd on the wall and then use brush to texture. I have a scortcher and downey fab. But its also gunky on the drywall paper.
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You can use a steamer to remove wall paper. Score and steam, and the adhesive will come off with it. Wagner makes a steamer.
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They make tools for removing wallpaper, i have a few pair. they also sell some chemicals that you spray on, wait 5, then start scraping. I've also heard Downy fabric softner will work the same as whatever the chemical is. Don't try and paint over the adhesive, it will look tacky as hell and can cause problems with adhesion.
If you'll pay shipping, i'll send you a scoring tool and a scraping tool. Can't imagine it would be more than a couple bucks. The tools are ~$20/ea
These are the tools i have
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While in the process of the stain, we are getting new counter top and now dam the luck removing painted wallpaper. Now im trying to decide to primer over the adhesive left from the wallpaper or spend the time to try and remove it all.
Anyone need 4'×6' mirrors. Sweet to hang on the ceiling.
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Removing paint is a s.o.b. good thing im not doing that. Old got it under control.
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Originally posted by black50 View Postwe used java gel stain on the kitchen remodel...Looks great and its very easy to use...
Make sure you cover it up with the gel topcoat.
Just went over to WoodCraft store and got some satin top coat.
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we used java gel stain on the kitchen remodel...Looks great and its very easy to use...
Make sure you cover it up with the gel topcoat.
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Originally posted by lincolnboy View PostGuess you were not invited to the party like some on here were.
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Originally posted by DON SVO View PostI used the gel stain on a foot stool and our mantle, both came out looking great. The foot stool gets some use and it is holding up well. Make sure you prep like you would with regular stain.
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I used the gel stain on a foot stool and our mantle, both came out looking great. The foot stool gets some use and it is holding up well. Make sure you prep like you would with regular stain.
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Originally posted by mstng86 View PostWe used it on our bathroom cabinets last month. They were that light oak wood look that's common right now. I lightly sanded with a fine block and then used old socks to apply. Apply it even and let it dry a day or so between coats. It's pretty damn easy. Almost easy enough for me to tackle the kitchen cabinets.
We used the java as well, but a brand my wife found on line that came highly recommended.
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Originally posted by Magnus View PostMy god. . . . someone married you?
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We used it on our bathroom cabinets last month. They were that light oak wood look that's common right now. I lightly sanded with a fine block and then used old socks to apply. Apply it even and let it dry a day or so between coats. It's pretty damn easy. Almost easy enough for me to tackle the kitchen cabinets.
We used the java as well, but a brand my wife found on line that came highly recommended.
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It is a perfectly good product. It soaks into the wood the same way, it just doesn't run.
That isn't how General Finishes suggests it to be used. If you use it the way it says to on the can you are supposed to apply it, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe it off before it drys. If you are staining pine or other light wood and expect a truly dark finish you will have to let it dry on there damn near like paint like you were told. Might as well paint it at that point (from personal experience) but it will turn out fine.
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