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  • Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post
    Finally got this thing all back together. And of course, a problem arises. Got a good battery, but the engine won't even try to start. So I do the standard screw driver test on the starter, where you bridge the two bolts. The starter spins, but doesn't seem to "kick out" to engage the flywheel.

    So I took it to autozone, and then oriellys. Had it tested at both places. They both said it was good, and that it kicked out for them. So what would cause a good starter, to not even try to work at all?

    I followed all the wires, and the grounds, and everything is hooked up. There isn't any visible reason that the starter shouldn't work. So I wanted to ask you guys, if you've ever dealt with Nissan's immobilizer. I believe its called 'NVIS' or something. With all this work being done to the car, could it have been tripped? And what methods do you take, to disable it? I tried the method they put in the manual, and that doesn't seem to have any effect. Not real sure what's going on here.
    Have you tried starting it in neutral? Trans range switch could be bad. if that doesn't work try jumping the relay to see if your problem is on the starter side or the start signal side

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    • I just wanna know how he got the head on, cams degreed, all the other shit bolted back up, with no pics or questions. But now can't figure out the starter. I didn't read the whole story because i know it is bullshit to begin with, but I want the rest of you to figure out how a "mid-level" mechanic does all that in an 18 hour period with 2 jackstands and a voltmeter.

      just for clarification justin, you're a fucking idiot.

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      • Originally posted by kdventura73 View Post
        Have you tried starting it in neutral? Trans range switch could be bad. If that doesn't work try jumping the relay to see if your problem is on the starter side, or the start signal side
        Haven't tried that. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I was under the impression that some cars required you to have it in park, before they'd let you start the engine. Found the fuse box diagram, finally wised up and checked ebay. Someone selling one posted a pic of the lid upside down so I could see the diagram lol. The fuse that blew was the "ENG MGT".



        I pulled out the "Ignition Relay" and "Starter Relay" from this fuse box, to test them. Both make the clicking noise.




        Tested the Starter Relay, and the Ignition relay, listening for the click, and then checking the ohms once they were hooked up to power. Both were good.
        WH

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        • Well thats the main computer fuse. That controls the everything.
          Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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          • Originally posted by LaserSVT View Post
            Well thats the main computer fuse. That controls the everything.
            I'll see if I can find the short tomorrow. This might be a dumb trick, but what about just bridging the fuse gap with a piece of metal? Just really quick, to see if the car will try to start? Just to find out if that ENG MGT fuse is the cause of the no start condition. Good idea, or bad idea?
            WH

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            • great idea. let us know the results.

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              • No, dont do that. Unless you like fire and blowing up expensive components.

                Take a horn fuse and throw it in there.
                Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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                • Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post
                  I'll see if I can find the short tomorrow. This might be a dumb trick, but what about just bridging the fuse gap with a piece of metal? Just really quick, to see if the car will try to start? Just to find out if that ENG MGT fuse is the cause of the no start condition. Good idea, or bad idea?
                  Use a fork, bend the tines appropriately and jam it in.

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                  • Originally posted by LaserSVT View Post
                    Take a horn fuse and throw it in there.
                    Horn fuse... well it already popped a 20 amp fuse. Unless you're referring to a mechanic's lingo that I know nothing about, which is definitely possible
                    WH

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                    • will yall stop entertaining this faggot that is not even working on this car?

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                      • if he can re-assemble an engine he knows what a fuse does.

                        this is BS, and i hate to see someone get over on yall more than myself.

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                        • OMG! Naynay is Gasser64.

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                          • Originally posted by Tremor14 View Post
                            will yall stop entertaining this faggot that is not even working on this car?
                            Are you gonna cry? You need a tissue? I guess the pics weren't enough, and yeah it makes total sense you'd never help out a relative who was on a fixed income and in need.
                            WH

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                            • you went from finding a junk yard motor and the entire top end needing to be replaced, to 12 hours later, and you can't get the starter to "kick in"? i hope you at least steam cleaned the pistons beofre you slapped the head back on and figured out how to line the cams up on your lunch break. for the first time ever.

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                              • Are you sure that you checked all the fuses? There's another set of fuses on the right side in front of the motor mount by the headlight. Its called the IPDM, pull the black cover and it should be a white box. Pull that up and make sure those fuses are good. Look for a blown 15amp fuse #51 by the cooling fan relay, its for the ECM relay and it also supplies power to the intake valve timing solenoid(p1111)
                                Last edited by kdventura73; 10-14-2015, 08:42 PM.

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