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And it begins...2003 S-10 transformation

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  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    The "Truck/Auto" paint is normally lacquer based. You have to pay attention to what you get because it will fade quickly and not hold up.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    It is what I used on my model cars before I got a decent air brush. Overall I am happy with it. For a $60 paint job. Like I mentioned before, paint is pretty well effed over most of the truck

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
    You can always cut it again and spray some more clear on. What type did you use? I used duplicolor enamle and its plenty shiny and tough.
    I am not sure. What ever the rattle can stuff is at vato zone.

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  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    You can always cut it again and spray some more clear on. What type did you use? I used duplicolor enamle and its plenty shiny and tough.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    A guy at work brought me a cheap buffing pad (wool cover and foam pad). I finally figured, what the hell, lets stick with the budget repair theme. I broke out my 1000 & 1500 grit paper and knocked the clear down. I followed with some turtle wax rubbing compound and scratch remover. I didn't buy a buffer, I. Am using my cordless drill. So far I am prety surprised with the results. No pics as I finished up with poor light. Still some work to do to get an even shine. Once I get the haze worked out I will hit it with a polishing compound.

    This may not have the longevity of a professional or "proper" paint repair. It ws a good learning experience.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    I have read some good reviews on the harbor freight DA buffers. At 59.99 + tax would I be better off getting the porter cable 7424xp?

    I sprayed 3 coats of dupliclear, wondering if I should put another 3-4 coats on it before I cut and buff it.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
    Cut and buff, I bet it'll be hard to tell
    That's my plan, I need to pick up a buffer and pads. There is a definitive line where I masked it off. I didn't think to float the paint out to the line so that it wasn't a hard edge, lessons learned

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  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    Cut and buff, I bet it'll be hard to tell

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
    Nice looking repair, leaves you plenty o cash for the explorer 8.8 I have . Kudos to you for tackling it yourself and being able to pocket a few bucks.
    Haha, everyone is lined up. I am swapping suspension with shaun next weekend. It will be a bit on the 8.8

    As for doing it myself. I always wanted to try my hand at body work and paint. I just wish I had a compressor to do it riht and use better materials

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  • shumpertdavid
    replied
    Nice looking repair, leaves you plenty o cash for the explorer 8.8 I have . Kudos to you for tackling it yourself and being able to pocket a few bucks.

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  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    Time to lower it now

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    After smoothing it out with the hammer and dolly I spent about 4 hrs with body filler and hammering out high spots this is what I was left with





    Paint was done with Duplicolor spray paints. I don't have a compressor to spray it properly. I think after some clear and buffing it, it will be fine.

    Insurance cut me a check for $1500, so far I am OOP $60. Will probably be $200-250 after I pick up a buffer and supplies


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  • black2002ls
    replied
    About 2 weeks ago, I came back from work and found that someone performed a parking mod to my truck. One of the city inspectors backed into the passenger rear corner of the truck.



    It took about a week and a half for his insurance to pay on the claim, $1500. My original plan was to replace the bed. After talking to my neighbor, he let me borrow his hammer and dolly set, as well as his crow bar. Here was the result before the hammer and dolly and then filler



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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
    I went with a Double Din in my dodge to get a full screen and utilize a back up camera with out a screen constantly having to be opened when I wish to use the camera to connect to trailers. The truck is factory 1.5 Din so it took some trimming, a lot of patience, and numerous test fits to get a clean an install as possible. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, I had to make a couple little filler pieces to epoxy to the bezel to fill each side. Crappy cell pics and bad lighting makes it look like it has a lot of gaps, but everything fits tight and symmetrical.
    Looks good. I prefer to stick with factory equipment. It may have fewer features, but they tend to be less flashy and stick out less. I have had my system stolen before, I vowed to stick with factory HU's. That, and my goal for this is to keep it looking as factory as possible. I took care of the fit issue. I had to clearance the dash a bit to clear the thicker radio face. Now to just get the VIN cleared out of the dang thing.

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  • shumpertdavid
    replied
    I went with a Double Din in my dodge to get a full screen and utilize a back up camera with out a screen constantly having to be opened when I wish to use the camera to connect to trailers. The truck is factory 1.5 Din so it took some trimming, a lot of patience, and numerous test fits to get a clean an install as possible. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, I had to make a couple little filler pieces to epoxy to the bezel to fill each side. Crappy cell pics and bad lighting makes it look like it has a lot of gaps, but everything fits tight and symmetrical.


    Leave a comment:

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