Meeting people as a mechanic.

[Tremor14]

taken with my potato 69F

[Mysticcobrakilla]

What does he want for that pile?

[Tremor14]

i think he only wants to autoX it, and it's small enough to fit in my garage with the c10, so it's kinda like bof ours, we just keep it at my house.

[DON SVO]

This job is tiring

lol

oilpan is a bitch to get back on. Tight spaces

Quit being a cunt and do man's work. Shit.

[JC316]

This job is tiring

lol

oilpan is a bitch to get back on. Tight spaces

I loathe Nissan. Did the timing chain on a 98 altima and my hands looked like they spent the day with the cenobites. Half of the damned motor has to come apart, there is no room to work and every freaking edge on that motor is razor sharp.

I've also worked on Maxima's, 300zx's, frontiers, and sentra's. All of them have the same "get the shoe horn and it will fit, fuck the mechanic" traits.

[Gasser64]

Quit being a cunt and do man's work. Shit.

Yeah I got it on there lol. Just didn't know I had to "loosen" the oil pump that I'd already put on, in order for it to just squeeze by.

I loathe Nissan. Did the timing chain on a 98 altima and my hands looked like they spent the day with the cenobites. Half of the damned motor has to come apart, there is no room to work and every freaking edge on that motor is razor sharp.

I've also worked on Maxima's, 300zx's, frontiers, and sentra's. All of them have the same "get the shoe horn and it will fit, fuck the mechanic" traits.

I agree with you. I guess they're the cheap shit for a reason. From my experience, they're certainly no honda, or toyota.

[BLAKE]

I loathe Nissan. Did the timing chain on a 98 altima and my hands looked like they spent the day with the cenobites. Half of the damned motor has to come apart, there is no room to work and every freaking edge on that motor is razor sharp.

I've also worked on Maxima's, 300zx's, frontiers, and sentra's. All of them have the same "get the shoe horn and it will fit, fuck the mechanic" traits.

FWIW, I found my 03 G35 to be nice to work on. I'm sure it helps that it's RWD.

[LaserSVT]

G35/350Z are pretty easy to work on. Pathfinders and Armadas are okay too. Its all their FWD cars that are a PITA.

[4king]

The only front wheel drive cars I dont mind working on are 4 cylinders; excluding anything made by chrysler or dodge. Thank god I don't have to deal with intrepids anymore or those Sebring and avenger sedans with the battery behind the bumper

[line-em-up]

I would have asked for the manager. That guy is going to kill someone. Actually I don't mind calling and being the bad guy if you know the store and counter guys name.

I called the store yesterday and told the manager. She didn't believe me at first. She said she would have a talk with the guy. I'm sure he will deny it since, surely, he's not that dumb. Whatever the case may be, he clearly stated it 3 times, so there was no misunderstanding.

[line-em-up]

What is this brake grease? Copper slip? Even not knowing jack shit about cars you'd have to be a real dumbass to take that advice

I'm talking about he little 2x2 packets of grease they sell for $1.50 that you put on the edges of the shoes so they won't bind/stick in the sliders.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2594078/?gclid=CMuE4O6gwMgCFYVAaQodyHIKJA

Product Details
100% pure silicone formula that can be applied to the entire brake assembly. Prevent brake squeal that can occur in metal-to-metal contact. Also increases brake-life by protecting and lubricating all critical braking components.

Eliminate brake squeal, prevent corrosion, and reduce accelerated brake wear. High temp formula won't melt under excessive brake heat.

One 4 gram packet, minimum one packet recommended per axle.

[Gasser64]

Finally got this thing all back together. And of course, a problem arises. Got a good battery, but the engine won't even try to start. So I do the standard screw driver test on the starter, where you bridge the two bolts. The starter spins, but doesn't seem to "kick out" to engage the flywheel.

So I took it to autozone, and then oriellys. Had it tested at both places. They both said it was good, and that it kicked out for them. So what would cause a good starter, to not even try to work at all?

I followed all the wires, and the grounds, and everything is hooked up. There isn't any visible reason that the starter shouldn't work. So I wanted to ask you guys, if you've ever dealt with Nissan's immobilizer. I believe its called 'NVIS' or something. With all this work being done to the car, could it have been tripped? And what methods do you take, to disable it? I tried the method they put in the manual, and that doesn't seem to have any effect. Not real sure what's going on here.

[LaserSVT]

Does the security light flash or stay lit when the car is in the "on" position?

And to test the starter you need to send power to the solenoid, not just the starter motor. The solenoid is what "kicks" the starters gear out.

[Baron Von Crowder]

Does the security light flash or stay lit when the car is in the "on" position?

And to test the starter you need to send power to the solenoid, not just the starter motor. The solenoid is what "kicks" the starters gear out.

[LaserSVT]

Making it as easy as possible to understand why the starter motor will spin but not engage the flexplate when all you do is short the main power wire on the motor. As you know if the solenoid on the starter does not get the power up signal it does not energize and does not allow the gear to slide forward on the starters shaft.