Originally posted by fordracing19
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Laminate Wood Flooring
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Looks good man. I'm planning on laying the new flooring today. Still trying to figure out how I'm going to address the transition between the tile in the hallway to the new flooring because they are uneven surfaces. Was looking for a wood looking reducer to match the floors but haven't had any luck yet. I can order it from Home Depot but will take almost 2 weeks to arrive.
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They make (and Home Depot carries) transitions specifically for that. They're approximately $20 for an 8' setup.Originally posted by Mike69 View PostLooks good man. I'm planning on laying the new flooring today. Still trying to figure out how I'm going to address the transition between the tile in the hallway to the new flooring because they are uneven surfaces. Was looking for a wood looking reducer to match the floors but haven't had any luck yet. I can order it from Home Depot but will take almost 2 weeks to arrive.
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In my last house, I bought my hardwood from Floor Décor in Plano. It was 10mm with a lifetime warranty, I'm wanting to do my living room and bedroom, I floated the last house but I want to glue down this time around has anyone seen good prices other than the box stores? 1/2 x 5 is what I'm wanting now.Originally posted by SilverbackLook all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.
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Found the transition piece I need. Issue I'm having is keeping the joints fully seated together as in laying the planks. When I tap them in on one end somewhere down on one of the other planks it will separate just a tad and can't get it back fully seated without pulling up the planks I just laid down. It's driving me crazy.
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Each plank should seat in the grooves with no issues of coming up. Slide the plank in the groove at a 45 degree angle then push down and when you finish one, grab the rubber mallet and the rubber block and tap it so that it gets snug against the finished row of planks.Originally posted by Mike69 View PostFound the transition piece I need. Issue I'm having is keeping the joints fully seated together as in laying the planks. When I tap them in on one end somewhere down on one of the other planks it will separate just a tad and can't get it back fully seated without pulling up the planks I just laid down. It's driving me crazy.
You know whats awesome, is when you start the dishwasher before going to bed and wake up to 3 rows; each having about 5 to 6 pieces warped from the dishwasher leaking...I had to skip work today, figure out why the dishwasher was leaking, fix it, move it out of the kitchen, move the stove, and move the fridge. Remove the trim and luckily I didnt have to remove the entire kitchen trim, and pull all the pieces up and replace them with the 2 boxes i had saved. What a damn day...
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when you say vinyl planks, you mean the tongue and groove laminate stuff or the sticky ones that you apply to the ground?Originally posted by fordracing19 View PostHere is my work office we painted and put the vinyl planks in.
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god bless.It is easier to build strong children than to repair broken men -Frederick Douglass
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Well got about 95% of the floor down. My walls weren't really squared, have some spots that were bowled out a little which made for more than 1/4" expansion gaps. Have up to 1/2" expansion gaps in some areas. What is the best molding to put down to cover the 1/4" - 1/2" gaps?
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Most people typically put 1/4 round down after the baseboards go down.Originally posted by Mike69 View PostWell got about 95% of the floor down. My walls weren't really squared, have some spots that were bowled out a little which made for more than 1/4" expansion gaps. Have up to 1/2" expansion gaps in some areas. What is the best molding to put down to cover the 1/4" - 1/2" gaps?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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Did you leave the baseboards down? You should get about 3/4" of coverage from base and 1/4round. If the combo doesn't cover the gaps. If you are left with 1/8" or less. You can shim the baseboards. I can see a need for this where the wall isn't conpletely straight.Originally posted by Mike69 View PostWill 1/4 round be enough to cover up the 1/2" gaps I have in some areas?
Visually it is most apparent at the baseboard due to the drastic difference in the white trim and wall color. You can shim the baseboards slightly to make it less apparent, caulk the gap and paint.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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I left the baseboards on and was hoping to use some sort of shoe molding or quarter round molding to cover the gap.Originally posted by black2002ls View PostDid you leave the baseboards down? You should get about 3/4" of coverage from base and 1/4round. If the combo doesn't cover the gaps. If you are left with 1/8" or less. You can shim the baseboards. I can see a need for this where the wall isn't conpletely straight.
Visually it is most apparent at the baseboard due to the drastic difference in the white trim and wall color. You can shim the baseboards slightly to make it less apparent, caulk the gap and paint.
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Should have pulled the base! It helps you get it closer to the bottom plate. You can get different sizes of 1/4 round. You may just have to go to a thicker trim. How tall are the baseboards
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TapatalkOriginally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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