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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Rick Modena View Post
    Just an FYI, rattle can paint must be kept warm, keeping it atop the refrigerator usually works well or above cabinets during the cold months. Also hitting the car body with a blow dryer to warm up the plastic before painting to have a warm surface for the paint to cure to.
    I'm sure you are removing oils, grease from the body with a water based based wax and grease remover (O'reilly's) and then tack and shoot.
    Honestly, I've never cleaned a body after primer and before shooting. I will warm cold spray paint, but that is about it. Most of my contaminants come from the gun or airborne. I am terrible about cleaning my airbrush properly, and keeping enough fresh pipettes on hand to transfer.

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  • Rick Modena
    replied
    Just an FYI, rattle can paint must be kept warm, keeping it atop the refrigerator usually works well or above cabinets during the cold months. Also hitting the car body with a blow dryer to warm up the plastic before painting to have a warm surface for the paint to cure to.
    I'm sure you are removing oils, grease from the body with a water based based wax and grease remover (O'reilly's) and then tack and shoot.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by 01yz2nv View Post
    Any progress on the cobra?
    No sir. It got shelved after the paint gave me fits! The body is typically what gets me excited about a build. If I have an issue or two with that, it hits the back burner. I'm facing the same issue with my McLaren. I did pull the tape off of the cobra a couple of days ago. I'll toss it in the brake fluid when the McLaren comes out and see if I can get it going again!

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  • 01yz2nv
    replied
    Any progress on the cobra?

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Well, no sense in starting a new thread for '19.

    A few things I'm working all, all intended for the Showdown in March:

    1965 Thunderbolt. Universal white, pearl mid coat, kit flame decals on the hood, buried in clear. Trim was all covered in Bare Metal Foil before clear was applied. I'm building it kind of as a street/strip car. Open headers and slicks.



    2010 Challenger

    Painted with furious fuchsia. This will be a "slammer". The windows will be blacked out and zero chassis detail.




    This was started many years ago. I sanded the trash out of the clear coat several months ago and finally re-cleared it today. It won't have near the detail of the Denny Hamlin car, but I may add a few bits and pieces to detail it up.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    I finished this one up tonight. Still missing a few small details. Trying to clear out "almost conplete" projects. These will all be entered in contests in 2019 and then go up for sale.









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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Ruffdaddy View Post
    That's shouldn't be hard to machine, if you didnt send him a drawing or dimensions I can understand his challenge in understanding what you wanted though.

    Either way that's frustrating on both sides. Theres so little money in it for a machine shop that it makes the parts really pricey for you.
    You interested? Lol

    I ordered a bunch of parts last night for the Camaro. Hopefully I can finish up the wheels and get motivated on that thing!


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  • Ruffdaddy
    replied
    That's shouldn't be hard to machine, if you didnt send him a drawing or dimensions I can understand his challenge in understanding what you wanted though.

    Either way that's frustrating on both sides. Theres so little money in it for a machine shop that it makes the parts really pricey for you.

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Ruffdaddy View Post
    You cant print the sleeves?
    I can, however, I will never be able to get the same look as machined aluminum sleeves. To print them in aluminum would be $80 or so per piece. There are a few guys who machine these types of things, however, I've tried one of them and it was an epic fail. He machined them for the centers to mount from the rear, they are designed to blind mount from the rear. What I asked for was a sleeve with a mounting ring" at my specified offset. What I got, was nothing like I had designed the wheel to be!

    Here is the post in the 1/12th Camaro thread from the wheel debacle http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/sh...&postcount=115

    I am going to order some sleeves, see if I can clean them up, and get a decent aluminum look out of them.
    Last edited by black2002ls; 11-26-2018, 01:41 PM.

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  • Ruffdaddy
    replied
    You cant print the sleeves?

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by Ruffdaddy View Post
    Man shapeways used to be a great price but lately they've crept up (to be expected with the processes they use). I just bought a 3D printer to start making my own stuff because my costs finally reached a point that it made sense. But I dont need the ultra fine detail of an sls or sla/resin machine...so it worked out. I imagine your parts are best on a resin printer.
    Yeah, a lot of the guys that print and sell their own stuff in house are using Formlabs printers. I've got a guy in Kansas that has a Form2 or form3 and his parts are top notch. I would love to have my own printer, however, I just can't justify the cost, and my design abilities just aren't up to par to be able to design parts to print and recoup costs. I'm ordering about $100 in parts to get the wheels and brakes on the Camaro sorted out. I am still half assed looking for someone who can machine some sleeves for my wheel centers. Unfortunately, no one has been up to the task yet.

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  • Ruffdaddy
    replied
    Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
    These are kits. A lot of what I've built over the last year have been box stock builds, using only what came with the kit and using painting techniques to highlight and/or add detail. The race car was a whole different ball game. It had PE parts, resin parts, scratch built, etc.

    I use 3d printed parts on occasion, however, with Shapeways changing their pricing format, that may change in the future. My 1/12th Camaro has had the heaviest use of printed parts, simply because the aftermarket for that scale/kit is pretty sparse. I'm planning to order some parts for that build and hopefully start working on it again when work slows down.
    Man shapeways used to be a great price but lately they've crept up (to be expected with the processes they use). I just bought a 3D printer to start making my own stuff because my costs finally reached a point that it made sense. But I dont need the ultra fine detail of an sls or sla/resin machine...so it worked out. I imagine your parts are best on a resin printer.

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  • juiceweezl
    replied
    That is a sweet looking build!

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  • black2002ls
    replied
    Originally posted by BLAKE View Post
    Shoebox looks great man! Great paint.
    There are a couple of flaws. The mold lines on this old kit were pretty bad, you could see where the mold halves/parts were slightly misaligned when it was injection molded. It took quite a bit of clean up, and the trunk is still off. I didn't want to go through the trouble of re-scribing lines, so I left it as is. The clear is pretty thick at the panel lines, and I burned through the clear on the driver's side just behind the door, which required some touch up and re-clearing. It looks great for a shelf piece though! I'm sure after it makes the show circuit round in 2019, someone will scoop it up on ebay!

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  • BLAKE
    replied
    Shoebox looks great man! Great paint.

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